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Growing Garlic

There are few smells as well-known as garlic!  The aroma itself brings happiness and growing garlic is so much better as the flavor of fresh garlic cannot be beat!

 

Categories of Garlic

Although there are many different kinds of garlic most can be classified in two distinct categories known as Soft Neck and Hard Neck.

Soft neck garlic:

Soft neck garlic has stronger white outer layers of skin that makes them best for long periods of storage.  These are often found in grocery stores or markets. Soft neck garlic does not have the long flowering stems found on hard neck garlic.  This feature makes them better for braiding and they actually grow best in milder winter areas.

Hard neck garlic:  

True to its name, hard neck garlic sends out a long woody flowering stem that generates edible scapes.  Hard neck is also cold weather hardy so it’s best for areas that have stronger winters. In contrast to soft neck, it has a thinner more papery skin that is easier to peel.  However, this thinner skin means that it will not store as long as your soft neck varieties.

Elephant garlic is often listed as its own category; however, it is not. It does fit within either the soft neck or the hard neck varieties yet it is worth a call out as it produces the largest of the bulbs with only 4 to 6 bulbs per garlic head and has the mildest of the flavors.    

Growing Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest plants to grow with very few enemies.  In addition it offers some of the best natural protection making it a great companion plant for a large range of plants.  One can have the best crops by following these simple tips

  • Plan to plant your garlic in the fall.  Allow for approximately 4 to 6 weeks before your first cold spell hits your area.  Garlic be grown in early January; however its best in fall for two reasons: 1: garlic really needs a cold spell to set well and planting in the winter ensures this process.  2:  they need to have strong established roots by spring so that the plant can then focus on a large healthy garlic head.
  • Garlic takes approximately 6 months to fully form. This means once planted in fall they will be in your beds throughout your spring growing period.  As such, choose your location wisely.  Think about the plants you plan to grow in spring knowing you will be planting around them during this time.  
  • Grow garlic in full sun locations.  For heavy heat areas plan for some spots with some shade in the hottest parts of the day.

 

 

  • Separate your bulbs from the head, leave the paper skin on them and plant them within 2 days of separation.  Make sure you select the largest and healthiest bulbs from each garlic head.

 

  • Plant in well-drained soil with good organic matter making sure you have worked the soil so that its soft and pliable for your garlic to grow in. Place a bit of Epsom and bone mill or fish fertilizer in the soil prior to dropping them in!  
  • Dig the holes approximately 2-4 inches deep.  Sites will state to list them 6 inches apart. I have pushed this at times and planted them 3 inches apart.  I would not recommend any closer as you want the bulbs to have plenty of room to grow.
  • If you planted last year, practice rotating your garlic annually this will deter returning pests to your area!

One may be tempted to grow garlic from the stores;  however, I don’t recommend this. You will not know for sure what type you have or how they were grown. Yes,  garlic can seem expensive at first; however, keep in mind you will get a full head of garlic from each bulb planted.  In addition if dried and stored properly one will be able to use their own garlic for continued growth season after season going forward.

Companion Planting

On a personal note I love to scatter garlic throughout my beds. Growing them where I have open spaces or boarders. It offers a natural repellent for  plants and can deter deer and rabbit making it an exceptional companion plant.  Here I have placed it all along the back in the my lettuce and cabbage beds to help detour pests. 

 

 

 

 

Pests deterred by garlic

  • Gnats
  • Spider Mites
  • Aphids
  • Snails
  • Ants

Plants that benefit from garlic

  • Fruit trees
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Beets
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Potatoes
  • Carrots
  • Eggplants
  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli Kohlrabi
  • Roses
  • Geraniums

Do not grow garlic around

  • asparagus
  • peas
  • beans
  • sage
  • parsley or
  • onions (onions and garlic attract the same enemies so it’s best not to plant them together)

Quick Video On Planting Garlic

 

 

 

Accompanying Articles

Knowing When to Harvest Your Garlic

Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

 

 

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Growing Serranos

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by www.Vegogarden.com !

Growing Serrano peppers is a joy. These peppers are similar to a Jalapeno with a much longer thinner body and a bit of a hotter taste. Although, I have personally found the Serrano Chili's flavor to be smoother than the jalapeno, making the heat seem much milder. These shiny green peppers are also red or yellow or orange depending on how long they are left on the plant.

Serranos are simply a wonderful pepper for the garden one plant can provide as many as a 100 peppers in a season. They are also extremely easy to grow or pickle and can be used in any recipe where a jalapeno has traditionally been used.

Tips for Growing Serranos!

  • Plant Serrano's after all fear of frost has passed; or, start indoors using a heat pad to ensure soil is warm for germination. 
  • Once planted outdoors use a well drained loamy soil with good organic matter and some compost.  I use a bag of Black Cow Compost mixed in with the soil.
  • Serrano's do best in full sun.  In zones 7 and above it can get upwards of a hundred degrees and Serrano peppers do well even in the heat; so, plant them in a sunny spot.  

  • Water Serrano's once every three to four days very deeply rather than every day. This promotes strong roots that keeps them healthy even in harsh weather.
  • Serrano's grow well with a little bit of used Coffee grinds once a month along with Epsom salt and Fish Emulsion sprayed on their leaves. I prefer Alaska Fish Emulsion .
Sorrano Peppers grown in raised bed www.Vegogarden.com ! Lovely boots by www.WesternChief.com
  • Plan accordingly for space with Serrano's making sure to allow 18 inches in between each plant for the leaves to spread.
  • Plan to cage Serrano's or provide some type of staking as  branches tend to get heavy when producing peppers.

Companion Plants

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by Vego Garden! Haul garden gear in style with Vego Garden bags!

Marigolds, chives, garlic, onions, sunflowers, beans, tomatoes, corn, zinnias all grow well together with Serrano peppers!

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Amazingly Edible Sunflower

 

It's no secret I love Sunflowers.  They’re on my fence, in my yard and make up about 60% of my tepees and arbors!  However, let's talk about the amazingly edible sunflower plant!  And not just seeds, all of the plant from the roots to the stalks to the leaves, petals and the seeds are edible.  The majority of the entire sunflower can be eaten.  It's quite amazing actually that most only know of the seeds; and, is the exact reason for this quick series starting with the leaves of the sunflower plants.    

Let's Talk Sunflower Leaves!

Sunflower leaves are simply a joy to me.  Why?  They are so large, so strong and thick they are like pieces of leather on larger sunflower plants. They are beautiful to look at in a garden adding depth and color, texture and even height.   The giant leaves add shade to plants on hot afternoons, helping to extend the lives of cold crops if grown above them. All of this is enough for one to love them.   Imagine the excitement when discovering they’re also edible!  I won't lie, sunflowers have a bite that's hard to explain; it's an extremely unique bitter flavor. Nutty in a way almost peppery as well.  Lets look at ways to eat them!

Young Shoots

Young sunflower shoots are edible microgreens!  Unlike their older siblings that get bitter with age, the microgreens are super soft, have a thick feel and at this point are actually sweet.  Shoots are often grown in window gardens and used on salads and on sandwiches. Let some of the seeds fall each season and the yard will be so full there will be no issues sacrificing many of the babies to the microgreen category!  

Tender Leaves

Tender leaves, those that are still young on soft stalks can be eaten raw in salads. The entire leaf can be eaten at this stage without removing the veins.  Although, they actually taste slightly more bitter to me at this stage believe it or not, I prefer the mid adult leaves.   One can soften the flavor some by removing the center vein of the leaf. 

Large Adult Leaves

Large adult leaves can be cooked like greens, boiled, sauteed or steamed with salt, garlic and butter.  The older they get the tougher they get and the longer they take to cook. When using the super large leaves, boiling first is best with a water refresh.   I like to harvest the leaves in the mid range size prior to blooming.  Once flowers bloom the leaves naturally start to die down.   

I did say they are like the bitter lettuces, with a bite that leaves you wondering how to describe them. Serving with savory dishes compliments the bite of this beautiful green!  They are also wonderful with mushrooms.  The earthy flavor of mushrooms  complements the greens well and they do great with fatty meats.

Here is a recipe for eating with fatty meats

    • 5 to 6 midsize Sunflower leaves
    • 1 quarter purple onion
    • 3 to 4 (or more if your like me 5) garlic cloves 
    • Balsamic vinegar
    • Olive oil
    • Salt
    • Crushed pepper 
    • Butter
    1. Wash, remove the center and main side veins from the leaves. Add olive oil to pan and heat while dicing garlic and red onion. Add Onion and garlic to oil and saute until slightly brown on a low simmer
    2. While cooking garlic and onion boil water and blanch the greens until slightly soft and the water is a soft green.  Drain greens and add to butter, garlic and online mix.
    3. Stir fry  the greens for a moment coating them with the oil. Add a few tablespoons of water.  Add pepper flakes and stir fry in.
    4. Steam well for a moment and then add a generous amount of balsamic vinegar. Lower heat and let simmer for another 10 minutes or so.  If liquid evaporates add more vinegar!
    5. Once the leaves are stir fried and the liquid has evaporated some add butter to the pan and allow it to sizzle

Add salt and pepper and serve hot!

 

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Growing Rudbeckia

Did you know the name Rudbeckia means encouragement and motivation?  And if there is anything people may be needing right now it’s encouragement and motivation.  Growing Rudbeckia is a joy; and, I always felt their name fits perfectly.  The meaning of course just explains why one tends to feel so happy when they see them in a yard.  With all of their brilliant yellow they are almost like mini suns, shining in corners and filling up sunny spots. 

About Rudbeckia

There are around  25 different varieties of Rudbeckia; however, their most common name is black-eyed Susan or Becky’s.  Black eyed Susan’s also come in different categories with  petals that range from solid yellow, to slightly burnt orange, to extremely black or dark brown centers that spread out towards bright yellow tips.  I love having all of them all around my yard.

Rudbeckia is similar to Echinacea  in that their roots can be used in some home medicinal remedies.  I hope to look further into this as spring comes closer! If there are plans to use ones Becky’s in medicinal remedies then consider growing several spots around the garden space.  As well as planting them at different intervals.  This ensures as the roots of one plant is being harvested several others are growing in their stead.

Growing Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia can be grown by seed or by division of established plants. Division is simpler as Rudbeckia seeds again, similar to Echinacea, need winters cold to germinate.  If planting by seed sow in the fall when winter is just coming on. Doing this will ensure  enough of a cold spell to germinate well when spring arrives.

Give Becky’s plenty of sun, and well drained soil. Deadhead them to promote more flowers or to stop them from spreading. Otherwise allow the seeds to fall and they will return each season naturally.

image provided by Pinterest

Companion Planting with Rudbeckia

There are so many plants that will grow well with Rudbeckia.  Their flowers for sure bring the bees.  Therefore, just having them in the garden supports any vegetables one grows.  Some of my favorite plants to grow with Rudbeckia are:

  • Zinnias
  • Globe thistle
  • Sedum
  • Perennial hibiscus
  • Echinacea
  • Ornamental grasses
  • Dill
  • Basil
  • Oregano
  • Sunflowers
  • Strawberries
  • Squash

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Health Benefit of Tomatoes

This week I started tomato seeds for the spring garden!  I grow them becasuse fresh is best and the health benefit of tomatoes make them even better.  However, I just can’t help that my mind does not think of the benefits whenever I grow tomatoes .  No, it immediately invisions a fresh BLT, (Bacon Lettuce and Tomato sandwich).  I mean, what better health benefit of tomatoes is there then the fact that one can lay a beautiful red slice across a mound of bacon! 

The meatless part of me loves them too. Thoughts of red tomatoes lying on top of fresh lettuce smothered with ranch dressing abound. Or, the way they cook into a sauce that can be lavishly spread across noodles, or bread or mixed into peppers for a bight of tomato heat! 

There is no doubt one of the benefits of tomatoes is their taste and versatility! After all, they are a main source of Umami, that savory flavor that combines “the five basic tastes of sweetness, sourness, bitterness, and saltiness together in one bite!  However, with just a bit of research one will find the health benefit of tomatoes are also numerous. There is so much more to this red, yellow, purple or green beauty than simply their taste! 

About the Tomato

The tomato is actually a fruit! This does make sense as tomatoes are full of juice when sliced open.  However, the Solanum lycopersicum  is most often used as a vegetable.  Tomatoes originated from South and Central America, domesticated and cultivated from the indeginious people of Mexico.

The nutrition factors of tomatoes are quite interesting!  One of the first things that jumps out when researching their benefits is the amount of water one tomato holds! According to an article on healthline.com they actually consist mainly of water! 95% water; and, that is a lot of water in one portion of food!  However, they also contain several nutrients all which help one thrive from a holistic health perspective. 

Top health benefit of tomatoes

   

 

Vitamin C:  One medium tomato could provide as much as 28% of the recommended daily intake of vitamin C.  Like Orange Juice in a red piece of candy!

 

Potassium: I personally feel the benefits of potassium are underrated, it is afterall an electrolyte.  According to Healthline potassium is a mineral  that produces “positively charged ions,” when dissolved in water.  Now, how interesting is that considering 95% of the tomato is in fact water? Potassium dissolves into one’s body acting as, “positive and negative ions” literally conducting electricity as a positive charge helping to regulate fluid, nerve and muscle contractions.  Vitamin K1:  Important to the bodies ability to create blood clotting and healthy bones!

Vitamin B9: Used for tissue growth and cell functions! Lycopene: That special ingredient that actually makes the tomato red, generally the brighter the color red of the tomato the more Lycopene is present and is strongest in the skin of the tomato.  Lycopene is an antioxidant, helpful in keeping the bodies free radical levels in balance and protecting against things like cancer, diabetes, heart disease and Alzheimers. Healthline sighted, “Most red and pink foods contain some lycopene. Tomatoes and foods made with tomatoes are the richest sources of this nutrient.”

Grow Your Own

If one truly wants to appreciate the taste and health of tomatoes one should grow their own.  Many of our foods today are sprayed and grocery store tomatoes are often harvested and transported in their green stage making them immature.  Food companies can be known to use artificial ethylene gas spray on tomatoes to improve their beautiful red coloring during this immature stage.  This process, although good at exposing color, puts a damper on their natural development and hinders the flavor resulting in a more `tasteless” tomato.

Home grown tomatoes give so much flavor to ones recipes. There is afterall a reason us gardeners often say, “it tastes so much better when it’s fresh.”   So, the next time you visit the store and see a package of tomato seeds in a tall isle display, grab some for your home garden! Find the health and flavor of fresh grown tomatoes in your own backyard or allotment garden!

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Tips for Germinating Peppers

Growing peppers can sometimes be a royal pain.  Peppers tend to have some very specific things that need to be done to ensure a clear path to peppery goodness.They can be very sensitive when small and highly subject to root rot if the soil is too moist or too cold. This leads at times to difficult germination.    As such,  here are a few quick tips for germinating peppers!

Use a Heat mat for germination

Peppers, even most of the sweet or bell peppers, need to have at least a 70° to 85° degree soil temperature to germinate.  I stubbornly refused to get one for years.  I do have peppers every year so it’s not a complete loss to go without a mat. However, I struggled with germination on many hot peppers simply because of their strict need for heated soil.  Once a mat was obtained results in the number of plants actually germinating improved right away!  Vivosun has some very good options for mats. They are also terribly simple to use so highly recommend this gem.   

 

Use Peat pods or well draining soil to germinate seeds

Peppers tend to like moist but not wet soil.  This is another area I was a bit stubborn about as I love a soil mix I make myself.  This self made mix was perfect for older mature plants however, it was not the best for germinating peppers.  Using a heavy soil can lead to no germination, or germination followed by struggling plants due to root rot.   Peat pods are simple to find and often come in bags of 50 – 200 or more. I prefer the Jiffy brand!

Keep  seeds in an area that allows for humidity while germinating

Peppers need humidity for germination far more than many other seeds grown in one’s garden.  As such, make sure and utilize a seed starting dome planter or a greenhouse to control humidity.

Move quickly into a larger pot once germinated and place them in good lighting 

Once the seeds have germinated move them off the heat mat, and place them in a larger pot.  One where they can spend at least the next 60 days.  During this mid life,  (where they are not in the ground but still inside) continue to use high draining soil.

 

 

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When to Start Seeds Indoors – Timing is Everything!

“When do I start my seeds?” 

It’s not surprising that this is the question I get the most.  After all, there are so many plants, so many time zones, and so many ways to start a seed.  Many new timers are confused about when to start, how to start or what to start when it comes to seeds for their garden. This is also not surprising as growing plants from seeds is one of the most natural things a gardener can do!  The truth is this a great question! Why? Because, for most time zones there are only so many growing days in the season!  One does not want to use the bulk of that time growing their plant, they want to use the bulk of that time harvesting food.    Starting seeds indoors, helps ensure this can occur as quickly as possible; and, plants are as strong as can be once they are transplanted outside!   

Like several things it often comes down to a few good tips.  For me, after three decades of trying, failing, trying and succeeding, those few quick tips have come down to the three “T’s,” Timing, Tools, and Tending!  This article will focus on Timing and one of the best ways I have found to determine when it’s time to start ones seeds! 

“Is there a Simpler Way”

Beleive it or not knowing when to start your seeds can be quite simple; and, many an issue can be resolved by first gathering three bits of information:

1.  Last Frost Date:  There is usually a spring frost before spring is consistently warm. This last spring frost is known as the “Last Frost Date.” The date in ones area where the last of the cold hits, and the consistent warmth of spring actually starts.   There are multiple places on the web to find out where your last frost date is.  My favorite is the  Farmers Almanac First and Last Frost Dates  calander!   In most cases, this is the date you can consider starting to plant outdoors!

2.  Time to Harvest: Time to harvest is litterally the time it takes a plant to actually produce fruit! The grwoth time before your eating your produce!  The “Time to Harvest” is most often found on the front or back of a seed packet and can range anywhere from 25 days up to a much as 100 days.  

3. Growth Time before Transplanting:  The time one wants their plants to have to grow prior to planting them outside.   A good range is 30% to 50% of the total “Time to Harvest (2).”   The larger percentage of course meaning the plants will be indoors longer.

“Ok so now what?”

So  you know your “Last Frost Date”, your “Time to Harvest” and the “Growth Time before Transplanting” now what? Utilize the “Growth Time before Transplanting” and your “Last Frost Date” to back into the seed start date.   

For example: Hot Peppers can take up to 100 days before the ‘Time to Harvest” is reached.  Targeting 50% of that means the “Growth time before Transplanting” is approximatly 50 days.  Lets look at that example using my zones!

    1. Last Frost Date in My Zone:  April 1 
    2. Time to Harvest for Hot Peppers: 100 Days  
    3. Growth Time Before Planting Outside:  50 Days (50% of Time to Harvest)
    4. Date to start seeds: February 11 
  • Seeds would need to be started by February 11th to allow for a “Growth Time before Transplanting” of at lease 50 days (50% of the “Time to Harvest”)  by the time I reached my “Last Frost Date”!   

There you Go! Now get out there and grow some seeds!

Comming Soon:

How to Grow From Seeds – Tools Are Everything!

 

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Growing Healthy Roses

Growing healthy roses can be one of the most enjoyable things to do… it can also be frustrating as they tend to get hit with things like Black Spot or other similar diseases.  Here are a few Quick Tips to help your roses thrive:

 

  •  Keep the Leaves of your roses Dry!  Always water your roses from the base at the ground level.  Keeping your leaves dry will detour common rose diseases like Black Spot.

  • Put Space Between your Plants! Plant your roses with a minimum of three to four feet between them.  This can do wonders in keeping diseases from jumping from plant to plant within your space.

  • Feed your Roses Epsom Salt!  Roses need Magnesium sulfate to grow strong and using a monthly regime of Epsom Salt will help keep them that way.  Read more about Epsom Salt on the Quick Hit:  Epsom Salt Once a Month!

  • Use Coffee Grinds in your Rose Beds! Roses like a slightly acidic soil.  Coffee grinds in the beds add organic matter and a small amount of acidity.  Feeding them monthly with your left over grinds is a natural way to feed your beauties!  read more about Coffee Grinds in the article: Using Coffee Grinds in your Garden.

  • Add Banana Peals to your Rose Beds! Banana peals have a high level of natural potassium.  Adding them to your soil is a great way to increase your roses potassium levels naturally and you don’t even have to decompose them. Simply bury them below your roses and watch them thrive!

Managing Black Spot

Even with these tips most rose gardens will face Black Spot, (also known as Diplocarpon rosae) on the leaves of their roses.  Black Spot turns the leaves yellow and a classic black spot and will spread quickly from leave to leave.

Black spot hits in cool humid weather normally between 70 and 80 degrees.  Which is why it’s commonly seen attacking our Texas roses in the spring time.  There are a few things one can do to avoid black spot.

    • Follow No Water on Leaves rules as listed above!
    • Spray a Neem Oil Mix of 2 tsp. of Neem to 1 Gallon of Water and 3 tsp. of soap and spray your leaves. I use Rejuve Naturals.
    • Use a Baking Soda Mix of 2 tsp.  baking soda to 1 gallon of water and 2 tsp. of dish soap to create an alkaline chemical condition on the roses and spray it on the leaves.  The alkaline makes it difficult for the fungus to adhere to the leaves!

Using some of these small steps will help your roses perform better for you all year-long!

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