Tag: garden care

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Relocating Plants

It's Spring!!  And, it seems all I want to do is move things around in order to get ready for it!   Its almost like that spring fever some get.  You know where one wants to clean their house and rearrange their furniture.  The room feels so new, so clean.   The garden does the same thing to me.  The only difference being when relocating plants, instead of simply shoving the furniture around and being slightly horrified at the mess found below it, roots have to come up.  That's right the entire plant has to be moved and this for some can be a little scary; it doesn't have to be.

Why would one relocate plants?

I have to admit I relocate plants all the times.  Some of my babies have been moved as many as three times.  Why? The biggest reason is expanding the garden.  Take these lavender plants for example.  They were in the perfect place... last year; sitting right at the boarder of my garden.  However, after once again expanding the space they are no longer perfectly placed and have to be moved.   Other reasons could include realizing the perfect place is not perfect.  The plants are not happy.  They are either experiencing too much, or not enough sun or even water etc.  Regardless of the reason, if your on a journey to relocate your plant babies use these tips to help with the transition.

Choose the right day! 

Choosing the day is the number one thing to consider when relocating plants.  Bottom line never move plants unless you absolutely have to on an extremely hot bright sunny day.  That's right, extreme heat can add horrible stress to the plant as it tries to recover so don't move them in the heat.  The best time to move plants is either on a cool sunny in spring or my favorite an overcast cloudy day with a soft rainy occurring.  Doing this makes all the difference to ones plants.

Maintain as much of the root ball and as possible.

Some roots will be lost however savings as much as one can will ensure a fast transition to the new space.

Add Epsom salt to the new spot. 

We are not the only ones who feel relaxed in an Epsom bath.  Nope its the perfect thing to add to plants.  Just a few teaspoons mixed into the soil is perfect to help them relax through the move.  Visit my article Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!  for more details on Epsom in your garden.

Keep soil the same level as previously found.

Make note how the plant is sitting in its current space.  Dig the new hole large enough to set the plant fully in the ground and fill the soil back to the same plant height.

Water, water, water

Water should be a given; however here are a few things to help the plants establish faster.

  • Fill the entire new hole with water prior to placing the root ball into it, then fill the soil in over the water.  Yes the soil will soak it up. This helps ensure soft moist soil the now weakened roots can push through as they re-establish themselves.  Second, even if its a plant that prefers little water, provide them a bit extra over the next few weeks.  Don't drown them, ensure however the soil stays semi-moist. Again, this allows those wounded roots to easily take ownership and start to regrow.

In a strange way relocating plants successfully does give one that same feeling of walking into a new room.  Especially when completed successfully, so use these tips and move those babies as needed around that wonderful new space.

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Growing Rudbeckia

Did you know the name Rudbeckia means encouragement and motivation?  And if there is anything people may be needing right now it’s encouragement and motivation.  Growing Rudbeckia is a joy; and, I always felt their name fits perfectly.  The meaning of course just explains why one tends to feel so happy when they see them in a yard.  With all of their brilliant yellow they are almost like mini suns, shining in corners and filling up sunny spots. 

About Rudbeckia

There are around  25 different varieties of Rudbeckia; however, their most common name is black-eyed Susan or Becky’s.  Black eyed Susan’s also come in different categories with  petals that range from solid yellow, to slightly burnt orange, to extremely black or dark brown centers that spread out towards bright yellow tips.  I love having all of them all around my yard.

Rudbeckia is similar to Echinacea  in that their roots can be used in some home medicinal remedies.  I hope to look further into this as spring comes closer! If there are plans to use ones Becky’s in medicinal remedies then consider growing several spots around the garden space.  As well as planting them at different intervals.  This ensures as the roots of one plant is being harvested several others are growing in their stead.

Growing Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia can be grown by seed or by division of established plants. Division is simpler as Rudbeckia seeds again, similar to Echinacea, need winters cold to germinate.  If planting by seed sow in the fall when winter is just coming on. Doing this will ensure  enough of a cold spell to germinate well when spring arrives.

Give Becky’s plenty of sun, and well drained soil. Deadhead them to promote more flowers or to stop them from spreading. Otherwise allow the seeds to fall and they will return each season naturally.

image provided by Pinterest

Companion Planting with Rudbeckia

There are so many plants that will grow well with Rudbeckia.  Their flowers for sure bring the bees.  Therefore, just having them in the garden supports any vegetables one grows.  Some of my favorite plants to grow with Rudbeckia are:

  • Zinnias
  • Globe thistle
  • Sedum
  • Perennial hibiscus
  • Echinacea
  • Ornamental grasses
  • Dill
  • Basil
  • Oregano
  • Sunflowers
  • Strawberries
  • Squash

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Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Biting into a bright yellow ear of corn tastes just like summer; fresh, crisp and sweet.   I love sweet corn and can literally eat it like candy from the yard; so much so, I even assume when growing corn at least 30% of the yield will never make it in the house.  It’s a snack I quickly grab while working in the garden, or a quick breakfast if I’m out early.   This alone makes growing corn, sweet corn the perfect summer treat; and, like many others I simply feel growing corn in the backyard, allotment or kitchen garden cool!

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is the taste of summer because it only grows in the summer! 

Corn needs the heat; and, it needs warm soil. Seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches between 55 and 70 degrees in the morning.  Corn absorbs about 30% of its size in water.  Absorbing cold water as its swelling can lead to various diseases reducing yield or killing the plant completely.  Therefore if planning to start outside (which is best as corn has a shallow root system that does not like to be moved), ensure the last frost date has passed.  If one is in a zone where they must start their seeds indoors to achieve the right time for harvest, use organic pots that can be planted in the ground to avoid moving the babies once they have established!

If one has 65 to 90 days, they can grow corn!

According to the University of Arkansas the average days to harvest for corn runs between 65 and 95 days.  One should plan their start time based on their last frost date and how far along the plants need to be to ensure a solid harvest during the summer months.  Visit “When to Start Seeds Indoors” for more information on the best start times for seeds! 

Give corn a well draining spot and make sure the soil has lots of food and nutrients!

Corn needs well drained fertile soil and plenty of food to grow those gloriously sweet ears. Testing the soil lets one know for sure if there are serious issues to address; however,  2 steps work best  for me, to ensure the corn crop is healthy.

    1. Add fresh compost to the soil prior to planting.  Add 1 bag of compost, Black Kow Compost is my preference, to about 20 feet of garden space. A good rule of thumb is: If the ground becomes hard where the compost is mixed in, too much has been added. Compost should enhance the existing soil, not overtake it. 
    2. Mix in organic matter, i.e. used coffee grinds, leaves or dark rich topsoil if the soil is highly sandy.  

Plan to feed plants with feed once they have set at least 3 to four leaves.    Alaskan Fish Emulsion has worked wonders for my production spraying once a

Plant seeds in warm soil and within 12 inches apart

Plant seeds approximately 12 inches apart and approximately 1 ½ inches down.   Soil must be warm in the morning before planting!  Corn is wind pollinated versus bee pollinated.  This implies a few things:  1: don’t plant corn where it will be blocked from wind!  2: There should be enough corn for at least two solid side by side rows.  If only small amounts are being planted, use small squares versus long rows to ensure the corn is close enough together to achieve good pollination across plants. 

Steady water and a good fish based fertilizer does wonders

Corn needs plenty of water; without it they will struggle to produce flavorful kernels.  Water at least 1.5 inch per week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering.  A good rule of thumb is if no moisture in in the soil greater than an inch down, water. 

Companion Plants

Corn is a wonderful companion plant for many veggies; those plants that help corn grow the best are:

  • Climbing beans
  • cucumber
  • marjoram
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • squash
  • sunflowers
  • zucchini

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Growing Potatoes

French fries, waffle fries, crinkly cut fries, curly fries, baked, boiled, steamed or mashed potatoes are a staple of all of our lives.  I mean honestly would hamburgers be the same without the fry? Would gravy be the same without mashed potatoes?  There are so many things we use potatoes for.  According to the CIP at least a billion are consumed worldwide each year. On top of that potatoes are tubers, which makes them one of the easier plants to grow.  So, if you have been considering growing potatoes and it’s spring in your areas, now is the time!  

Interesting facts about the potato

Potatoes are such a large part of our food lives. What IS a potato anyway?  While we are on the topic is a potato really a vegetable?  Here are some super cool facts about this lovely plant!

  • Potatoes are actually tubers making them one of the easier plants to grow in home gardens.  They are a part of the Nightshade family of plants, which of course are known to have some very poisonous relatives! Curious enough, all parts of the potato plant actually are poisonous, EXCEPT the tubers! Which we eat as the glorious potato! 

  • In the 1890’s the US Supreme Court ruled several plants grown for the consumption of their “fruits” could legally be classified as vegetables and therefore taxed as vegetables!  This decision included the mighty potato and many other plants such as the tomato, (which is actually a berry type fruit) watermelons, lettuce, spinach, kale; stems of rhubarb, carrots, onions, garlic, turnips and other tubers like Jerusalem artichokes, etc.!  As a result, the potato is grown as a vegetable, taxed as a vegetable and is therefore legally considered, a vegetable!
  • The term “spud” for potatoes originated from the Medieval words spyd or spad which were tools used at the time as digging tools.  Of course this is the “Spade” and since spades were often used to dig potatoes, potato tubers were eventually called spud

Preparing your potato bed

Are you planning on growing potatoes? Old school farmer almanac followers will tell you, “if your dandelions are blooming your spuds should be shooting!” In other words plant them when you see those yellow flowers!  Potatoes need cooler weather, the soil needs to be 40 to germinate and they grow best in 60 to 70 degree temperatures.  If it’s too cold or wet or too hot they will not grow well.  

Before planting potatoes make sure the space selected will enable them to thrive. Potatoes need loose, well draining, slightly sandy soil with good organic matter. Those that have hard, clay soils or soil that are filled with rock would do best using raised beds or  bag containers which also work well for growing potatoes . 

All of this does not mean Potatoes are hard to grow, only that like many other plants timing and soil is essential to growing them.  For example, I’m in US Zone 7; therefore, my winters can range from too cold at times to perfect and my summers are 100% too hot.  In addition, I tend to have harder soil in places.  I will get the best results growing potatoes as a spring and fall plant and Sweet potatoes, (which want the heat) as a summer plant.  I also add a slightly sandy topsoil that contained some wood mulch in it and mix in Epsum Salt and cow manure from Black kow. 

Once your beds are ready its time to plant! So grab your spot and some soil, get that ready and and lets move on to growing potatoes!

Growing Potatoes

Planting potatoes is the easiest part of the whole process actually. There should  at least be a mention regarding the prep portion of the process for the potatoes themselves.  

First let’s discuss the ever present question, can one just use store bought potatoes?  The easy answer is yes, and I would be lying if I said I never did.  However, it’s not the best way to grow them.  Therefore, if one does use store bought make sure and choose organic.  Why though, why not?  Well the top reason is many have been sprayed and don’t reproduce as well.  Secondly,  one is never sure what kind they are.  We discussed the weather and the temperatures for potatoes to produce etc.  Potatoes in the store are not always clear as far as  their type.  Are they early producers or those that take longer to grow?  Knowing what one is growing,  especially if in a location that does not have long produce them, is paramount to a successful crop.

Prepping one’s potatoes can be as easy as dropping them in a dark location and allowing them to root.  They can also be placed in shallow jars with water and allowed to root.  Potatoes can be planted whole or cut up as long as there are eyes inclusive in the pieces.  If they are sliced up allow them a few days for the skin to harden prior to planting.  

Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep. Allow about 12 inches apart for the largest potato harvest. If limited on space and not as concerned with the size plant them around 6 inches apart.   Plant potatoes with the eyes up and cover them with about 3 to 4 inches of soil.  As they grow mound more soil around them. 

Potatoes like 1 – 2 inches of water per week, and unlike other plants prefer a deep soak in the night hours so that the soil moisture stays with them all day. This is a balancing act however, as too much water will cause your potatoes to either rot or swell.  Therefore, watch watering carefully, leaving enough water to moisten the soil but not to soak it. 

Companion plants

As with any plant there are companions that are best to plant together.  Potatoes do well when grown with:

  • Lettuce
  • Spinach
  • Scallions
  • Raddish

Plants that can enhance the flavor of your potatoes are:

  • Yarrow
  • Chamomile
  • Basil
  • Yarrow
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

According to the Spruce planting Horseradish can help potatoes become more resistant to disease. Flowers like petunias and alyssum can attract beneficial insects and tansy, coriander and catnip can help repel insects like the potato beetle.

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Growing Gourds

My  journey growing gourds started about five years ago with  ornamental gourds. I wanted to grow bottle gourds, also called birdhouse gourds and was primarily interested in them for crafts and such.

 

What I discovered was growing gourds is simply fun.   I have since come to think of gourds as the pringle of the plant world.  You know…  you can’t “grow” just one?  Once one has experienced the total coolness of a gourd vine rambling across their yard  or covering an arbor with giant, odd or gnarly looking “things” hanging down around it, they simply want to see more.

After growing the birdhouse gourd I just had to try a bushel gourd,  (a giant that can grow up to 5 feet across) which led me to the luffa gourd (because who doesn’t want free sponges) and in the coming year I would love to try the canteen, apple or dipper gourd!

What is a Gourd?

Gourds are a part of the cucurbitaceae family which holds some 965 species including the edible varieties, squash and pumpkins; and, the ornamental varieties that are non edible with hard shells. Ornamental gourds are often used for arts and crafts, fancy bowls and spoons etc.

Most plants in this family are vine like.  They also have  a range of white or yellow flowers with both male and female flowers on the same vine.

Growing Ornamental Gourds

Hard shell  ornamental gourds prefer full sun.  They can take the heat!  I have experienced growth in partial shade; however, the largest growth is obtained when grown in full sun.   Gourds are heavy eaters, they produce large fruit so ensure their soil is enriched with compost and organic matter.   (Tip:  Leaves are great for organic matter.  If heavy falling leaves exist around ones garden space,  cover the soil with them in fall and roll them into it in spring!)

  • Preference for gourds is direct sown in spring once all signs of frost has passed and the ground has warmed.
  • Some gourds can take up to 100 days to fully develop and be ready for harvest.   As such, use large starting pods to ensure minimal root damage if starting indoors due to shorter growing seasons.
  • Plan for space.   Most gourds have long heavy vines. They can be allowed to ramble across the ground or grown vertical with arbors or tepees, etc.  Personal preference is to grow vertically.  This enables ease of harvest and identification of pests or fungus etc.
  • Plant seeds  1- 2 inches deep.  If planting in rows plant in groups of 3 – 5 seeds, five feet apart.   Keep the strongest 2-3 plants in each group.
  • If seeding around arbors plant 2 – 4 seeds on each side of the arbor.
  • Keep soil moist during germination and moderately moist as the plants matures.
  • Gourds can successfully be grown in containers.  Two of my favorite container gardeners on Instagram are Cheryl of My Brentwood Garden and The Frenchie Gardener give them a visit for all kinds of container garden tips!

Caring for Gourds

Gourds are relatively simple to care for once they have established.  Their vines grow quick and strong leaving one of the largest challenges their maintenance.   Clip the vines as needed to ensure they don’t crawl into or around other plants.

Gourds are susceptible to the Squash Vine Borer as well as other insects and fungi that target the cucurbitaceae family.  I have had very good luck following these simple feeding steps:

  • Spray gourds semi-monthly with a mix of: fish emulsion  (2 tbs) dish soap (2 tsp) mixed with 1 gallon of water.
  • Monthly:

Companion plants for Gourds

Gourds, like many other plants, thrive when paired with specific plants, also known as companion plants.   Some of the basic companion plants for gourds are:

  • Marigolds
  • Dill
  • Radish
  • Tansy
  • Broccoli
  • Beans
  • Corn

 

 

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Gardening Around the World – Episode 2 – Sharpen Your Spades

Meet Richard Chivers, or as I like to call him Spades, of “Sharpen your Spades” on Instagram.  Spades was one of the first gardeners I followed over a year ago when I first discovered the #gardenersofinstagram family.    He is an avid gardener from Wales, the island of Great Britain, just to the west of England. Over the last year I have watched Spades garden page grow to over 23K followers!  If one takes a moment to meander his page, there is no doubt why he is so popular.   Not only are his photographs beautiful, they are a sea of calm; and the joy Spades has found in gardening is apparent. Join me on this second episode of Gardening Around the World  where I am more than happy to have the chance to interview and share Richards joy, along with a bit of his personal insight into the passion he finds in a garden.

Oma: So Spades, tell us a bit about what drew you to Gardening, when did you start?

Spades: Food actually! I’ve always enjoyed cooking and in 2007, almost by accident, I grew some tomatoes in a pot in the back garden. When I harvested the fruit later that year I was amazed by the taste and quality. It demonstrated to me that away from the supermarket shelves, there are so many varieties of fruit and vegetables available if you grow your own. I became hooked quite quickly.

Oma: Oh you are totally right about that! I wonder how many of us did that same thing? Accidentally realize how good fresh really is I mean. Because, that’s almost exactly what happened to me! My kids at the time were very little and they had spit some cantaloupe seeds in our yard. When they came up I realized what they were and for fun let them grow right there in the grass in the backyard. It was fun and the best cantaloup I ever had; I was hooked! I had grown up watching my great grandparents garden but I wanted to try more! 

Oma: Where is your garden at?  Your yard, an allotment or a local coop?  

Spades: I have an allotment garden a few minutes away from my house. Allotments are (usually) areas of land owned by the local authority that are divided into plots (gardens) for people to rent and grow their own fruit and vegetables. They are fantastic resources and often very generous in size.

Oma: I find it so fascinating that some are so dedicated that they make the time needed to actually go to another place to garden!! Why? Because gardening takes time, and life is busy. To not be able to walk out to my yard and be right there is foreign to me and I find It so wonderful that so many do that.

Oma: Tell us about your journey to get to your space?  How long does it take you? Do you drive or ride a train etc? 

Spades: Luckily my allotment is a 10 minute walk away. If I drive, which I often do when I have plants and tools to take with me, I can be there in 2 minutes. I agree that it’s much more beneficial to have the garden right outside your house; and, I’d love to have that. However,  often in cities, garden space comes at a premium which is why I believe allotments are so important to people and their communities and especially in cities and urban areas.

Oma: This is so true.  I didn’t even know about allotments before I started my Instagram journey and reading up on gardening around the world.  One thing that learning so much about other people who garden has taught me is how blessed all of us are to have spaces to garden especially those that use allotments or coops.  Gardening still takes time!

Oma: How do you make the time to garden;  how have you overcome your challenges in order to be successful with your allotment space?

Spades: I think whatever your circumstances, making time to garden is important. I work full time and I try to ensure I manage the time I get to spend at the allotment as best I possibly can. This means I always have a plan of what I want to achieve at the allotment each visit. I have two mini greenhouses in the garden at home and I grow nearly all of my crops in soil blocks, trays and plastic pots there. This enables me to manage the seedlings close to home and I simply transport them to the allotment when they are ready to be planted out in the ground.  I also try to garden in the most efficient way. Time is precious and I want to make it easy and enjoyable to garden.

One way I’ve done this is through no-dig gardening. I’ve learned a lot from Charles Dowding who is a pioneer in no-dig gardening here in the UK. Not only is No-dig better for the soil and therefore the plants, it saves heaps of time in the autumn and winter months which is traditionally the time gardeners break their backs digging the soil over.

Oma: What is the thing you enjoy most about gardening? Spades: Gosh that’s a hard question.   Oma: Kinda is right??

Spades: It’s more than one thing. Growing food is incredibly rewarding. To nurture a plant from seed to the point that it provides its fruit is a wonderful feeling. It feels worthwhile. Gardening also provides a direct connection with nature and the environment. Something I feel modern society has lost. I know that simply being in the garden is all that I need to relieve stress and to improve my wellbeing.

Oma: Yes, I sometimes wonder what it would be like if we all once again had a Kitchen Garden.  That space right outside our kitchen that held our herbs and spices and vegetables.  From a stress perspective, I think I hear that the most, the stress relief I mean. I used to work in a high impact high stress position.  Hours of upwards of 60-70 a week was an often occurrence.  Being the weekend gardening warrior was sometimes the only thing that kept my sanity!  Gardening is not always easy though.  

Oma: What is the thing you like the least about gardening?  Spades: Not having as much time as I would like to do it!

Oma: Hahaha yes! We could all use more garden time…. Hey…. that sounds like a sign I need to paint??  

Oma: What do you feel is one of the biggest challenges of gardening in your area; and what do you do to overcome this challenge?

Spades:  I live in Wales, which is probably the wettest area in the UK. We get a lot of rain. This clearly has benefits and it’s rare for us to suffer in a dry spell (although the climate emergency has clearly changed that as our recent summers have shown) but it can also be challenging.

I use raised beds and no-dig to ensure the soil I grow in is in the best possible health and structure. The allotments can often flood – especially in winter, but raising beds and not digging or tilling the soil has really made a difference on my plot.

Oma: What is your favorite plant to grow and why?  

Spades: That’s difficult too! I like everything I grow which is why I choose to grow it. In terms of vegetables I might pick Beetroot and Tomatoes. I enjoy them both and the beets are relatively easy to grow and the tomatoes are just an abundance – you can’t beat the flavour of both when they are home grown and fresh.

Oma: There is just something about the tomato right? Seeing those large beautiful red or orange or green babies; there is so much you can do with them. The funny thing Is they are actually not the easiest plants to grow in all areas but people still go for them. Perhaps that adds to the allure, conquering the challenge and all!  Having grown that perfect tomato! 

Oma: Do you want to try and grow something new this next season; if yes what?

Spades: I think it’s important to grow something new each year. Not necessarily a new crop but perhaps a different variety of a crop you enjoy eating. It’s one of the best things about growing your own food, the varieties are incredible. This year will be some new pepper varieties and I try to pick a new pumpkin or winter squash to grow each year too

Oma: I love that, yes!! Variety is one of the reasons I love painting plants so much. Not only are they beautiful, there are so many different kinds of the same plant.  Squash for example, or cabbages or lettuce. I can paint them over and over again and always paint something new.  Which makes your statement so right on; there is always something to grow and still be within the range of what one likes to eat.  

Oma: Who inspires you? If you could meet any gardener you wanted to, who would it be and why?

Spades: I have a few I’d like to meet who have inspired my gardening. I’ve been lucky to meet Charles Dowding twice in the last few years – his books have 

been my number one source for growing vegetables on the allotment. I would love to meet Joy Larkcom who I feel like I know through her fantastic books on the subject and I’d really like to meet Eliot Coleman (New Organic Grower).

Oma: Spades, thank you so much for taking the time to talk to a gardener such as me.  We gardeners learn so much simply being around  or talking to those that love gardening. 

For all of you garden lovers out there give Spades a shout out, tell him Oma says hi and visit his blog  at sharpenyourspades.com  or Instagram: @sharpenyourspades and  Twitter: @spadesharp

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Tips for Germinating Peppers

Growing peppers can sometimes be a royal pain.  Peppers tend to have some very specific things that need to be done to ensure a clear path to peppery goodness.They can be very sensitive when small and highly subject to root rot if the soil is too moist or too cold. This leads at times to difficult germination.    As such,  here are a few quick tips for germinating peppers!

Use a Heat mat for germination

Peppers, even most of the sweet or bell peppers, need to have at least a 70° to 85° degree soil temperature to germinate.  I stubbornly refused to get one for years.  I do have peppers every year so it’s not a complete loss to go without a mat. However, I struggled with germination on many hot peppers simply because of their strict need for heated soil.  Once a mat was obtained results in the number of plants actually germinating improved right away!  Vivosun has some very good options for mats. They are also terribly simple to use so highly recommend this gem.   

 

Use Peat pods or well draining soil to germinate seeds

Peppers tend to like moist but not wet soil.  This is another area I was a bit stubborn about as I love a soil mix I make myself.  This self made mix was perfect for older mature plants however, it was not the best for germinating peppers.  Using a heavy soil can lead to no germination, or germination followed by struggling plants due to root rot.   Peat pods are simple to find and often come in bags of 50 – 200 or more. I prefer the Jiffy brand!

Keep  seeds in an area that allows for humidity while germinating

Peppers need humidity for germination far more than many other seeds grown in one’s garden.  As such, make sure and utilize a seed starting dome planter or a greenhouse to control humidity.

Move quickly into a larger pot once germinated and place them in good lighting 

Once the seeds have germinated move them off the heat mat, and place them in a larger pot.  One where they can spend at least the next 60 days.  During this mid life,  (where they are not in the ground but still inside) continue to use high draining soil.

 

 

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When to Start Seeds Indoors – Timing is Everything!

“When do I start my seeds?” 

It’s not surprising that this is the question I get the most.  After all, there are so many plants, so many time zones, and so many ways to start a seed.  Many new timers are confused about when to start, how to start or what to start when it comes to seeds for their garden. This is also not surprising as growing plants from seeds is one of the most natural things a gardener can do!  The truth is this a great question! Why? Because, for most time zones there are only so many growing days in the season!  One does not want to use the bulk of that time growing their plant, they want to use the bulk of that time harvesting food.    Starting seeds indoors, helps ensure this can occur as quickly as possible; and, plants are as strong as can be once they are transplanted outside!   

Like several things it often comes down to a few good tips.  For me, after three decades of trying, failing, trying and succeeding, those few quick tips have come down to the three “T’s,” Timing, Tools, and Tending!  This article will focus on Timing and one of the best ways I have found to determine when it’s time to start ones seeds! 

“Is there a Simpler Way”

Beleive it or not knowing when to start your seeds can be quite simple; and, many an issue can be resolved by first gathering three bits of information:

1.  Last Frost Date:  There is usually a spring frost before spring is consistently warm. This last spring frost is known as the “Last Frost Date.” The date in ones area where the last of the cold hits, and the consistent warmth of spring actually starts.   There are multiple places on the web to find out where your last frost date is.  My favorite is the  Farmers Almanac First and Last Frost Dates  calander!   In most cases, this is the date you can consider starting to plant outdoors!

2.  Time to Harvest: Time to harvest is litterally the time it takes a plant to actually produce fruit! The grwoth time before your eating your produce!  The “Time to Harvest” is most often found on the front or back of a seed packet and can range anywhere from 25 days up to a much as 100 days.  

3. Growth Time before Transplanting:  The time one wants their plants to have to grow prior to planting them outside.   A good range is 30% to 50% of the total “Time to Harvest (2).”   The larger percentage of course meaning the plants will be indoors longer.

“Ok so now what?”

So  you know your “Last Frost Date”, your “Time to Harvest” and the “Growth Time before Transplanting” now what? Utilize the “Growth Time before Transplanting” and your “Last Frost Date” to back into the seed start date.   

For example: Hot Peppers can take up to 100 days before the ‘Time to Harvest” is reached.  Targeting 50% of that means the “Growth time before Transplanting” is approximatly 50 days.  Lets look at that example using my zones!

    1. Last Frost Date in My Zone:  April 1 
    2. Time to Harvest for Hot Peppers: 100 Days  
    3. Growth Time Before Planting Outside:  50 Days (50% of Time to Harvest)
    4. Date to start seeds: February 11 
  • Seeds would need to be started by February 11th to allow for a “Growth Time before Transplanting” of at lease 50 days (50% of the “Time to Harvest”)  by the time I reached my “Last Frost Date”!   

There you Go! Now get out there and grow some seeds!

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Knowing When to Harvest Your Garlic

Knowing  when to harvest your garlic can sometimes be a confusing process. After all, garlic sits below the ground.  One may feel the only clues they really have are the leaves. This is true to a point, in reality however, everything from the leaves, the stems, the soil and the bulbs themselves can all offer clues that help determine when to harvest ones garlic.

The Leaves Of the Garlic Plant

A garlic plants leaves really are the first clue to recognizing garlic has matured. Not all of the leaves mind you, the lower leaves!

Look closely at the leaves lowest to the ground. The very bottom set of leaves will often start to yellow and turn brown around the time your garlic is ready. This could also mean that your garlic needs a little water or is simply shedding; as such it’s not the only sign you should look for, it’s a clue!  

Width of the Stalks

The size of the garlic stalk is a direct correlation to the size of the garlic below the ground. Simply stated as ones garlic matures the stalk also grows in thickness and width.

While looking at the lower leaves consider the size of the stalks. Are the stalks thin or have they started to widen up? As the stalks start to reach 1/2 inch to an inch around the bulbs below the ground should have expanded at least two to three times that size.  Small thin stalks indicate the bulbs may not be ready.

The Soil Around the Garlic

Depending on how deeply the garlic was buried one can often see the dirt start to mound up around the base of the garlic stalk. This naturally  occurs as the bulbs starts to expand below the ground. While looking at your leaves and the size of your stalks look at the soil! Is there mounding or cracking around the stalk? If the other two steps are present, and there is no dirt movement, continue with the next step anyway.

The Actual Garlic Bulbs

One may wonder how the actual garlic cloves can help you determine if they’re ready as they sit below the dirt.  However, if one is seeing all three of the above clues, or at least two of the three clues above the ground they should check below ground and look at a sample of the garlic itself. The trick is to do this in a way that will enable the garlic to continue to grow if it is not yet ready.

Gently remove the dirt from around the stalk being careful not to injure the garlic or harm any of the roots.  It’s important to leave the roots whole. Remove enough soil to enable the bulbs and the formation of the individual garlic cloves to show.

    • Garlic that still has a small head and very little cloves is not ready; recover the bulbs and they will continue to grow! Check back in another week or so!
    • Garlic that is large and well formed is ready!
    • Gently remove the garlic roots and all from the soil.  Remove any large soil clumps however, do not wash them! It’s time to cure your prize.

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