Tag: #Oma

Posted on

Managing Powdery Mildew

Your walking around the garden looking at the all the beauty and notice this white powder that looks like its floating across your leaves.   What is that?  Well if you have had lots of rain, lots of humidity or have plants growing in a tight spot then you are more than likely dealing with powdery mildew. 

Powdery Mildew showing up on my Gourds!

About Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease that actually has several different strains.  Figures it would want to ensure it is available to a wide variation of plants!  It is most active in temperatures that range from around 68 to 90 degrees nights being the cooler of the range.   This means one will find it more often in their spring and fall beds which is right where my issues are showing up!  It’s also more often to show up during heavy rainy periods with high humidity.

Because there are multiple strains you will not always find it spreading; however, if you have like families of plants together watch out.  It can take over quickly if not cared for.  For example if you plant your Cucurbita together (Squash, Pumpkin etc) what ever strain hits one will quickly spread to the next.

Powdery Mildew on my pumpkins which are growing right next to cucumbers

What is on your Zinnias (another plant that is susceptible) will not effect your roses It will however effect other plants that are members of the same composite family.  Powdery Mildew is air born so be careful when removing effected leaves and never place them in your compost.

Easy Tips for Managing Powdery Mildew

  • The most common recipe is Baking Soda(1 tbsp); Dish-washing soap (2 tsp) and one gallon of water.  Spray this on your plants when the sun is low so as not to burn them.  Baking soda can also be strong for some plants so test them one day and check them the next before full application.  Adjust the tbsp down accordingly to 1/2 tbsp if needed.
  • Neem Oil, the pure organic cold pressed oil not what is pre-mixed, is also great.  Mix 1 tsp in with your baking soda. You can also substitute Neem Oil at 2 tsp in place of baking powder.
  • Milk has been reported to help stop the growth of powdery mildew.  I have not tried this recipe. I plan to test it out this month with the issues I have going on right now. I will update on that result!  Mix is 60/40 with milk at 60%.

Associated Articles

Visit Oma’s Store Front!

Posted on

Using Sunflower Stalks in Your Garden!

If you’re a Gardner like me you’re always looking for ways to re-use!   One spends so much time and money on their gardens anyway.  Why not find ways to utilize the plants they grow, (outside of the obvious food of course)!  This was my thought when I started investigating using Sunflower or Okra stalks in my vegetable beds.   I mean Sunflowers are just a beautiful addition to any garden and I plant them everywhere!
Skyscrapers along the back
Mammoth Sunflowers by the Arbor
Skyscrapers Around the Pond
Corn and sunflowers

What really grabbed my attention was the size of them.   Some of these plants grow so tall and the stalks are so large that it just seemed right to use them in the gardens if possible.  As a result, over the last season, I have been testing out both sunflower and okra stalks as tepees and as slat holders in my space.  Here are some tips I have learned on reusing these giant plants.

Tips on using Sunflower and Okra Stalks

  • The stalks of the skyscraper sunflowers can range from three to four inches around at the largest point.  Some even get as high as fifteen feet.  These can make beautiful natural poles for beans etc. As such, if they are in the right spot you may consider not cutting them at all.
    Skyscraper Sunflower sawed for drying

    Plant your veining plants at the base of them and allow them to simply crawl their way up.

However, If you need to utilize your stalks in a spot other than where they grew,  pull them up and clean them for drying.

 

  • Utilize a small saw to cut them at the base of the plant.  After removing several of them I found it easier, (at least on the larger plants ) to cut them first and deal with the roots later.

    Saw the stalks at the base of the plant
  • Prepare stalks for drying by removing any leaves, stems, flowers etc remaining on the plants.  Do  NOT cut the leaves or stems all the way to the stalk!  Allow about an inch of length to remain.
    Leave about an inch of the stem on your stalks while cleaning

    This sounds odd; however, once dry this tip hardens, and provides great handles for string, twine or rope.

  • Drying is very important.  Okra stalks were harder to dry.  I lost several to mold while attempting to dry them over the fall and winter season.  The weather was too cold and wet.   Sunflower stalks dried much faster and easier with less loss.   As such if your planning on using Okra it’s best to grow them in the spring and use the summer sun to dry them with.
  • Find a place that has full sun and keep them off the ground.   An arbor can provide the perfect spot!
    Sunflower stalks drying on the arbor

  • Sunflower stalks took about 45 days to fully dry.  At that point they were ready for the garden.
  • For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together.  It’s also helpful to dig out the area the  tepees will fill prior to tying them up.

    Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!

You can find Sunflower and Okra stalks all over my beds.  The larger stalks were used for zucchini and Gourds

Zucchini took up lots of space before the stalks.
Stalks in place, Zucchini now off the ground!
Underestimated the weight of the gourds! Vines were hanging low.
Larger Stalks held the weight lifting them above the plants below them
Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!
Smaller stalks make perfect bean or cantaloupe tepees.

Overall I have been very satisfied with the beauty and versatility these wonderful plants add to a garden.  Once your flowers are gone, before you throw them out, look around your area and make sure there is not a place their stalks are needed!   Here is a quick video to cover a bit of the content on this article!

Accompanying Content

 

Visit Oma’s Store Front For Handmade Organic Products
Posted on

Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers

The Skyscraper Sunflower is just one of the funnest sunflowers to grow! It is SO large, so tall and so bright that I do believe every Bee in the nation can see it!  Or at least it seems that way as they all fight for space across its giant Yellow flowers.

About Skyscraper Sunflowers

The Skyscraper sunflower earns its name as it is one of the tallest sunflowers there is to grow!  This baby here grew fifteen feet high and was actually slightly taller than the roof of my house! As a result, you can see from the photo above the flower head was a good thirteen inches across.  Not only are the flowers beautiful the drying stage and the seeds are beautiful as well.

Skyscrapers also produce the largest sunflower seeds making them the best to eat! Their colors range from bright white with gray stripes to light and dark grays and their seed heads are just amazing to look at!

Tips on Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers

  • Skyscrapers grow best in zones 3-9 and need full sun all day long if possible.
  • SF Home Gates recommends tilling the soil to around two feet deep in prep for these giants.  That may be the best for sure as their root systems are solid.  However, I will be honest I did not till more than 10 inches and they still grew well.
  • Sunflowers like well-drained soil, no water should be standing as it will cause root rot.
  • Sow seeds directly in the ground after all danger of frost.  Seeds can take approximately 10 days to germinate.
  • Water deeply two times a week rather than short bursts of watering each day. This will help your sunflowers grow deeper root systems preparing them for the heat.  You can see more about watering in the article,  "Helping Plants Survive the Heat"
  • These plants are large so give them room to spread.  Plant 2-3 seeds per section approximately 18-24 inches apart.  Thin to the strongest plant in the grouping once established.

  • Plants should mature in approximately 60-75 days.
  • Use fish emulsion once a month on these giants!

Challenges with Skyscrapers Sunflowers

  • Aphids love sunflowers!  This is actually what makes them such a good companion plant as I swear they will go there before your other plants. Be on the look out for them under their giant leaves and act quickly or they will soon look like this!
  • Ants will often congregate around sunflowers you can sprinkle DE at the base of the plants to avoid this.
  • Sunflower Months of course are one of the largest predators as they actively seek sunflowers to lay their eggs in.  Read about managing sunflower moths in The Article "The Sunflower Moth"

Companion Plants

  • Squash
  • Beans
  • Corn
  • Cabbage
  • Cucumbers
  • Peppers
  • Tomatoes

Find Sky Scraper Sunflower Seeds in Oma's Store Front!

Posted on

Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

Garlic Chives are my favorite herb to grow; and, it's not because of the culinary uses, although those are amazing too.  It's singularly because of the beautiful white flowers that sit on long sturdy stems from around July to October.  It's no wonder I received so many requests to confirm what these lovely flowers where when posting some of their pictures!

About Garlic Chives

Garlic chives, sometimes called Chinese chives, are a part of the Allium family and are similar to onion chives.  You can certainly see the family resemblance if you look at the grassy leaves and rounded flower tops.  However, onion chives have more of a purple flower with rounder hollow chive leaves.  Garlic chives on the other hand have dark green flat shiny leaves and brilliantly white flowers.

Tips for Growing Garlic Chives

  • Garlic chives are perennials that can be grown up to Zone 3 and planted in spring either from their seeds (which there is plenty of) or from separation of their root base.
  • Although garlic chives are very hardy, they are most week when young.  They have very tiny tender leaves that are easy to mistake for grass or weeds if growing in an area that is not established for chives.
    60 day old chives

    As such, if growing from seed it's best to start them in planters and move them to their permanent home at around 30 days old.  Or, be strategic in where you plant them so you recognize them when the seedlings start to grow.

  • Chives can grow in full sun. By full sun I mean all day in some of the hottest areas, even those crazy southern states.   They can also do well in shade, on a patio in a pot or under a tree.  They won't however produce as many flowers.
  • Although chives can take the heat and are drought tolerant they do best (grow the largest with the most flowers) with a moderately moist soil.
  • Garlic chives flowers  give their best show after they have established their roots for a season and improve as they get older!  These chives you see here are four years old!  They are quite happy with large mounds of chives and many flowers!

Things to Consider When Growing Chives

Managing the Seeds

Garlic chives make a beautiful addition to a boarder or as you see here growing in front of taller plants.  Gardeners however, need to be aware of their seeds!   Each one of the individual flowers will form a seed pod.  

Start of a seed pod on Garlic Chive flowers.

In all honesty the seed stage of the Garlic Chive is quite beautiful.    Flowers will stay on the stems for at least thirty days while the seeds form and the flowers dry out.  There will be many many seeds and they will propagate themselves where ever they fall.   However, what is left behind on the plant is dried pods that make very interesting dried flower arrangements.  When going through the seed stage, to avoid issues, one should place their plants where they either do not care where the seeds fall, or simply cut the flowers and take them in to enjoy.

Companion planting with Garlic Chives

Planting garlic chives in your garden adds both beauty and sensibility as they are a natural deterrent for insects!  Gardening Know How  (one of my favorite sites) even reports they deter black spot on roses and scabs on apples.  I actually have them growing under my apple tree!      Honestly there are chives growing in multiple places around my yard.   In addition as you can see from the short video below the bees absolutely flock to these flowers. so if your planning a fall garden, having garlic chives blooming should be a must in the drive for strong pollination!

Some key plants that benefit particularly well from chives are:

  • Carrots
  • Grapes
  • Roses
  • Tomatoes
  • Corn
  • Okra
  • Squash
  • Peppers

It is said to be an issue to grow garlic with peas and onions.  I grew my garlic chives within two feet of peas this year and found no issue.  This however may be because the garlic chive does not have the traditional bulb that  garlic has.   Unfortunately, one season does not make a trend as such I will be testing these combinations out some more.

Uses for Garlic Chives

  • Both the flowers and the chives themselves can be eaten.
  • Place chives or the flowers in salads.
  • Use chives for stews or to season meats while cooking them.   I love clipping long strands of chives, placing them on the grill and laying the meats on top of them.  The smell is amazing!
  • Here is a quick video on growing chives!

 

Growing and Planning for Garlic Chives

Posted on

Growing Zinnias!

About Zinnias

Enjoying My Zinnias

I find it hard sometimes to actually say how enjoyable Zinnias are.  They are one of the only flowers that is simultaneously wild and controlled!  One can clearly envision them sprawling across the dry grasslands of South America, growing in an urban garden or, in a planter on ones patio!  Regardless of where their placed growing zinnias, at least for me, is a must in my space! Zinnias come in a rainbow of colors promising summer long beauty and are almost maintenance free. And, as far as pollinators go I'll steal from Kevin Costner’s “Field of Dreams,” and say if you plant them they will come!

How to Grow Zinnias

Zinnias are one of the easiest annual plants to grow.  They do well in full sun 6 or more hours and even hot southern states can trust them to survive.  There are several different kinds of Zinnias, tall from 4-5 feet or, dwarf for boarders and containers.

Tall Zinnias at about four feet.

With so many options every spot in your garden can have color.  Zinnias ideal soil is fertile and well drained; however, they need very little prep.   I honestly do not do much for the soil outside of compost.  I simply choose a spot with good sun, loosen it up and drop the seeds. They don't let me down!  In about 30 days I'll have that beautiful color.  Therefore, plant your Zinnias and then sit back, relax and watch them grow.

Tips for Growing Zinnias

  • Plant Zinnia seeds when temperatures are above 50 degrees with no risk of frost.  Many sites recommend spacing of twelve inches, however I simply sprinkle their seeds randomly in a spot and thin them as they begin to grow.
  • Zinnias are not a good transplant flower. As such, plant them where you wish them to live.  If they must be started early ensure a nice size seeding pot and move them before they’re root bound.
  • Cut spent flower heads often. Cleaning the flowers ensures new flowers all summer long. Drop the seeds if they are in a place you wish them to return year after year or store them for replanting.
  • Zinnias are exceptional cut flowers lasting weeks on your table.
  • This flower can take the heat! However, they do like moist well drained soil. If you have extremely high temp days plan to water them daily during that time or locate in a part shade spot.
  • Zinnias sometimes shed their leaves from the bottom up.  This is caused from high temperature stress or by watering the leaves on the bottom of the plants.  If this occurs simply remove the lower leaves that have browned.
  • Water Zinnias from the bottom only!  They can be prone to powdery mildew and getting their leaves wet expounds this issue. Use soaker hoses or drip hoses or just make sure your holding your sprinkler handle at the ground level.
  • If you have selected tall zinnias don’t underestimate their size. Plan your space knowing how wide and tall they will be (up to five feet tall and two or more feet across).

Zinnias grow fast allowing  fearless experimentation for first time gardeners.  Therefore, don’t be afraid to place them throughout your beds.  

Zinnias as a Companion Plant

  • Zinnias are companion plants for ANY vegetable garden. They are guaranteed to bring the pollinators.  Bees and butterflies constantly fly around them so, if you need pollination they’re a must.
  • Zinnias attract wasps which are beneficial natural enemies to many non beneficial bugs.
  • They attract hummingbirds which eat white flies an enemy of tomatoes, cucumbers and potatoes. And let's just all take a moment to agree hummingbirds are cool.

Zinnias ability to draw pollinators is so good for your space, and the flowers are so beautiful that a small video is really the best way to show you this awesome flower.

Do you grow Zinnias in your garden?  What tips do you have to share?

Grab your favorite photo and visit Oma’s Custom Art Corner!

One Red Pepper in the Making
Posted on

Growing Dill

About Dill

Dill looks like a plant that comes right out of a fairy garden! It has an almost magical quality with long green stems that branch out into clusters forming an umbrella of bright yellow flowers adorning wispy blue-green fern like leaves. The flowers also make dill nice to have in your bed as they seed profusely making growing dill so easy guaranteeing its return over and over again.

Dill is a biennial and comes from  Mediterranean and southeastern European areas.  It is most commonly known for its wonderful culinary uses where every part of the plant, from its stems to the flowers and seeds can be eaten.   It is a member of the parsley family, which makes it one of those aromatic plants known as umbellifers.  As such, it’s not uncommon to catch the smell when walking through any garden where dill is growing; or, find many pollinators like wasps, bees and butterflies visiting the site.

How to Grow

Dill can be grown in containers or outdoors in natural beds.  It can also be grown indoors as long as it has a bright spot with good sun for at least 6 hours a day.   However, once a decision has been made on where to place it, don’t move it!  Dill has a very large tap-root system that does not like to be moved and would likely not transplant well if attempted.

Dill likes sandy soil or well-drained soil that is around 70 degrees when planting.  It will grow taller and stronger in full sun however it does prefer consistent moderate weather that is not either too hot or too cold so plan for some shade if you are in a spot with extremely high heat. Sow seeds broadly a quarter to 1" deep and within 30 days of sprouting thin to about 12" apart. 

Tips

  • Dill ferns can be cut as soon as they have four branches on them and should be harvested before the flowers bloom for the most optimum flavor.
  • If more ferns are preferred plant fern leaf, for more seeds plant mammoth; or, go wild and plant both to ensure a large supply for canning, garnishing, soups and seasoning.
  • Dill can grow from three to four feet tall and may need support with stakes so try to plan it in a space that is protected from high winds.
  • Harvest dill when the umbel, the flower heard, has turned brown and the stem is still somewhat green.
  • Black Swallow tail butterflies love dill; it would be surprising if they did not show up.  If you want to avoid having them eat the ferns plant several spots around your space and choose one for them; then, migrate them to that section as they appear and enjoy their beauty.

Companions

Dill grows well with cucumbers (of course!) along with cabbage plants,  corn, asparagus, onions lettuce, squash or basil.  Dill does not do well with carrots.

Characteristics:

  • Height:  24 to 48 inches tall
  • Width:  12 to 24 inches
  • Zone:  3 to 11; can be grown in summer in zones 3 and 8 and winter in 8-11
  • Maturity: harvesting can start around 30-45 days with seeds at 60-90

Associated Content

Sigh up for articles from Oma: Oma's Home Page

Privacy Policy Proudly powered by WordPress