Using Sunflower Stalks in Your Garden!

If you’re a Gardner like me you’re always looking for ways to re-use!   One spends so much time and money on their gardens anyway.  Why not find ways to utilize the plants they grow, (outside of the obvious food of course)!  This was my thought when I started investigating using Sunflower or Okra stalks in my vegetable beds.   I mean Sunflowers are just a beautiful addition to any garden and I plant them everywhere!
Skyscrapers along the back
Mammoth Sunflowers by the Arbor
Skyscrapers Around the Pond
Corn and sunflowers

What really grabbed my attention was the size of them.   Some of these plants grow so tall and the stalks are so large that it just seemed right to use them in the gardens if possible.  As a result, over the last season, I have been testing out both sunflower and okra stalks as tepees and as slat holders in my space.  Here are some tips I have learned on reusing these giant plants.

Tips on using Sunflower and Okra Stalks

  • The stalks of the skyscraper sunflowers can range from three to four inches around at the largest point.  Some even get as high as fifteen feet.  These can make beautiful natural poles for beans etc. As such, if they are in the right spot you may consider not cutting them at all.
    Skyscraper Sunflower sawed for drying

    Plant your veining plants at the base of them and allow them to simply crawl their way up.

However, If you need to utilize your stalks in a spot other than where they grew,  pull them up and clean them for drying.

 

  • Utilize a small saw to cut them at the base of the plant.  After removing several of them I found it easier, (at least on the larger plants ) to cut them first and deal with the roots later.

    Saw the stalks at the base of the plant
  • Prepare stalks for drying by removing any leaves, stems, flowers etc remaining on the plants.  Do  NOT cut the leaves or stems all the way to the stalk!  Allow about an inch of length to remain.
    Leave about an inch of the stem on your stalks while cleaning

    This sounds odd; however, once dry this tip hardens, and provides great handles for string, twine or rope.

  • Drying is very important.  Okra stalks were harder to dry.  I lost several to mold while attempting to dry them over the fall and winter season.  The weather was too cold and wet.   Sunflower stalks dried much faster and easier with less loss.   As such if your planning on using Okra it’s best to grow them in the spring and use the summer sun to dry them with.
  • Find a place that has full sun and keep them off the ground.   An arbor can provide the perfect spot!
    Sunflower stalks drying on the arbor

  • Sunflower stalks took about 45 days to fully dry.  At that point they were ready for the garden.
  • For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together.  It’s also helpful to dig out the area the  tepees will fill prior to tying them up.

    Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!

You can find Sunflower and Okra stalks all over my beds.  The larger stalks were used for zucchini and Gourds

Zucchini took up lots of space before the stalks.
Stalks in place, Zucchini now off the ground!
Underestimated the weight of the gourds! Vines were hanging low.
Larger Stalks held the weight lifting them above the plants below them
Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!
Smaller stalks make perfect bean or cantaloupe tepees.

Overall I have been very satisfied with the beauty and versatility these wonderful plants add to a garden.  Once your flowers are gone, before you throw them out, look around your area and make sure there is not a place their stalks are needed!   Here is a quick video to cover a bit of the content on this article!

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Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

Garlic Chives are my favorite herb to grow; and, it's not because of the culinary uses, although those are amazing too.  It's singularly because of the beautiful white flowers that sit on long sturdy stems from around July to October.  It's no wonder I received so many requests to confirm what these lovely flowers where when posting some of their pictures!

About Garlic Chives

Garlic chives, sometimes called Chinese chives, are a part of the Allium family and are similar to onion chives.  You can certainly see the family resemblance if you look at the grassy leaves and rounded flower tops.  However, onion chives have more of a purple flower with rounder hollow chive leaves.  Garlic chives on the other hand have dark green flat shiny leaves and brilliantly white flowers.

Tips for Growing Garlic Chives

  • Garlic chives are perennials that can be grown up to Zone 3 and planted in spring either from their seeds (which there is plenty of) or from separation of their root base.
  • Although garlic chives are very hardy, they are most week when young.  They have very tiny tender leaves that are easy to mistake for grass or weeds if growing in an area that is not established for chives.
    60 day old chives

    As such, if growing from seed it's best to start them in planters and move them to their permanent home at around 30 days old.  Or, be strategic in where you plant them so you recognize them when the seedlings start to grow.

  • Chives can grow in full sun. By full sun I mean all day in some of the hottest areas, even those crazy southern states.   They can also do well in shade, on a patio in a pot or under a tree.  They won't however produce as many flowers.
  • Although chives can take the heat and are drought tolerant they do best (grow the largest with the most flowers) with a moderately moist soil.
  • Garlic chives flowers  give their best show after they have established their roots for a season and improve as they get older!  These chives you see here are four years old!  They are quite happy with large mounds of chives and many flowers!

Things to Consider When Growing Chives

Managing the Seeds

Garlic chives make a beautiful addition to a boarder or as you see here growing in front of taller plants.  Gardeners however, need to be aware of their seeds!   Each one of the individual flowers will form a seed pod.  

Start of a seed pod on Garlic Chive flowers.

In all honesty the seed stage of the Garlic Chive is quite beautiful.    Flowers will stay on the stems for at least thirty days while the seeds form and the flowers dry out.  There will be many many seeds and they will propagate themselves where ever they fall.   However, what is left behind on the plant is dried pods that make very interesting dried flower arrangements.  When going through the seed stage, to avoid issues, one should place their plants where they either do not care where the seeds fall, or simply cut the flowers and take them in to enjoy.

Companion planting with Garlic Chives

Planting garlic chives in your garden adds both beauty and sensibility as they are a natural deterrent for insects!  Gardening Know How  (one of my favorite sites) even reports they deter black spot on roses and scabs on apples.  I actually have them growing under my apple tree!      Honestly there are chives growing in multiple places around my yard.   In addition as you can see from the short video below the bees absolutely flock to these flowers. so if your planning a fall garden, having garlic chives blooming should be a must in the drive for strong pollination!

Some key plants that benefit particularly well from chives are:

  • Carrots
  • Grapes
  • Roses
  • Tomatoes
  • Corn
  • Okra
  • Squash
  • Peppers

It is said to be an issue to grow garlic with peas and onions.  I grew my garlic chives within two feet of peas this year and found no issue.  This however may be because the garlic chive does not have the traditional bulb that  garlic has.   Unfortunately, one season does not make a trend as such I will be testing these combinations out some more.

Uses for Garlic Chives

  • Both the flowers and the chives themselves can be eaten.
  • Place chives or the flowers in salads.
  • Use chives for stews or to season meats while cooking them.   I love clipping long strands of chives, placing them on the grill and laying the meats on top of them.  The smell is amazing!
  • Here is a quick video on growing chives!

 

Growing and Planning for Garlic Chives

Growing Zinnias!

About Zinnias

Enjoying My Zinnias

I find it hard sometimes to actually say how enjoyable Zinnias are.  They are one of the only flowers that is simultaneously wild and controlled!  One can clearly envision them sprawling across the dry grasslands of South America, growing in an urban garden or, in a planter on ones patio!  Regardless of where their placed growing zinnias, at least for me, is a must in my space! Zinnias come in a rainbow of colors promising summer long beauty and are almost maintenance free. And, as far as pollinators go I'll steal from Kevin Costner’s “Field of Dreams,” and say if you plant them they will come!

How to Grow Zinnias

Zinnias are one of the easiest annual plants to grow.  They do well in full sun 6 or more hours and even hot southern states can trust them to survive.  There are several different kinds of Zinnias, tall from 4-5 feet or, dwarf for boarders and containers.

Tall Zinnias at about four feet.

With so many options every spot in your garden can have color.  Zinnias ideal soil is fertile and well drained; however, they need very little prep.   I honestly do not do much for the soil outside of compost.  I simply choose a spot with good sun, loosen it up and drop the seeds. They don't let me down!  In about 30 days I'll have that beautiful color.  Therefore, plant your Zinnias and then sit back, relax and watch them grow.

Tips for Growing Zinnias

  • Plant Zinnia seeds when temperatures are above 50 degrees with no risk of frost.  Many sites recommend spacing of twelve inches, however I simply sprinkle their seeds randomly in a spot and thin them as they begin to grow.
  • Zinnias are not a good transplant flower. As such, plant them where you wish them to live.  If they must be started early ensure a nice size seeding pot and move them before they’re root bound.
  • Cut spent flower heads often. Cleaning the flowers ensures new flowers all summer long. Drop the seeds if they are in a place you wish them to return year after year or store them for replanting.
  • Zinnias are exceptional cut flowers lasting weeks on your table.
  • This flower can take the heat! However, they do like moist well drained soil. If you have extremely high temp days plan to water them daily during that time or locate in a part shade spot.
  • Zinnias sometimes shed their leaves from the bottom up.  This is caused from high temperature stress or by watering the leaves on the bottom of the plants.  If this occurs simply remove the lower leaves that have browned.
  • Water Zinnias from the bottom only!  They can be prone to powdery mildew and getting their leaves wet expounds this issue. Use soaker hoses or drip hoses or just make sure your holding your sprinkler handle at the ground level.
  • If you have selected tall zinnias don’t underestimate their size. Plan your space knowing how wide and tall they will be (up to five feet tall and two or more feet across).

Zinnias grow fast allowing  fearless experimentation for first time gardeners.  Therefore, don’t be afraid to place them throughout your beds.  

Zinnias as a Companion Plant

  • Zinnias are companion plants for ANY vegetable garden. They are guaranteed to bring the pollinators.  Bees and butterflies constantly fly around them so, if you need pollination they’re a must.
  • Zinnias attract wasps which are beneficial natural enemies to many non beneficial bugs.
  • They attract hummingbirds which eat white flies an enemy of tomatoes, cucumbers and potatoes. And let's just all take a moment to agree hummingbirds are cool.

Zinnias ability to draw pollinators is so good for your space, and the flowers are so beautiful that a small video is really the best way to show you this awesome flower.

Do you grow Zinnias in your garden?  What tips do you have to share?

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One Red Pepper in the Making

Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!

Using Epsom salt in your garden once a month is the easiest way to keep your plants healthy!  Epsom is also one of the cheaper forms of fertilizer you can use.  As such, make Epsom a part of your garden regimen and use it monthly! 

What is Epsom Salt?

Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate and both (magnesium and sulfate) are needed for your plants to thrive.  Magnesium helps with photosynthesis, increases your seeds germination rate and reduces shock when transplanting seedlings into your garden.  Sulfate helps with root growth and the overall strength of your plant.  Both enable your soil to maintain its health, providing a boost of nutrients in both your gardens and your potted plants. 

What plants should use Epsom?

Epsom can be used on almost all plants.  Plants like cabbage, onions and broccoli will actually have a  sweeter flavor with the use of Epsom.  Tomatoes, peppers and roses need it even more and will grow stronger with darker leaves and better flower production if used regularly.  Cole crops, squash, flowers and most other vegetables can also benefit from Epsom. 

How do I use Epsom Salt?

Epsom salt can be used as a foliage spray or placed directly in the soil.   I personally prefer the soil as it is only required monthly and it's easy to add it in the garden.  However, I have used the foliage spray when my plants get larger and I have more to feed.

  • Foliage: A good rule of thumb when using Epsom as a spray for your foliage is 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Spray this mix on your plants leaves every two weeks.
  • Soil:  If using Epsom in the soil use 1 tablespoon per foot of plant height around the base of the plant and work it into the soil with your hands or a trowel once a month.
  • Potted plants: 2 tablespoons in one gallon of water and use this to water your plants with one time per month.

Growing Dill

About Dill

Dill looks like a plant that comes right out of a fairy garden! It has an almost magical quality with long green stems that branch out into clusters forming an umbrella of bright yellow flowers adorning wispy blue-green fern like leaves. The flowers also make dill nice to have in your bed as they seed profusely making growing dill so easy guaranteeing its return over and over again.

Dill is a biennial and comes from  Mediterranean and southeastern European areas.  It is most commonly known for its wonderful culinary uses where every part of the plant, from its stems to the flowers and seeds can be eaten.   It is a member of the parsley family, which makes it one of those aromatic plants known as umbellifers.  As such, it’s not uncommon to catch the smell when walking through any garden where dill is growing; or, find many pollinators like wasps, bees and butterflies visiting the site.

How to Grow

Dill can be grown in containers or outdoors in natural beds.  It can also be grown indoors as long as it has a bright spot with good sun for at least 6 hours a day.   However, once a decision has been made on where to place it, don’t move it!  Dill has a very large tap-root system that does not like to be moved and would likely not transplant well if attempted.

Dill likes sandy soil or well-drained soil that is around 70 degrees when planting.  It will grow taller and stronger in full sun however it does prefer consistent moderate weather that is not either too hot or too cold so plan for some shade if you are in a spot with extremely high heat. Sow seeds broadly a quarter to 1" deep and within 30 days of sprouting thin to about 12" apart. 

Tips

  • Dill ferns can be cut as soon as they have four branches on them and should be harvested before the flowers bloom for the most optimum flavor.
  • If more ferns are preferred plant fern leaf, for more seeds plant mammoth; or, go wild and plant both to ensure a large supply for canning, garnishing, soups and seasoning.
  • Dill can grow from three to four feet tall and may need support with stakes so try to plan it in a space that is protected from high winds.
  • Harvest dill when the umbel, the flower heard, has turned brown and the stem is still somewhat green.
  • Black Swallow tail butterflies love dill; it would be surprising if they did not show up.  If you want to avoid having them eat the ferns plant several spots around your space and choose one for them; then, migrate them to that section as they appear and enjoy their beauty.

Companions

Dill grows well with cucumbers (of course!) along with cabbage plants,  corn, asparagus, onions lettuce, squash or basil.  Dill does not do well with carrots.

Characteristics:

  • Height:  24 to 48 inches tall
  • Width:  12 to 24 inches
  • Zone:  3 to 11; can be grown in summer in zones 3 and 8 and winter in 8-11
  • Maturity: harvesting can start around 30-45 days with seeds at 60-90

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