Tag: seeds

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Growing Potatoes

French fries, waffle fries, crinkly cut fries, curly fries, baked, boiled, steamed or mashed potatoes are a staple of all of our lives.  I mean honestly would hamburgers be the same without the fry? Would gravy be the same without mashed potatoes?  There are so many things we use potatoes for.  According to the CIP at least a billion are consumed worldwide each year. On top of that potatoes are tubers, which makes them one of the easier plants to grow.  So, if you have been considering growing potatoes and it’s spring in your areas, now is the time!  

Interesting facts about the potato

Potatoes are such a large part of our food lives. What IS a potato anyway?  While we are on the topic is a potato really a vegetable?  Here are some super cool facts about this lovely plant!

  • Potatoes are actually tubers making them one of the easier plants to grow in home gardens.  They are a part of the Nightshade family of plants, which of course are known to have some very poisonous relatives! Curious enough, all parts of the potato plant actually are poisonous, EXCEPT the tubers! Which we eat as the glorious potato! 

  • In the 1890’s the US Supreme Court ruled several plants grown for the consumption of their “fruits” could legally be classified as vegetables and therefore taxed as vegetables!  This decision included the mighty potato and many other plants such as the tomato, (which is actually a berry type fruit) watermelons, lettuce, spinach, kale; stems of rhubarb, carrots, onions, garlic, turnips and other tubers like Jerusalem artichokes, etc.!  As a result, the potato is grown as a vegetable, taxed as a vegetable and is therefore legally considered, a vegetable!
  • The term “spud” for potatoes originated from the Medieval words spyd or spad which were tools used at the time as digging tools.  Of course this is the “Spade” and since spades were often used to dig potatoes, potato tubers were eventually called spud

Preparing your potato bed

Are you planning on growing potatoes? Old school farmer almanac followers will tell you, “if your dandelions are blooming your spuds should be shooting!” In other words plant them when you see those yellow flowers!  Potatoes need cooler weather, the soil needs to be 40 to germinate and they grow best in 60 to 70 degree temperatures.  If it’s too cold or wet or too hot they will not grow well.  

Before planting potatoes make sure the space selected will enable them to thrive. Potatoes need loose, well draining, slightly sandy soil with good organic matter. Those that have hard, clay soils or soil that are filled with rock would do best using raised beds or  bag containers which also work well for growing potatoes . 

All of this does not mean Potatoes are hard to grow, only that like many other plants timing and soil is essential to growing them.  For example, I’m in US Zone 7; therefore, my winters can range from too cold at times to perfect and my summers are 100% too hot.  In addition, I tend to have harder soil in places.  I will get the best results growing potatoes as a spring and fall plant and Sweet potatoes, (which want the heat) as a summer plant.  I also add a slightly sandy topsoil that contained some wood mulch in it and mix in Epsum Salt and cow manure from Black kow. 

Once your beds are ready its time to plant! So grab your spot and some soil, get that ready and and lets move on to growing potatoes!

Growing Potatoes

Planting potatoes is the easiest part of the whole process actually. There should  at least be a mention regarding the prep portion of the process for the potatoes themselves.  

First let’s discuss the ever present question, can one just use store bought potatoes?  The easy answer is yes, and I would be lying if I said I never did.  However, it’s not the best way to grow them.  Therefore, if one does use store bought make sure and choose organic.  Why though, why not?  Well the top reason is many have been sprayed and don’t reproduce as well.  Secondly,  one is never sure what kind they are.  We discussed the weather and the temperatures for potatoes to produce etc.  Potatoes in the store are not always clear as far as  their type.  Are they early producers or those that take longer to grow?  Knowing what one is growing,  especially if in a location that does not have long produce them, is paramount to a successful crop.

Prepping one’s potatoes can be as easy as dropping them in a dark location and allowing them to root.  They can also be placed in shallow jars with water and allowed to root.  Potatoes can be planted whole or cut up as long as there are eyes inclusive in the pieces.  If they are sliced up allow them a few days for the skin to harden prior to planting.  

Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep. Allow about 12 inches apart for the largest potato harvest. If limited on space and not as concerned with the size plant them around 6 inches apart.   Plant potatoes with the eyes up and cover them with about 3 to 4 inches of soil.  As they grow mound more soil around them. 

Potatoes like 1 – 2 inches of water per week, and unlike other plants prefer a deep soak in the night hours so that the soil moisture stays with them all day. This is a balancing act however, as too much water will cause your potatoes to either rot or swell.  Therefore, watch watering carefully, leaving enough water to moisten the soil but not to soak it. 

Companion plants

As with any plant there are companions that are best to plant together.  Potatoes do well when grown with:

  • Lettuce
  • Spinach
  • Scallions
  • Raddish

Plants that can enhance the flavor of your potatoes are:

  • Yarrow
  • Chamomile
  • Basil
  • Yarrow
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

According to the Spruce planting Horseradish can help potatoes become more resistant to disease. Flowers like petunias and alyssum can attract beneficial insects and tansy, coriander and catnip can help repel insects like the potato beetle.

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Tips for Germinating Peppers

Growing peppers can sometimes be a royal pain.  Peppers tend to have some very specific things that need to be done to ensure a clear path to peppery goodness.They can be very sensitive when small and highly subject to root rot if the soil is too moist or too cold. This leads at times to difficult germination.    As such,  here are a few quick tips for germinating peppers!

Use a Heat mat for germination

Peppers, even most of the sweet or bell peppers, need to have at least a 70° to 85° degree soil temperature to germinate.  I stubbornly refused to get one for years.  I do have peppers every year so it’s not a complete loss to go without a mat. However, I struggled with germination on many hot peppers simply because of their strict need for heated soil.  Once a mat was obtained results in the number of plants actually germinating improved right away!  Vivosun has some very good options for mats. They are also terribly simple to use so highly recommend this gem.   

 

Use Peat pods or well draining soil to germinate seeds

Peppers tend to like moist but not wet soil.  This is another area I was a bit stubborn about as I love a soil mix I make myself.  This self made mix was perfect for older mature plants however, it was not the best for germinating peppers.  Using a heavy soil can lead to no germination, or germination followed by struggling plants due to root rot.   Peat pods are simple to find and often come in bags of 50 – 200 or more. I prefer the Jiffy brand!

Keep  seeds in an area that allows for humidity while germinating

Peppers need humidity for germination far more than many other seeds grown in one’s garden.  As such, make sure and utilize a seed starting dome planter or a greenhouse to control humidity.

Move quickly into a larger pot once germinated and place them in good lighting 

Once the seeds have germinated move them off the heat mat, and place them in a larger pot.  One where they can spend at least the next 60 days.  During this mid life,  (where they are not in the ground but still inside) continue to use high draining soil.

 

 

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When to Start Seeds Indoors – Timing is Everything!

“When do I start my seeds?” 

It’s not surprising that this is the question I get the most.  After all, there are so many plants, so many time zones, and so many ways to start a seed.  Many new timers are confused about when to start, how to start or what to start when it comes to seeds for their garden. This is also not surprising as growing plants from seeds is one of the most natural things a gardener can do!  The truth is this a great question! Why? Because, for most time zones there are only so many growing days in the season!  One does not want to use the bulk of that time growing their plant, they want to use the bulk of that time harvesting food.    Starting seeds indoors, helps ensure this can occur as quickly as possible; and, plants are as strong as can be once they are transplanted outside!   

Like several things it often comes down to a few good tips.  For me, after three decades of trying, failing, trying and succeeding, those few quick tips have come down to the three “T’s,” Timing, Tools, and Tending!  This article will focus on Timing and one of the best ways I have found to determine when it’s time to start ones seeds! 

“Is there a Simpler Way”

Beleive it or not knowing when to start your seeds can be quite simple; and, many an issue can be resolved by first gathering three bits of information:

1.  Last Frost Date:  There is usually a spring frost before spring is consistently warm. This last spring frost is known as the “Last Frost Date.” The date in ones area where the last of the cold hits, and the consistent warmth of spring actually starts.   There are multiple places on the web to find out where your last frost date is.  My favorite is the  Farmers Almanac First and Last Frost Dates  calander!   In most cases, this is the date you can consider starting to plant outdoors!

2.  Time to Harvest: Time to harvest is litterally the time it takes a plant to actually produce fruit! The grwoth time before your eating your produce!  The “Time to Harvest” is most often found on the front or back of a seed packet and can range anywhere from 25 days up to a much as 100 days.  

3. Growth Time before Transplanting:  The time one wants their plants to have to grow prior to planting them outside.   A good range is 30% to 50% of the total “Time to Harvest (2).”   The larger percentage of course meaning the plants will be indoors longer.

“Ok so now what?”

So  you know your “Last Frost Date”, your “Time to Harvest” and the “Growth Time before Transplanting” now what? Utilize the “Growth Time before Transplanting” and your “Last Frost Date” to back into the seed start date.   

For example: Hot Peppers can take up to 100 days before the ‘Time to Harvest” is reached.  Targeting 50% of that means the “Growth time before Transplanting” is approximatly 50 days.  Lets look at that example using my zones!

    1. Last Frost Date in My Zone:  April 1 
    2. Time to Harvest for Hot Peppers: 100 Days  
    3. Growth Time Before Planting Outside:  50 Days (50% of Time to Harvest)
    4. Date to start seeds: February 11 
  • Seeds would need to be started by February 11th to allow for a “Growth Time before Transplanting” of at lease 50 days (50% of the “Time to Harvest”)  by the time I reached my “Last Frost Date”!   

There you Go! Now get out there and grow some seeds!

Comming Soon:

How to Grow From Seeds – Tools Are Everything!

 

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Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

Garlic Chives are my favorite herb to grow; and, it's not because of the culinary uses, although those are amazing too.  It's singularly because of the beautiful white flowers that sit on long sturdy stems from around July to October.  It's no wonder I received so many requests to confirm what these lovely flowers where when posting some of their pictures!

About Garlic Chives

Garlic chives, sometimes called Chinese chives, are a part of the Allium family and are similar to onion chives.  You can certainly see the family resemblance if you look at the grassy leaves and rounded flower tops.  However, onion chives have more of a purple flower with rounder hollow chive leaves.  Garlic chives on the other hand have dark green flat shiny leaves and brilliantly white flowers.

Tips for Growing Garlic Chives

  • Garlic chives are perennials that can be grown up to Zone 3 and planted in spring either from their seeds (which there is plenty of) or from separation of their root base.
  • Although garlic chives are very hardy, they are most week when young.  They have very tiny tender leaves that are easy to mistake for grass or weeds if growing in an area that is not established for chives.
    60 day old chives

    As such, if growing from seed it's best to start them in planters and move them to their permanent home at around 30 days old.  Or, be strategic in where you plant them so you recognize them when the seedlings start to grow.

  • Chives can grow in full sun. By full sun I mean all day in some of the hottest areas, even those crazy southern states.   They can also do well in shade, on a patio in a pot or under a tree.  They won't however produce as many flowers.
  • Although chives can take the heat and are drought tolerant they do best (grow the largest with the most flowers) with a moderately moist soil.
  • Garlic chives flowers  give their best show after they have established their roots for a season and improve as they get older!  These chives you see here are four years old!  They are quite happy with large mounds of chives and many flowers!

Things to Consider When Growing Chives

Managing the Seeds

Garlic chives make a beautiful addition to a boarder or as you see here growing in front of taller plants.  Gardeners however, need to be aware of their seeds!   Each one of the individual flowers will form a seed pod.  

Start of a seed pod on Garlic Chive flowers.

In all honesty the seed stage of the Garlic Chive is quite beautiful.    Flowers will stay on the stems for at least thirty days while the seeds form and the flowers dry out.  There will be many many seeds and they will propagate themselves where ever they fall.   However, what is left behind on the plant is dried pods that make very interesting dried flower arrangements.  When going through the seed stage, to avoid issues, one should place their plants where they either do not care where the seeds fall, or simply cut the flowers and take them in to enjoy.

Companion planting with Garlic Chives

Planting garlic chives in your garden adds both beauty and sensibility as they are a natural deterrent for insects!  Gardening Know How  (one of my favorite sites) even reports they deter black spot on roses and scabs on apples.  I actually have them growing under my apple tree!      Honestly there are chives growing in multiple places around my yard.   In addition as you can see from the short video below the bees absolutely flock to these flowers. so if your planning a fall garden, having garlic chives blooming should be a must in the drive for strong pollination!

Some key plants that benefit particularly well from chives are:

  • Carrots
  • Grapes
  • Roses
  • Tomatoes
  • Corn
  • Okra
  • Squash
  • Peppers

It is said to be an issue to grow garlic with peas and onions.  I grew my garlic chives within two feet of peas this year and found no issue.  This however may be because the garlic chive does not have the traditional bulb that  garlic has.   Unfortunately, one season does not make a trend as such I will be testing these combinations out some more.

Uses for Garlic Chives

  • Both the flowers and the chives themselves can be eaten.
  • Place chives or the flowers in salads.
  • Use chives for stews or to season meats while cooking them.   I love clipping long strands of chives, placing them on the grill and laying the meats on top of them.  The smell is amazing!
  • Here is a quick video on growing chives!

 

Growing and Planning for Garlic Chives

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Growing Zinnias!

About Zinnias

Enjoying My Zinnias

I find it hard sometimes to actually say how enjoyable Zinnias are.  They are one of the only flowers that is simultaneously wild and controlled!  One can clearly envision them sprawling across the dry grasslands of South America, growing in an urban garden or, in a planter on ones patio!  Regardless of where their placed growing zinnias, at least for me, is a must in my space! Zinnias come in a rainbow of colors promising summer long beauty and are almost maintenance free. And, as far as pollinators go I'll steal from Kevin Costner’s “Field of Dreams,” and say if you plant them they will come!

How to Grow Zinnias

Zinnias are one of the easiest annual plants to grow.  They do well in full sun 6 or more hours and even hot southern states can trust them to survive.  There are several different kinds of Zinnias, tall from 4-5 feet or, dwarf for boarders and containers.

Tall Zinnias at about four feet.

With so many options every spot in your garden can have color.  Zinnias ideal soil is fertile and well drained; however, they need very little prep.   I honestly do not do much for the soil outside of compost.  I simply choose a spot with good sun, loosen it up and drop the seeds. They don't let me down!  In about 30 days I'll have that beautiful color.  Therefore, plant your Zinnias and then sit back, relax and watch them grow.

Tips for Growing Zinnias

  • Plant Zinnia seeds when temperatures are above 50 degrees with no risk of frost.  Many sites recommend spacing of twelve inches, however I simply sprinkle their seeds randomly in a spot and thin them as they begin to grow.
  • Zinnias are not a good transplant flower. As such, plant them where you wish them to live.  If they must be started early ensure a nice size seeding pot and move them before they’re root bound.
  • Cut spent flower heads often. Cleaning the flowers ensures new flowers all summer long. Drop the seeds if they are in a place you wish them to return year after year or store them for replanting.
  • Zinnias are exceptional cut flowers lasting weeks on your table.
  • This flower can take the heat! However, they do like moist well drained soil. If you have extremely high temp days plan to water them daily during that time or locate in a part shade spot.
  • Zinnias sometimes shed their leaves from the bottom up.  This is caused from high temperature stress or by watering the leaves on the bottom of the plants.  If this occurs simply remove the lower leaves that have browned.
  • Water Zinnias from the bottom only!  They can be prone to powdery mildew and getting their leaves wet expounds this issue. Use soaker hoses or drip hoses or just make sure your holding your sprinkler handle at the ground level.
  • If you have selected tall zinnias don’t underestimate their size. Plan your space knowing how wide and tall they will be (up to five feet tall and two or more feet across).

Zinnias grow fast allowing  fearless experimentation for first time gardeners.  Therefore, don’t be afraid to place them throughout your beds.  

Zinnias as a Companion Plant

  • Zinnias are companion plants for ANY vegetable garden. They are guaranteed to bring the pollinators.  Bees and butterflies constantly fly around them so, if you need pollination they’re a must.
  • Zinnias attract wasps which are beneficial natural enemies to many non beneficial bugs.
  • They attract hummingbirds which eat white flies an enemy of tomatoes, cucumbers and potatoes. And let's just all take a moment to agree hummingbirds are cool.

Zinnias ability to draw pollinators is so good for your space, and the flowers are so beautiful that a small video is really the best way to show you this awesome flower.

Do you grow Zinnias in your garden?  What tips do you have to share?

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One Red Pepper in the Making
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Zucchini – Black Beauty Squash

About Black Beauty Squash

By far one of the most beautiful vegetables ever! The Black Beauty Squash earns its name with dark glossy green leaves growing as large as 12 inches across and bright beautiful yellow flowers known to grow up to 6″ across.   The fruit is no slacker either with its dark green skin and creamy white flesh it’s what I like to call a Forest Gump vegetable.  You can fry it, boil it, steam it, bake it, grill it, put it on a burger, put it in a casserole, make bread out of it and freeze it to have it all again later!

Its only down side is that morning is the only time those beautiful flowers show themselves.  This of course just gives us the perfect reason to take that cup of coffee and wander to the garden for a look (as if we needed another one!).

How to Grow

The Black Beauty is a hybrid plant and according to Bonnie Plants started in 1957.  It is a part of the cucurbita pepo family which includes acorns, pumpkins, gourds, crook neck squash, cocozelle, scallops and marrow.  Growing this zucchini is not difficult.  It needs consistent but not over watering with well-drained soil and full sun.

  • Soak the seeds in water for about 30 minutes. 
  • Start indoors three to four weeks ahead of time or sow it straight in the ground once the soil temperatures reach at least 70 degrees.
  • Pick fruit when it is about 6-8″ long.  You can grow it longer however the uses decline as the seeds get large and the flesh is not as soft.

Tips

  • These babies need full sun up to six hours. However, as with other full sun plants if you’re in the South don’t make the mistake of thinking it will take your 100 degree days; it won’t!  Plan accordingly and have some partial shade in the afternoon to help it out.
  • My Zucchini has done well with good compost to get it going and a bit of Epsom salt and coffee grinds mixed in with the soil monthly.
  • Zucchini is subject to power mildew so avoid watering the leaves of this plant; water from below.
  • Check daily for fruit!  Watch for them!  these critters can hide on you under those big leaves and before you know it you have a monster on your hands.

Humans are not the only ones to love Zucchini; and, more than one Gardner (myself included) has been brought to tears over two of its arch enemies the    Squash Vine Borers and Squash bugs.  Be on the lookout for these insects and plan for quick action on managing them.  Natural plant companions that also act as repellents  to the bugs and borers include:

  • Radishes (Iceberg Radishes especially)
  • Parsley
  • Nasturtiums
  • Peppermint

 

Other Companion Plants Include

  • Corn
  • Beans
  • Beets
  • Lettuce
  • Lovage
  • Peppers
  • Spinach
  • Squash
  • Tomatoes
  • Do NOT grow with Potatoes!

 

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Insects – The Sunflower Moth

About the Sunflower Moth

For those that love Sunflowers be on the look out for this pesky insect! It’s a small white sandy colored moth in the genus Homoeosoma.  There are two types, the American Sunflower moth (Homoeosoma electellum) and the Eurasian sunflower moth (Homoeosoma nebulella).   They show up in May to August time frame (depending on your region) and are most prevalent in the twilight hours, (figures it would be right when we all love to be in the garden) where the female lays their eggs on the sunflower head.   

The spawn of this devil will hatch in about a week’s time and burrow themselves down into the the seed head and attempt to eat to their heart’s content with no concern what so ever to your precious plants (how rude!).    To make matters worse this pest can also effect your Marigolds and your Echinacea  as you can see from the picture below where some of my own were impacted.   Signs of damage appears as a rotted area right in the middle of your flowers.   If you pull the seed head apart you will most often find the worms, (I’ll add a pic of that).

Tips to Avoid and Treat

Like so many of the insects we deal with in our gardens there are a few natural enemies of the sunflower moth.

  • Wasps will attack the larvae as well as eat the eggs of the moth reducing its impact.
  • Ground beetles can attack the overwintering pupae and pirate bugs will also feed on them.
  • Insecticidal soap as well as dawn dish soap (1 1/2 tsp per quart) mixed with water and sprayed on the plant’s seed head can be used.
  • Organic insecticides such as BT and Neem can be used.
  • I personally have had good luck using Neem Oil (the 100% organic cold pressed kind that you mix yourself) to detour them.   Simply spray the seed heads while spraying the rest of the garden.
  • Tilling your soil well for winter as well as again in spring and using nematodes is a good practice. This helps remove any overwintering little critters, (get them while they sleep!)

There are also several synthetic sprays that can be used. However its best for our bees to try the natural methods first as there are so many organic options available to control this pesky insect.     If you find them on your plant cut and remove the flowers impacted and do not compost!

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Growing Dill

About Dill

Dill looks like a plant that comes right out of a fairy garden! It has an almost magical quality with long green stems that branch out into clusters forming an umbrella of bright yellow flowers adorning wispy blue-green fern like leaves. The flowers also make dill nice to have in your bed as they seed profusely making growing dill so easy guaranteeing its return over and over again.

Dill is a biennial and comes from  Mediterranean and southeastern European areas.  It is most commonly known for its wonderful culinary uses where every part of the plant, from its stems to the flowers and seeds can be eaten.   It is a member of the parsley family, which makes it one of those aromatic plants known as umbellifers.  As such, it’s not uncommon to catch the smell when walking through any garden where dill is growing; or, find many pollinators like wasps, bees and butterflies visiting the site.

How to Grow

Dill can be grown in containers or outdoors in natural beds.  It can also be grown indoors as long as it has a bright spot with good sun for at least 6 hours a day.   However, once a decision has been made on where to place it, don’t move it!  Dill has a very large tap-root system that does not like to be moved and would likely not transplant well if attempted.

Dill likes sandy soil or well-drained soil that is around 70 degrees when planting.  It will grow taller and stronger in full sun however it does prefer consistent moderate weather that is not either too hot or too cold so plan for some shade if you are in a spot with extremely high heat. Sow seeds broadly a quarter to 1" deep and within 30 days of sprouting thin to about 12" apart. 

Tips

  • Dill ferns can be cut as soon as they have four branches on them and should be harvested before the flowers bloom for the most optimum flavor.
  • If more ferns are preferred plant fern leaf, for more seeds plant mammoth; or, go wild and plant both to ensure a large supply for canning, garnishing, soups and seasoning.
  • Dill can grow from three to four feet tall and may need support with stakes so try to plan it in a space that is protected from high winds.
  • Harvest dill when the umbel, the flower heard, has turned brown and the stem is still somewhat green.
  • Black Swallow tail butterflies love dill; it would be surprising if they did not show up.  If you want to avoid having them eat the ferns plant several spots around your space and choose one for them; then, migrate them to that section as they appear and enjoy their beauty.

Companions

Dill grows well with cucumbers (of course!) along with cabbage plants,  corn, asparagus, onions lettuce, squash or basil.  Dill does not do well with carrots.

Characteristics:

  • Height:  24 to 48 inches tall
  • Width:  12 to 24 inches
  • Zone:  3 to 11; can be grown in summer in zones 3 and 8 and winter in 8-11
  • Maturity: harvesting can start around 30-45 days with seeds at 60-90

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Echinacea-Growing Coneflowers

About Echinacea

One of the coolest flowers! There is just something special about this beautiful perennial that shows up in spring on long stems with petals of pink or yellow surrounding a bright orange spiky center. My  opinion is not singular either!  Anyone “asking Google” will find an intriguing history surrounding this herbaceous plant; and, as you can see from the photo it’s loved by bees and birds alike.  So if you’re looking for a pollinating powerhouse or a way to feed those birds you long to bring to you’re yard or gardens echinacea is the plant for you!

Echinacea, also known as cone flower, pink sunflower, hedgehog and several other common names,  originates from eastern and central North America growing wild in prairies and wooded areas.  It is known for its pink flowers; however, you can also find them in yellow, white and several new hybrid colors ranging from red to burgundy and even green.

How to Grow

One of the neat things about echinacea is that it is a perennial so it can be divided and grown from existing roots (should be at least three before doing this) and also grown from its seeds like annuals.  It is not an argumentative plant and will accommodate most soils but does prefer rich well drained soil and full sun defined as six hours per day.

If planting from seed, echinacea produces its best flowers after a winter sleep.  This means they need stratification  and should be planted in the fall to naturally  take advantage of the cold wet conditions needed for the best germination.  If your in an area that does not allow natural stratification, or are attempting to seed in spring:

  • Soak the seeds in water for a few hours
  • Plant them in small seed starting pots and close them in a sealable bag
  • Place the bag in the refrigerator up to 10 days checking regularly to ensure they have retained moisture.
  • Once sprouted you can remove them from the refrigerator and move them to the place you wish to plant them.
  • If it is late in the summer season, keep your seedlings in an area that is slightly shaded for a few days to acclimate them to the new temperatures gradually moving them over a few days time.

Tips:

These beauties do love full sun however in extremely hot climates with high temperatures for long periods of time they will burn and wilt.  To avoid this know your areas and if you’re in one of our hot southern states choose a location that offers them shade in the hotter hours of the day.

Echinacea is a perennial so like many others it can start to look ratty after the blooms of spring.  To extend its life some cut some of the flowers for arrangements as it grows promoting new growth.

If you’re leaving the flowers on to dry for birds or seed propagation cut the stems back to the base as soon as they have dried.   This will enable a new surge of flowers for the fall.

Characteristics:

  • Height:  12 to 36 inches tall
  • Width:  12 to 24 inches
  • Zone:  3 to 8; can be grown in zones 9 and 10 however should be treated as an annual using stratification to ensure proper germination each season.
  • Maturity: 90-120 days

Common Names

  • American Coneflower
  • Coneflower
  • Pink Sun Flower
  • Pale Coneflower
  • Purple Coneflower
  • Echinacea Angustifolia
  • Hedgehog
  • Indian Head
  • Kansas Snakeroot
  • Narrow-Leaved Purple Cone Flower

Also See!

Medicinal uses of Echinacea (Coming Soon)
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