Tag: organic

Posted on

Growing Garlic

There are few smells as well-known as garlic!  The aroma itself brings happiness and growing garlic is so much better as the flavor of fresh garlic cannot be beat!

 

Categories of Garlic

Although there are many different kinds of garlic most can be classified in two distinct categories known as Soft Neck and Hard Neck.

Soft neck garlic:

Soft neck garlic has stronger white outer layers of skin that makes them best for long periods of storage.  These are often found in grocery stores or markets. Soft neck garlic does not have the long flowering stems found on hard neck garlic.  This feature makes them better for braiding and they actually grow best in milder winter areas.

Hard neck garlic:  

True to its name, hard neck garlic sends out a long woody flowering stem that generates edible scapes.  Hard neck is also cold weather hardy so it’s best for areas that have stronger winters. In contrast to soft neck, it has a thinner more papery skin that is easier to peel.  However, this thinner skin means that it will not store as long as your soft neck varieties.

Elephant garlic is often listed as its own category; however, it is not. It does fit within either the soft neck or the hard neck varieties yet it is worth a call out as it produces the largest of the bulbs with only 4 to 6 bulbs per garlic head and has the mildest of the flavors.    

Growing Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest plants to grow with very few enemies.  In addition it offers some of the best natural protection making it a great companion plant for a large range of plants.  One can have the best crops by following these simple tips

  • Plan to plant your garlic in the fall.  Allow for approximately 4 to 6 weeks before your first cold spell hits your area.  Garlic be grown in early January; however its best in fall for two reasons: 1: garlic really needs a cold spell to set well and planting in the winter ensures this process.  2:  they need to have strong established roots by spring so that the plant can then focus on a large healthy garlic head.
  • Garlic takes approximately 6 months to fully form. This means once planted in fall they will be in your beds throughout your spring growing period.  As such, choose your location wisely.  Think about the plants you plan to grow in spring knowing you will be planting around them during this time.  
  • Grow garlic in full sun locations.  For heavy heat areas plan for some spots with some shade in the hottest parts of the day.

 

 

  • Separate your bulbs from the head, leave the paper skin on them and plant them within 2 days of separation.  Make sure you select the largest and healthiest bulbs from each garlic head.

 

  • Plant in well-drained soil with good organic matter making sure you have worked the soil so that its soft and pliable for your garlic to grow in. Place a bit of Epsom and bone mill or fish fertilizer in the soil prior to dropping them in!  
  • Dig the holes approximately 2-4 inches deep.  Sites will state to list them 6 inches apart. I have pushed this at times and planted them 3 inches apart.  I would not recommend any closer as you want the bulbs to have plenty of room to grow.
  • If you planted last year, practice rotating your garlic annually this will deter returning pests to your area!

One may be tempted to grow garlic from the stores;  however, I don’t recommend this. You will not know for sure what type you have or how they were grown. Yes,  garlic can seem expensive at first; however, keep in mind you will get a full head of garlic from each bulb planted.  In addition if dried and stored properly one will be able to use their own garlic for continued growth season after season going forward.

Companion Planting

On a personal note I love to scatter garlic throughout my beds. Growing them where I have open spaces or boarders. It offers a natural repellent for  plants and can deter deer and rabbit making it an exceptional companion plant.  Here I have placed it all along the back in the my lettuce and cabbage beds to help detour pests. 

 

 

 

 

Pests deterred by garlic

  • Gnats
  • Spider Mites
  • Aphids
  • Snails
  • Ants

Plants that benefit from garlic

  • Fruit trees
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Beets
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Potatoes
  • Carrots
  • Eggplants
  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli Kohlrabi
  • Roses
  • Geraniums

Do not grow garlic around

  • asparagus
  • peas
  • beans
  • sage
  • parsley or
  • onions (onions and garlic attract the same enemies so it’s best not to plant them together)

Quick Video On Planting Garlic

 

 

 

Accompanying Articles

Knowing When to Harvest Your Garlic

Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

 

 

Posted on

Growing Yarrow

 

Yarrow has become one of my favorite wild herbs. I received my first yarrow plants as an act of God.  Yep, I found it growing wild in my pesticide/weed killer free lawn right next to the Dandelions! Once this fuzzy fern looking plant was identified as Yarrow, I knew it was staying and moved several clusters to a designated spot in the garden. It now returns annually. I do still tend to find more showing up in other areas. When this occurs I either move it to its designated spot, pull it up, or leave it right where it is and allow it to bloom.  

Growing from Seed

If starting Yarrow from seed start indoors 6 to 8 weeks prior to the last frost. Plant in ground once all fear of frost has passed.

  • If direct sowing start in early spring after all chance of cold has passed.    
  • Yarrow loves full sun, it can grow in partial shade however will not grow as strong.  For this reason its best to find a sunny spot for Yarrow.  
  • Plant in sandy loam soil. Yarrow can grow in clay soil if water does not stand in the area for extended periods of time. 

Companion Plants

  • Lavender
  • Garlic
  • Onions
  • Cabbage, broccoli, and all the Brassicas
  • Oregano
  • Spinach
  • Thyme

Yarrow is susceptible to Powdery Mildew so DON’T grow it around plants that are also susceptible to Powdery Mildew.  For example, squash, pumpkins etc.

Read more about the history and uses of Yarrow here:

HFF Plant of the Month: Yarrow

Brought to you by Herbal Face Food

The plant of the month series brought to you by  Herbal Face Food.  A company I'm very happy to support.  Each of their products are made with 100% plants!  As they say, "HFF is not plant based it's 100% plant powered." Bringing together up to 100 different plants in their products, HFF is the only 100% plant based skin care product on the market.  I do make a discount for any purchases referred.  In turn, I'm able to offer a 20% discount to my readers along with tips on how to use the same wonderful plants in your own home or plot gardens.

Posted on

Growing Spinach

Spinach has rolled itself into the favorite winter plants category in my garden.  When picked fresh it is so good!  Spinach is a cold crop, which means it falls into the family of plants that love the cold weather! This makes growing spinach in my zone 7b garden a must!!

One of my favorite spinach's to grow is Gurneys Seed  Goliath Spinach.   I grow this Spinacia oleracea for its amazingly large buttery leaves that can reach up to 8 inches across while maintaining its sweet tender texture.  Spinach can be a bit picky; so, here are some tips for growing this beautiful vegetable in your backyard, kitchen or plot garden. 

    • Sow seeds in cool weather when the ground is workable. 
    • Spinach is super cold-hearted and loves the cold sun! Find a bright spot! Plan for morning shade and afternoon sun in the winter, In spring find a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade as it extends the growing period into hotter weather.

    • Spinach likes well draining rich composted soil.  They use lot's of food creating their thick vitamin rich leaves.
    • Use a consistent water schedule.  Let the ground get semi-dry between watering. They will for sure cry and wilt if you've waited too long.

    • Mulch your babies with fresh leaves or hay in colder weather to allow for a bit of a blanket if needed.
    • Once seedlings reach around 2 inches tall thin or transplant leaving 6 to 12 inches between each plant.
    • Feed monthly with coffee grinds and Epsom salt.  Use a good organic microbes spray.  My favorites are shared below!
    • Harvest from the outside in. Leave the center of the plant to continue producing more leaves.  Or, cut the entire plant at the base leaving the roots to reproduce as long as possible into spring.

Companion planting with Spinach

Beans and Peas add nitrogen to the soil helping with feeding spinach.  They are also taller plants and are wonderful to use as companions in spring gardens. Planting spinach below these taller plants in spring can extend the life of spinach with shade as heat arrives.

    • Cabbage, kale, Brussels anything in the Brassicas family.
    • Lettuces
    • Radishes can act as sacrificial plants near spinach drawing leaf mining insects to them.
    • Marigolds on a boarder offer pest protection as well.
    • Do NOT grow spinach with plants that need dry soil, they will cancel each other out
    • Do NOT grow spinach near potatoes.  Well, perhaps be wary.  Spinach is a shallow root plant so it can easily be grown with spinach and not impact the potatoes.  Potatoes however have a larger pest issue with flea beetles who also love spinach leaves.  Therefore, planting spinach with potatoes could very well create a flea beetle issue with your spinach. And spinach is all about the leaves.

Oma's Favorites

From raised beds to garden boots, hats and everything in between below are some of the wonderful companies I'm happy to support.  Each of these products can be found actively used in my everyday gardens.  If you have any questions about how I use them just reach out.  They have also graciously provided me a code in many cases that provides a discount if you choose to try them.    In some cases I do make a small percentage for purchases you may make.  In turn I'm able to offer these discounts and continue sharing tips for your own home gardens.

Posted on

Growing Tabasco Peppers

I get simple enjoyment out of growing Tabasco peppers. They remind me of thanksgiving and Christmas all rolled into one.  I know it sounds strange but it's the colors.  They are like little bulbs standing straight and tall in beautiful shades of orange and red.  The happiness they make me feel when I see them in the yard all bright and beautiful against the dying fall garden is just that, pure happiness.  

About Tabasco

Tabasco originates in mexico. They have a heat level that ranges from 30,000 to 50,000 on the heat scale. It's heat compares to the Cayenne pepper and has a hotter burn than the jalapeno pepper.  I love it however, on eggs and in stews and salsa. Tabasco's are tapered and grow about 2 to 3 inches in length and are most famous for the world renowned Tabasco hot sauce.

Growing Tabasco

    • Tabasco takes about 80 to 90 days to grow.  Therefore one should plan to start them indoors if living in a climate with short summer periods. 
    • Start seeds in loose soil set about ½ inch down.  I like using Grow mate Organics Root Max to give them an exceptional start.
    • Tabasco needs warm temperatures from 75 degrees up.
    • Plant in a sunny location with well draining soil and feed them monthly with Epsom salt and Coffee Grinds. I also had great results spraying them monthly with Happy Tree Microbes 
    • Tabasco needs room to branch! Plant to space the plants between 1.5-2 feet apart from each other.
    • Harvest Tabasco when the peppers have turned orange or red.  Be careful though they turn quick! They can hit that red color and within a day or so start to brown out. As such be ready for harvest! Tabasco can be harvested when green or pale yellow and allowed to ripen indoors if needed. Their flavor however is best when harvested at the last minute!
    • Tabasco needs around an inch of water a week, heavier watering during fruiting!  I allow them to dry between watering.  However, if temps reach above 95 degrees and they are fruiting, lean towards a consistent slightly moist soil to help avoid calcium issues. For example,  blossom end rot.

Companion Planting with Tabasco Plants

There is mixed opinion on Tabasco plants in regards to companion planting.  I read years ago from Homeguides SFGates to plant them separate from tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. to avoid soil borne diseases prevalent in these types of plants.  Other sites promote them together.  Personally I have always kept my peppers separate, grown in another spot away from tomatoes and eggplant and practice planting with the following:

    • Zinnias, Basil, Garlic Chives, Marigolds, Lavender and Rosemary.
    • Planting peppers around these flowers supports both plants.  The flowers bring pollinators that help peppers have the best possible fruiting,  In return peppers help protect the flowers from insects that don't like the smell of hot spicy peppers.  

In The Works

    • Tabasco Hot Sauce Recipe !

Shop Oma's Favorites

I do make a small percentage for each product sold, so that I may in turn offer those discounts to you.  

 

Follow Me On Instagram
Posted on

Dandelions

Why do so many people hate them? The dandelion I mean not the garden boots and clogs. They're  from Western Chief  and I have to believe all would agree they are pretty awesome. The dandelion however, is so dreaded by so many. One can find many a gentlemen in a fit if these little guys show up in their lawn.

Personally, one of my favorite sayings is, “I have a beautiful yard, yet, it's not a lawn.”  Lawn weed killer of any kind will not be used in these back gardens. That means dandelions and many other unwanted plants full of goodness are finding their way into this space.  The dandelion has become one of the favorites! It's hard to  believe that we as a people work so hard annually to destroy something 100% free, 100% edible and so good for our health.

Why Would one Want Dandelions?

    • Dandelions are perennials, they return every single year with no help from humans at all. Not only that, in many places they are some of the first flowers one will see. That means they bring the bees! These babies are like a light to the little pollinators of the world shining brightly and saying, “here, come here to my yard spring has arrived!” And come they will!
    • The entire Dandelion is edible. From the flowers, (which are super sweet actually no wonder the bees like them) to the stems and the roots. I have grown to love grazing on dandelion flowers. Since I know the yard is poison free they can be eaten just as any other plant grown in this space.
    • The flowers go in almost all salads and the young greens with them. Which by the way are one of the bitters; and, bitters do wonders for our gut. They can be used to make wine or when unopened pickled like capers
    • The roots are large and long (which is why they are so strong) and can be used dried or roasted for anything from coffee to medicine.

Medicinal Uses for Dandelions

The entire plant can actually be used for medicine! Dr. Nicole Apelian has some of the best details in "The Lost Book of Herbal Remedies."  Here are just a few things they can be used for.

    • Roots can be used as a tea to help with Liver, Digestion and gallbladder functions.
    • Fresh Dandelion juice can be used on ones skin to heal wounds and even treat ringworm or warts.
    • Dandelions can help with bladder infections, Iron deficiency and enhance milk production .
    • They include antioxidants that reduce inflammation helping to fight inflammation associated with arthritis.

When to Harvest Dandelions

Dandelions flower in early spring.  This is around April to June in the states and the UK; start harvesting the flowers and flower buds as soon as one sees them! If using the leaves for flowers grab the small ones as they grow more bitter with age.  Save harvesting roots until the plant is around 2 to 3 years old. This way they offer a larger harvest for teas and medicines. The roots here are right at 2 years old. I only harvested a few and decided to wait one more season to gather the big stuff!

Dandelion Tea

Dandelion tea is one of the easiest ways to reap the benefits of dandelions. Here is a quick easy recipe from Dr. Alpine:

    • ½ to 2tsp of dandelion root cut into small pieces
    • 1 cup boiling water
    • Allow roots to steep for 20 minutes
    • Strain and drink up to 3 cups per day for medicinal use.

Dr. Apelian recommends “no sweeteners as they reduce the effectiveness of the root's medicinal properties… add milk to taste if wanted”

Allergies?

Although not frequent people that are allergic to yarrow, marigolds, daisies or other plants in this family may also be allergic to Dandelions.  Pregnant women should also avoid them without doctors consultation.

The more one reads about the dandelion the more they realize it is a misunderstood plant, and could very well be one of the best gifts God has given us in the world of wild plants. So the next time you pass a Dandelion, don't be so quick to judge this little guy, and take a moment to realize how much awesomeness can be found in this single weed.

Visit me on Instagram!

Shop my Favorites!

Western Chief – I’m a proud garden ambassador to Western Chief!  Their products include garden boots and clogs as well as a range of casual shoes, are available in many places and recently can also be found at Costco! Visit them online and use OMA20 at checkout for 20% off your own pair!

Farmers Defense – Farmers Defense offers a wide range of garden products meant to protect gardeners and farmers from the sun and all the itchy things one will discover in the great outdoors.  This hat is literally my favorite hat.  Follow the link for 10% on your own products.   Or, use OMASGARDENS at checkout!

Gurney’s Seeds – If you like the looks of this beautiful lettuce mix and spinach visit Gurneys Seeds, I have used them for a decade at least.  They have some of the best seeds and plants for a gardener to grow!

Note: I earn a small bonus for each purchase.  Thank you in advance for blessing me with that as it’s what enables me to bless you as well with a discount of your own.

 

Posted on

Relocating Plants

It's Spring!!  And, it seems all I want to do is move things around in order to get ready for it!   Its almost like that spring fever some get.  You know where one wants to clean their house and rearrange their furniture.  The room feels so new, so clean.   The garden does the same thing to me.  The only difference being when relocating plants, instead of simply shoving the furniture around and being slightly horrified at the mess found below it, roots have to come up.  That's right the entire plant has to be moved and this for some can be a little scary; it doesn't have to be.

Why would one relocate plants?

I have to admit I relocate plants all the times.  Some of my babies have been moved as many as three times.  Why? The biggest reason is expanding the garden.  Take these lavender plants for example.  They were in the perfect place... last year; sitting right at the boarder of my garden.  However, after once again expanding the space they are no longer perfectly placed and have to be moved.   Other reasons could include realizing the perfect place is not perfect.  The plants are not happy.  They are either experiencing too much, or not enough sun or even water etc.  Regardless of the reason, if your on a journey to relocate your plant babies use these tips to help with the transition.

Choose the right day! 

Choosing the day is the number one thing to consider when relocating plants.  Bottom line never move plants unless you absolutely have to on an extremely hot bright sunny day.  That's right, extreme heat can add horrible stress to the plant as it tries to recover so don't move them in the heat.  The best time to move plants is either on a cool sunny in spring or my favorite an overcast cloudy day with a soft rainy occurring.  Doing this makes all the difference to ones plants.

Maintain as much of the root ball and as possible.

Some roots will be lost however savings as much as one can will ensure a fast transition to the new space.

Add Epsom salt to the new spot. 

We are not the only ones who feel relaxed in an Epsom bath.  Nope its the perfect thing to add to plants.  Just a few teaspoons mixed into the soil is perfect to help them relax through the move.  Visit my article Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!  for more details on Epsom in your garden.

Keep soil the same level as previously found.

Make note how the plant is sitting in its current space.  Dig the new hole large enough to set the plant fully in the ground and fill the soil back to the same plant height.

Water, water, water

Water should be a given; however here are a few things to help the plants establish faster.

  • Fill the entire new hole with water prior to placing the root ball into it, then fill the soil in over the water.  Yes the soil will soak it up. This helps ensure soft moist soil the now weakened roots can push through as they re-establish themselves.  Second, even if its a plant that prefers little water, provide them a bit extra over the next few weeks.  Don't drown them, ensure however the soil stays semi-moist. Again, this allows those wounded roots to easily take ownership and start to regrow.

In a strange way relocating plants successfully does give one that same feeling of walking into a new room.  Especially when completed successfully, so use these tips and move those babies as needed around that wonderful new space.

Visit me on Instagram!

Shop my Favorites!

Western Chief – I’m a proud garden ambassador to Western Chief!  Their products include garden boots and clogs as well as a range of casual shoes, are available in many places and recently can also be found at Costco! Visit them online and use OMA20 at checkout for 20% off your own pair!

Farmers Defense – Farmers Defense offers a wide range of garden products meant to protect gardeners and farmers from the sun and all the itchy things one will discover in the great outdoors.  This hat is literally my favorite hat.  Follow the link for 10% on your own products.   Or, use OMASGARDENS at checkout!

Note: I earn a small bonus for each purchase.  Thank you in advance for blessing me with that as it’s what enables me to bless you as well with a discount of your own.

 

Posted on

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Biting into a bright yellow ear of corn tastes just like summer; fresh, crisp and sweet.   I love sweet corn and can literally eat it like candy from the yard; so much so, I even assume when growing corn at least 30% of the yield will never make it in the house.  It’s a snack I quickly grab while working in the garden, or a quick breakfast if I’m out early.   This alone makes growing corn, sweet corn the perfect summer treat; and, like many others I simply feel growing corn in the backyard, allotment or kitchen garden cool!

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is the taste of summer because it only grows in the summer! 

Corn needs the heat; and, it needs warm soil. Seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches between 55 and 70 degrees in the morning.  Corn absorbs about 30% of its size in water.  Absorbing cold water as its swelling can lead to various diseases reducing yield or killing the plant completely.  Therefore if planning to start outside (which is best as corn has a shallow root system that does not like to be moved), ensure the last frost date has passed.  If one is in a zone where they must start their seeds indoors to achieve the right time for harvest, use organic pots that can be planted in the ground to avoid moving the babies once they have established!

If one has 65 to 90 days, they can grow corn!

According to the University of Arkansas the average days to harvest for corn runs between 65 and 95 days.  One should plan their start time based on their last frost date and how far along the plants need to be to ensure a solid harvest during the summer months.  Visit “When to Start Seeds Indoors” for more information on the best start times for seeds! 

Give corn a well draining spot and make sure the soil has lots of food and nutrients!

Corn needs well drained fertile soil and plenty of food to grow those gloriously sweet ears. Testing the soil lets one know for sure if there are serious issues to address; however,  2 steps work best  for me, to ensure the corn crop is healthy.

    1. Add fresh compost to the soil prior to planting.  Add 1 bag of compost, Black Kow Compost is my preference, to about 20 feet of garden space. A good rule of thumb is: If the ground becomes hard where the compost is mixed in, too much has been added. Compost should enhance the existing soil, not overtake it. 
    2. Mix in organic matter, i.e. used coffee grinds, leaves or dark rich topsoil if the soil is highly sandy.  

Plan to feed plants with feed once they have set at least 3 to four leaves.    Alaskan Fish Emulsion has worked wonders for my production spraying once a

Plant seeds in warm soil and within 12 inches apart

Plant seeds approximately 12 inches apart and approximately 1 ½ inches down.   Soil must be warm in the morning before planting!  Corn is wind pollinated versus bee pollinated.  This implies a few things:  1: don’t plant corn where it will be blocked from wind!  2: There should be enough corn for at least two solid side by side rows.  If only small amounts are being planted, use small squares versus long rows to ensure the corn is close enough together to achieve good pollination across plants. 

Steady water and a good fish based fertilizer does wonders

Corn needs plenty of water; without it they will struggle to produce flavorful kernels.  Water at least 1.5 inch per week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering.  A good rule of thumb is if no moisture in in the soil greater than an inch down, water. 

Companion Plants

Corn is a wonderful companion plant for many veggies; those plants that help corn grow the best are:

  • Climbing beans
  • cucumber
  • marjoram
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • squash
  • sunflowers
  • zucchini

Related Articles

Visit me on Instagram
Posted on

Growing Potatoes

French fries, waffle fries, crinkly cut fries, curly fries, baked, boiled, steamed or mashed potatoes are a staple of all of our lives.  I mean honestly would hamburgers be the same without the fry? Would gravy be the same without mashed potatoes?  There are so many things we use potatoes for.  According to the CIP at least a billion are consumed worldwide each year. On top of that potatoes are tubers, which makes them one of the easier plants to grow.  So, if you have been considering growing potatoes and it’s spring in your areas, now is the time!  

Interesting facts about the potato

Potatoes are such a large part of our food lives. What IS a potato anyway?  While we are on the topic is a potato really a vegetable?  Here are some super cool facts about this lovely plant!

  • Potatoes are actually tubers making them one of the easier plants to grow in home gardens.  They are a part of the Nightshade family of plants, which of course are known to have some very poisonous relatives! Curious enough, all parts of the potato plant actually are poisonous, EXCEPT the tubers! Which we eat as the glorious potato! 

  • In the 1890’s the US Supreme Court ruled several plants grown for the consumption of their “fruits” could legally be classified as vegetables and therefore taxed as vegetables!  This decision included the mighty potato and many other plants such as the tomato, (which is actually a berry type fruit) watermelons, lettuce, spinach, kale; stems of rhubarb, carrots, onions, garlic, turnips and other tubers like Jerusalem artichokes, etc.!  As a result, the potato is grown as a vegetable, taxed as a vegetable and is therefore legally considered, a vegetable!
  • The term “spud” for potatoes originated from the Medieval words spyd or spad which were tools used at the time as digging tools.  Of course this is the “Spade” and since spades were often used to dig potatoes, potato tubers were eventually called spud

Preparing your potato bed

Are you planning on growing potatoes? Old school farmer almanac followers will tell you, “if your dandelions are blooming your spuds should be shooting!” In other words plant them when you see those yellow flowers!  Potatoes need cooler weather, the soil needs to be 40 to germinate and they grow best in 60 to 70 degree temperatures.  If it’s too cold or wet or too hot they will not grow well.  

Before planting potatoes make sure the space selected will enable them to thrive. Potatoes need loose, well draining, slightly sandy soil with good organic matter. Those that have hard, clay soils or soil that are filled with rock would do best using raised beds or  bag containers which also work well for growing potatoes . 

All of this does not mean Potatoes are hard to grow, only that like many other plants timing and soil is essential to growing them.  For example, I’m in US Zone 7; therefore, my winters can range from too cold at times to perfect and my summers are 100% too hot.  In addition, I tend to have harder soil in places.  I will get the best results growing potatoes as a spring and fall plant and Sweet potatoes, (which want the heat) as a summer plant.  I also add a slightly sandy topsoil that contained some wood mulch in it and mix in Epsum Salt and cow manure from Black kow. 

Once your beds are ready its time to plant! So grab your spot and some soil, get that ready and and lets move on to growing potatoes!

Growing Potatoes

Planting potatoes is the easiest part of the whole process actually. There should  at least be a mention regarding the prep portion of the process for the potatoes themselves.  

First let’s discuss the ever present question, can one just use store bought potatoes?  The easy answer is yes, and I would be lying if I said I never did.  However, it’s not the best way to grow them.  Therefore, if one does use store bought make sure and choose organic.  Why though, why not?  Well the top reason is many have been sprayed and don’t reproduce as well.  Secondly,  one is never sure what kind they are.  We discussed the weather and the temperatures for potatoes to produce etc.  Potatoes in the store are not always clear as far as  their type.  Are they early producers or those that take longer to grow?  Knowing what one is growing,  especially if in a location that does not have long produce them, is paramount to a successful crop.

Prepping one’s potatoes can be as easy as dropping them in a dark location and allowing them to root.  They can also be placed in shallow jars with water and allowed to root.  Potatoes can be planted whole or cut up as long as there are eyes inclusive in the pieces.  If they are sliced up allow them a few days for the skin to harden prior to planting.  

Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep. Allow about 12 inches apart for the largest potato harvest. If limited on space and not as concerned with the size plant them around 6 inches apart.   Plant potatoes with the eyes up and cover them with about 3 to 4 inches of soil.  As they grow mound more soil around them. 

Potatoes like 1 – 2 inches of water per week, and unlike other plants prefer a deep soak in the night hours so that the soil moisture stays with them all day. This is a balancing act however, as too much water will cause your potatoes to either rot or swell.  Therefore, watch watering carefully, leaving enough water to moisten the soil but not to soak it. 

Companion plants

As with any plant there are companions that are best to plant together.  Potatoes do well when grown with:

  • Lettuce
  • Spinach
  • Scallions
  • Raddish

Plants that can enhance the flavor of your potatoes are:

  • Yarrow
  • Chamomile
  • Basil
  • Yarrow
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

According to the Spruce planting Horseradish can help potatoes become more resistant to disease. Flowers like petunias and alyssum can attract beneficial insects and tansy, coriander and catnip can help repel insects like the potato beetle.

#meetmeinthegarden at these social sites!

Instagram link
Follow Me On Instagram @omasgardens
Privacy Policy Proudly powered by WordPress