Tag: garden

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Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Biting into a bright yellow ear of corn tastes just like summer; fresh, crisp and sweet.   I love sweet corn and can literally eat it like candy from the yard; so much so, I even assume when growing corn at least 30% of the yield will never make it in the house.  It’s a snack I quickly grab while working in the garden, or a quick breakfast if I’m out early.   This alone makes growing corn, sweet corn the perfect summer treat; and, like many others I simply feel growing corn in the backyard, allotment or kitchen garden cool!

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is the taste of summer because it only grows in the summer! 

Corn needs the heat; and, it needs warm soil. Seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches between 55 and 70 degrees in the morning.  Corn absorbs about 30% of its size in water.  Absorbing cold water as its swelling can lead to various diseases reducing yield or killing the plant completely.  Therefore if planning to start outside (which is best as corn has a shallow root system that does not like to be moved), ensure the last frost date has passed.  If one is in a zone where they must start their seeds indoors to achieve the right time for harvest, use organic pots that can be planted in the ground to avoid moving the babies once they have established!

If one has 65 to 90 days, they can grow corn!

According to the University of Arkansas the average days to harvest for corn runs between 65 and 95 days.  One should plan their start time based on their last frost date and how far along the plants need to be to ensure a solid harvest during the summer months.  Visit “When to Start Seeds Indoors” for more information on the best start times for seeds! 

Give corn a well draining spot and make sure the soil has lots of food and nutrients!

Corn needs well drained fertile soil and plenty of food to grow those gloriously sweet ears. Testing the soil lets one know for sure if there are serious issues to address; however,  2 steps work best  for me, to ensure the corn crop is healthy.

    1. Add fresh compost to the soil prior to planting.  Add 1 bag of compost, Black Kow Compost is my preference, to about 20 feet of garden space. A good rule of thumb is: If the ground becomes hard where the compost is mixed in, too much has been added. Compost should enhance the existing soil, not overtake it. 
    2. Mix in organic matter, i.e. used coffee grinds, leaves or dark rich topsoil if the soil is highly sandy.  

Plan to feed plants with feed once they have set at least 3 to four leaves.    Alaskan Fish Emulsion has worked wonders for my production spraying once a

Plant seeds in warm soil and within 12 inches apart

Plant seeds approximately 12 inches apart and approximately 1 ½ inches down.   Soil must be warm in the morning before planting!  Corn is wind pollinated versus bee pollinated.  This implies a few things:  1: don’t plant corn where it will be blocked from wind!  2: There should be enough corn for at least two solid side by side rows.  If only small amounts are being planted, use small squares versus long rows to ensure the corn is close enough together to achieve good pollination across plants. 

Steady water and a good fish based fertilizer does wonders

Corn needs plenty of water; without it they will struggle to produce flavorful kernels.  Water at least 1.5 inch per week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering.  A good rule of thumb is if no moisture in in the soil greater than an inch down, water. 

Companion Plants

Corn is a wonderful companion plant for many veggies; those plants that help corn grow the best are:

  • Climbing beans
  • cucumber
  • marjoram
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • squash
  • sunflowers
  • zucchini

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Growing Potatoes

French fries, waffle fries, crinkly cut fries, curly fries, baked, boiled, steamed or mashed potatoes are a staple of all of our lives.  I mean honestly would hamburgers be the same without the fry? Would gravy be the same without mashed potatoes?  There are so many things we use potatoes for.  According to the CIP at least a billion are consumed worldwide each year. On top of that potatoes are tubers, which makes them one of the easier plants to grow.  So, if you have been considering growing potatoes and it’s spring in your areas, now is the time!  

Interesting facts about the potato

Potatoes are such a large part of our food lives. What IS a potato anyway?  While we are on the topic is a potato really a vegetable?  Here are some super cool facts about this lovely plant!

  • Potatoes are actually tubers making them one of the easier plants to grow in home gardens.  They are a part of the Nightshade family of plants, which of course are known to have some very poisonous relatives! Curious enough, all parts of the potato plant actually are poisonous, EXCEPT the tubers! Which we eat as the glorious potato! 

  • In the 1890’s the US Supreme Court ruled several plants grown for the consumption of their “fruits” could legally be classified as vegetables and therefore taxed as vegetables!  This decision included the mighty potato and many other plants such as the tomato, (which is actually a berry type fruit) watermelons, lettuce, spinach, kale; stems of rhubarb, carrots, onions, garlic, turnips and other tubers like Jerusalem artichokes, etc.!  As a result, the potato is grown as a vegetable, taxed as a vegetable and is therefore legally considered, a vegetable!
  • The term “spud” for potatoes originated from the Medieval words spyd or spad which were tools used at the time as digging tools.  Of course this is the “Spade” and since spades were often used to dig potatoes, potato tubers were eventually called spud

Preparing your potato bed

Are you planning on growing potatoes? Old school farmer almanac followers will tell you, “if your dandelions are blooming your spuds should be shooting!” In other words plant them when you see those yellow flowers!  Potatoes need cooler weather, the soil needs to be 40 to germinate and they grow best in 60 to 70 degree temperatures.  If it’s too cold or wet or too hot they will not grow well.  

Before planting potatoes make sure the space selected will enable them to thrive. Potatoes need loose, well draining, slightly sandy soil with good organic matter. Those that have hard, clay soils or soil that are filled with rock would do best using raised beds or  bag containers which also work well for growing potatoes . 

All of this does not mean Potatoes are hard to grow, only that like many other plants timing and soil is essential to growing them.  For example, I’m in US Zone 7; therefore, my winters can range from too cold at times to perfect and my summers are 100% too hot.  In addition, I tend to have harder soil in places.  I will get the best results growing potatoes as a spring and fall plant and Sweet potatoes, (which want the heat) as a summer plant.  I also add a slightly sandy topsoil that contained some wood mulch in it and mix in Epsum Salt and cow manure from Black kow. 

Once your beds are ready its time to plant! So grab your spot and some soil, get that ready and and lets move on to growing potatoes!

Growing Potatoes

Planting potatoes is the easiest part of the whole process actually. There should  at least be a mention regarding the prep portion of the process for the potatoes themselves.  

First let’s discuss the ever present question, can one just use store bought potatoes?  The easy answer is yes, and I would be lying if I said I never did.  However, it’s not the best way to grow them.  Therefore, if one does use store bought make sure and choose organic.  Why though, why not?  Well the top reason is many have been sprayed and don’t reproduce as well.  Secondly,  one is never sure what kind they are.  We discussed the weather and the temperatures for potatoes to produce etc.  Potatoes in the store are not always clear as far as  their type.  Are they early producers or those that take longer to grow?  Knowing what one is growing,  especially if in a location that does not have long produce them, is paramount to a successful crop.

Prepping one’s potatoes can be as easy as dropping them in a dark location and allowing them to root.  They can also be placed in shallow jars with water and allowed to root.  Potatoes can be planted whole or cut up as long as there are eyes inclusive in the pieces.  If they are sliced up allow them a few days for the skin to harden prior to planting.  

Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep. Allow about 12 inches apart for the largest potato harvest. If limited on space and not as concerned with the size plant them around 6 inches apart.   Plant potatoes with the eyes up and cover them with about 3 to 4 inches of soil.  As they grow mound more soil around them. 

Potatoes like 1 – 2 inches of water per week, and unlike other plants prefer a deep soak in the night hours so that the soil moisture stays with them all day. This is a balancing act however, as too much water will cause your potatoes to either rot or swell.  Therefore, watch watering carefully, leaving enough water to moisten the soil but not to soak it. 

Companion plants

As with any plant there are companions that are best to plant together.  Potatoes do well when grown with:

  • Lettuce
  • Spinach
  • Scallions
  • Raddish

Plants that can enhance the flavor of your potatoes are:

  • Yarrow
  • Chamomile
  • Basil
  • Yarrow
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

According to the Spruce planting Horseradish can help potatoes become more resistant to disease. Flowers like petunias and alyssum can attract beneficial insects and tansy, coriander and catnip can help repel insects like the potato beetle.

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Growing Gourds

My  journey growing gourds started about five years ago with  ornamental gourds. I wanted to grow bottle gourds, also called birdhouse gourds and was primarily interested in them for crafts and such.

 

What I discovered was growing gourds is simply fun.   I have since come to think of gourds as the pringle of the plant world.  You know…  you can’t “grow” just one?  Once one has experienced the total coolness of a gourd vine rambling across their yard  or covering an arbor with giant, odd or gnarly looking “things” hanging down around it, they simply want to see more.

After growing the birdhouse gourd I just had to try a bushel gourd,  (a giant that can grow up to 5 feet across) which led me to the luffa gourd (because who doesn’t want free sponges) and in the coming year I would love to try the canteen, apple or dipper gourd!

What is a Gourd?

Gourds are a part of the cucurbitaceae family which holds some 965 species including the edible varieties, squash and pumpkins; and, the ornamental varieties that are non edible with hard shells. Ornamental gourds are often used for arts and crafts, fancy bowls and spoons etc.

Most plants in this family are vine like.  They also have  a range of white or yellow flowers with both male and female flowers on the same vine.

Growing Ornamental Gourds

Hard shell  ornamental gourds prefer full sun.  They can take the heat!  I have experienced growth in partial shade; however, the largest growth is obtained when grown in full sun.   Gourds are heavy eaters, they produce large fruit so ensure their soil is enriched with compost and organic matter.   (Tip:  Leaves are great for organic matter.  If heavy falling leaves exist around ones garden space,  cover the soil with them in fall and roll them into it in spring!)

  • Preference for gourds is direct sown in spring once all signs of frost has passed and the ground has warmed.
  • Some gourds can take up to 100 days to fully develop and be ready for harvest.   As such, use large starting pods to ensure minimal root damage if starting indoors due to shorter growing seasons.
  • Plan for space.   Most gourds have long heavy vines. They can be allowed to ramble across the ground or grown vertical with arbors or tepees, etc.  Personal preference is to grow vertically.  This enables ease of harvest and identification of pests or fungus etc.
  • Plant seeds  1- 2 inches deep.  If planting in rows plant in groups of 3 – 5 seeds, five feet apart.   Keep the strongest 2-3 plants in each group.
  • If seeding around arbors plant 2 – 4 seeds on each side of the arbor.
  • Keep soil moist during germination and moderately moist as the plants matures.
  • Gourds can successfully be grown in containers.  Two of my favorite container gardeners on Instagram are Cheryl of My Brentwood Garden and The Frenchie Gardener give them a visit for all kinds of container garden tips!

Caring for Gourds

Gourds are relatively simple to care for once they have established.  Their vines grow quick and strong leaving one of the largest challenges their maintenance.   Clip the vines as needed to ensure they don’t crawl into or around other plants.

Gourds are susceptible to the Squash Vine Borer as well as other insects and fungi that target the cucurbitaceae family.  I have had very good luck following these simple feeding steps:

  • Spray gourds semi-monthly with a mix of: fish emulsion  (2 tbs) dish soap (2 tsp) mixed with 1 gallon of water.
  • Monthly:

Companion plants for Gourds

Gourds, like many other plants, thrive when paired with specific plants, also known as companion plants.   Some of the basic companion plants for gourds are:

  • Marigolds
  • Dill
  • Radish
  • Tansy
  • Broccoli
  • Beans
  • Corn

 

 

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Making Cabbage Stew

There are just some foods that one always wants whenever it’s cold outside! There are also some that seem to love a Garden, where whomever is cooking could use most any veggie they may grow.  Cabbage stew is one of those foods!  At least it always has been in our family; and, somehow even though it’s filled with vegetables my children still love it.

What’s in Cabbage Stew?

Cabbage stew is prominently cabbage, which cooks down to an amazing broth  that is simply goodness in a bowl!  One can put almost anything in the pan with it and it taste good.  Which also makes it one of the best ways to use any produce that has grown over the summer, or has been frozen or stored for the winter.  We have made cabbage stew as a straight vegetable soup full of squash, peppers, corn, beans, etc. or added sausages, pork, beef, hamburger, chicken, taco meats, you name it we can simply add it in the pan with the cabbage.  Add cornbread as a side and man it’s just plain good!  Following is the recipe for one of the more packed versions we make.  Go from here and create your own!

Cabbage Stew Ingredients… Oma Style

  • 1 Whole Cabbage
  • 2 Whole Tomatoes Fresh
  • 1/2 Onion
  • 1-2 Green Bell Peppers
  • 1-2 Jalapeno, Serrano, or other type of hot chili pepper (add extra +heat!)
  • 1/2 Squash sliced (yellow summer)
  • 1/2 Zucchini squash (green)
  • 1 – 2 cups green beans
  • 1 cup corn
  • 4-5 cloves fresh garlic
  • 1-2 Cups Pulled Pork
  • Splash of Vinegar (must have add more to increase tartness)
  • Tomato Powder (2-4 tsp)
  • Paprika (cover top of pan)
  • Cumin (cover top of pan)
  • Chili Powder (up to 1 tbs)
  • Kosher Salt (salt to taste)
  • Pepper (to taste)
  • Tabasco Sauce (use it at the table for a great kick add as you want it but man this is good)

Preparation 

  1. Slice cabbage and add to pan
  2. Chop all vegetables and add to pan
  3. Cover with water, add spices
  4. Cook on medium heat for or 3 – 4 hours until cabbage as broken down and veggies are soft.   If using a crock pot or needing to cook from a longer time period place on low setting.
  5. As soup finishes taste regularly and add more seasoning as needed.
  6. Enjoy!

The above assumes the pork has already been cooked and is added as a meat to the stew.  IF raw meats are being used, braise in the pan with garlic, onions and a tbs oil prior to adding ingredients and increase cooking time on lower setting to ensure meats are cooked.

In Closing

What makes cabbage stew so wonderful is its versatility.  We have made this with all the above or just a few ingredients.   Visit me on You tube for a Quick Video on a “left over”version of this wonderful good feel stew!  Then open your fridge and make your own bowl of garden greatness!

 

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Gardening Around the World – Episode 2 – Sharpen Your Spades

Meet Richard Chivers, or as I like to call him Spades, of “Sharpen your Spades” on Instagram.  Spades was one of the first gardeners I followed over a year ago when I first discovered the #gardenersofinstagram family.    He is an avid gardener from Wales, the island of Great Britain, just to the west of England. Over the last year I have watched Spades garden page grow to over 23K followers!  If one takes a moment to meander his page, there is no doubt why he is so popular.   Not only are his photographs beautiful, they are a sea of calm; and the joy Spades has found in gardening is apparent. Join me on this second episode of Gardening Around the World  where I am more than happy to have the chance to interview and share Richards joy, along with a bit of his personal insight into the passion he finds in a garden.

Oma: So Spades, tell us a bit about what drew you to Gardening, when did you start?

Spades: Food actually! I’ve always enjoyed cooking and in 2007, almost by accident, I grew some tomatoes in a pot in the back garden. When I harvested the fruit later that year I was amazed by the taste and quality. It demonstrated to me that away from the supermarket shelves, there are so many varieties of fruit and vegetables available if you grow your own. I became hooked quite quickly.

Oma: Oh you are totally right about that! I wonder how many of us did that same thing? Accidentally realize how good fresh really is I mean. Because, that’s almost exactly what happened to me! My kids at the time were very little and they had spit some cantaloupe seeds in our yard. When they came up I realized what they were and for fun let them grow right there in the grass in the backyard. It was fun and the best cantaloup I ever had; I was hooked! I had grown up watching my great grandparents garden but I wanted to try more! 

Oma: Where is your garden at?  Your yard, an allotment or a local coop?  

Spades: I have an allotment garden a few minutes away from my house. Allotments are (usually) areas of land owned by the local authority that are divided into plots (gardens) for people to rent and grow their own fruit and vegetables. They are fantastic resources and often very generous in size.

Oma: I find it so fascinating that some are so dedicated that they make the time needed to actually go to another place to garden!! Why? Because gardening takes time, and life is busy. To not be able to walk out to my yard and be right there is foreign to me and I find It so wonderful that so many do that.

Oma: Tell us about your journey to get to your space?  How long does it take you? Do you drive or ride a train etc? 

Spades: Luckily my allotment is a 10 minute walk away. If I drive, which I often do when I have plants and tools to take with me, I can be there in 2 minutes. I agree that it’s much more beneficial to have the garden right outside your house; and, I’d love to have that. However,  often in cities, garden space comes at a premium which is why I believe allotments are so important to people and their communities and especially in cities and urban areas.

Oma: This is so true.  I didn’t even know about allotments before I started my Instagram journey and reading up on gardening around the world.  One thing that learning so much about other people who garden has taught me is how blessed all of us are to have spaces to garden especially those that use allotments or coops.  Gardening still takes time!

Oma: How do you make the time to garden;  how have you overcome your challenges in order to be successful with your allotment space?

Spades: I think whatever your circumstances, making time to garden is important. I work full time and I try to ensure I manage the time I get to spend at the allotment as best I possibly can. This means I always have a plan of what I want to achieve at the allotment each visit. I have two mini greenhouses in the garden at home and I grow nearly all of my crops in soil blocks, trays and plastic pots there. This enables me to manage the seedlings close to home and I simply transport them to the allotment when they are ready to be planted out in the ground.  I also try to garden in the most efficient way. Time is precious and I want to make it easy and enjoyable to garden.

One way I’ve done this is through no-dig gardening. I’ve learned a lot from Charles Dowding who is a pioneer in no-dig gardening here in the UK. Not only is No-dig better for the soil and therefore the plants, it saves heaps of time in the autumn and winter months which is traditionally the time gardeners break their backs digging the soil over.

Oma: What is the thing you enjoy most about gardening? Spades: Gosh that’s a hard question.   Oma: Kinda is right??

Spades: It’s more than one thing. Growing food is incredibly rewarding. To nurture a plant from seed to the point that it provides its fruit is a wonderful feeling. It feels worthwhile. Gardening also provides a direct connection with nature and the environment. Something I feel modern society has lost. I know that simply being in the garden is all that I need to relieve stress and to improve my wellbeing.

Oma: Yes, I sometimes wonder what it would be like if we all once again had a Kitchen Garden.  That space right outside our kitchen that held our herbs and spices and vegetables.  From a stress perspective, I think I hear that the most, the stress relief I mean. I used to work in a high impact high stress position.  Hours of upwards of 60-70 a week was an often occurrence.  Being the weekend gardening warrior was sometimes the only thing that kept my sanity!  Gardening is not always easy though.  

Oma: What is the thing you like the least about gardening?  Spades: Not having as much time as I would like to do it!

Oma: Hahaha yes! We could all use more garden time…. Hey…. that sounds like a sign I need to paint??  

Oma: What do you feel is one of the biggest challenges of gardening in your area; and what do you do to overcome this challenge?

Spades:  I live in Wales, which is probably the wettest area in the UK. We get a lot of rain. This clearly has benefits and it’s rare for us to suffer in a dry spell (although the climate emergency has clearly changed that as our recent summers have shown) but it can also be challenging.

I use raised beds and no-dig to ensure the soil I grow in is in the best possible health and structure. The allotments can often flood – especially in winter, but raising beds and not digging or tilling the soil has really made a difference on my plot.

Oma: What is your favorite plant to grow and why?  

Spades: That’s difficult too! I like everything I grow which is why I choose to grow it. In terms of vegetables I might pick Beetroot and Tomatoes. I enjoy them both and the beets are relatively easy to grow and the tomatoes are just an abundance – you can’t beat the flavour of both when they are home grown and fresh.

Oma: There is just something about the tomato right? Seeing those large beautiful red or orange or green babies; there is so much you can do with them. The funny thing Is they are actually not the easiest plants to grow in all areas but people still go for them. Perhaps that adds to the allure, conquering the challenge and all!  Having grown that perfect tomato! 

Oma: Do you want to try and grow something new this next season; if yes what?

Spades: I think it’s important to grow something new each year. Not necessarily a new crop but perhaps a different variety of a crop you enjoy eating. It’s one of the best things about growing your own food, the varieties are incredible. This year will be some new pepper varieties and I try to pick a new pumpkin or winter squash to grow each year too

Oma: I love that, yes!! Variety is one of the reasons I love painting plants so much. Not only are they beautiful, there are so many different kinds of the same plant.  Squash for example, or cabbages or lettuce. I can paint them over and over again and always paint something new.  Which makes your statement so right on; there is always something to grow and still be within the range of what one likes to eat.  

Oma: Who inspires you? If you could meet any gardener you wanted to, who would it be and why?

Spades: I have a few I’d like to meet who have inspired my gardening. I’ve been lucky to meet Charles Dowding twice in the last few years – his books have 

been my number one source for growing vegetables on the allotment. I would love to meet Joy Larkcom who I feel like I know through her fantastic books on the subject and I’d really like to meet Eliot Coleman (New Organic Grower).

Oma: Spades, thank you so much for taking the time to talk to a gardener such as me.  We gardeners learn so much simply being around  or talking to those that love gardening. 

For all of you garden lovers out there give Spades a shout out, tell him Oma says hi and visit his blog  at sharpenyourspades.com  or Instagram: @sharpenyourspades and  Twitter: @spadesharp

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Health Benefit of Tomatoes

This week I started tomato seeds for the spring garden!  I grow them becasuse fresh is best and the health benefit of tomatoes make them even better.  However, I just can’t help that my mind does not think of the benefits whenever I grow tomatoes .  No, it immediately invisions a fresh BLT, (Bacon Lettuce and Tomato sandwich).  I mean, what better health benefit of tomatoes is there then the fact that one can lay a beautiful red slice across a mound of bacon! 

The meatless part of me loves them too. Thoughts of red tomatoes lying on top of fresh lettuce smothered with ranch dressing abound. Or, the way they cook into a sauce that can be lavishly spread across noodles, or bread or mixed into peppers for a bight of tomato heat! 

There is no doubt one of the benefits of tomatoes is their taste and versatility! After all, they are a main source of Umami, that savory flavor that combines “the five basic tastes of sweetness, sourness, bitterness, and saltiness together in one bite!  However, with just a bit of research one will find the health benefit of tomatoes are also numerous. There is so much more to this red, yellow, purple or green beauty than simply their taste! 

About the Tomato

The tomato is actually a fruit! This does make sense as tomatoes are full of juice when sliced open.  However, the Solanum lycopersicum  is most often used as a vegetable.  Tomatoes originated from South and Central America, domesticated and cultivated from the indeginious people of Mexico.

The nutrition factors of tomatoes are quite interesting!  One of the first things that jumps out when researching their benefits is the amount of water one tomato holds! According to an article on healthline.com they actually consist mainly of water! 95% water; and, that is a lot of water in one portion of food!  However, they also contain several nutrients all which help one thrive from a holistic health perspective. 

Top health benefit of tomatoes

   

 

Vitamin C:  One medium tomato could provide as much as 28% of the recommended daily intake of vitamin C.  Like Orange Juice in a red piece of candy!

 

Potassium: I personally feel the benefits of potassium are underrated, it is afterall an electrolyte.  According to Healthline potassium is a mineral  that produces “positively charged ions,” when dissolved in water.  Now, how interesting is that considering 95% of the tomato is in fact water? Potassium dissolves into one’s body acting as, “positive and negative ions” literally conducting electricity as a positive charge helping to regulate fluid, nerve and muscle contractions.  Vitamin K1:  Important to the bodies ability to create blood clotting and healthy bones!

Vitamin B9: Used for tissue growth and cell functions! Lycopene: That special ingredient that actually makes the tomato red, generally the brighter the color red of the tomato the more Lycopene is present and is strongest in the skin of the tomato.  Lycopene is an antioxidant, helpful in keeping the bodies free radical levels in balance and protecting against things like cancer, diabetes, heart disease and Alzheimers. Healthline sighted, “Most red and pink foods contain some lycopene. Tomatoes and foods made with tomatoes are the richest sources of this nutrient.”

Grow Your Own

If one truly wants to appreciate the taste and health of tomatoes one should grow their own.  Many of our foods today are sprayed and grocery store tomatoes are often harvested and transported in their green stage making them immature.  Food companies can be known to use artificial ethylene gas spray on tomatoes to improve their beautiful red coloring during this immature stage.  This process, although good at exposing color, puts a damper on their natural development and hinders the flavor resulting in a more `tasteless” tomato.

Home grown tomatoes give so much flavor to ones recipes. There is afterall a reason us gardeners often say, “it tastes so much better when it’s fresh.”   So, the next time you visit the store and see a package of tomato seeds in a tall isle display, grab some for your home garden! Find the health and flavor of fresh grown tomatoes in your own backyard or allotment garden!

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Tips for Germinating Peppers

Growing peppers can sometimes be a royal pain.  Peppers tend to have some very specific things that need to be done to ensure a clear path to peppery goodness.They can be very sensitive when small and highly subject to root rot if the soil is too moist or too cold. This leads at times to difficult germination.    As such,  here are a few quick tips for germinating peppers!

Use a Heat mat for germination

Peppers, even most of the sweet or bell peppers, need to have at least a 70° to 85° degree soil temperature to germinate.  I stubbornly refused to get one for years.  I do have peppers every year so it’s not a complete loss to go without a mat. However, I struggled with germination on many hot peppers simply because of their strict need for heated soil.  Once a mat was obtained results in the number of plants actually germinating improved right away!  Vivosun has some very good options for mats. They are also terribly simple to use so highly recommend this gem.   

 

Use Peat pods or well draining soil to germinate seeds

Peppers tend to like moist but not wet soil.  This is another area I was a bit stubborn about as I love a soil mix I make myself.  This self made mix was perfect for older mature plants however, it was not the best for germinating peppers.  Using a heavy soil can lead to no germination, or germination followed by struggling plants due to root rot.   Peat pods are simple to find and often come in bags of 50 – 200 or more. I prefer the Jiffy brand!

Keep  seeds in an area that allows for humidity while germinating

Peppers need humidity for germination far more than many other seeds grown in one’s garden.  As such, make sure and utilize a seed starting dome planter or a greenhouse to control humidity.

Move quickly into a larger pot once germinated and place them in good lighting 

Once the seeds have germinated move them off the heat mat, and place them in a larger pot.  One where they can spend at least the next 60 days.  During this mid life,  (where they are not in the ground but still inside) continue to use high draining soil.

 

 

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When to Start Seeds Indoors – Timing is Everything!

“When do I start my seeds?” 

It’s not surprising that this is the question I get the most.  After all, there are so many plants, so many time zones, and so many ways to start a seed.  Many new timers are confused about when to start, how to start or what to start when it comes to seeds for their garden. This is also not surprising as growing plants from seeds is one of the most natural things a gardener can do!  The truth is this a great question! Why? Because, for most time zones there are only so many growing days in the season!  One does not want to use the bulk of that time growing their plant, they want to use the bulk of that time harvesting food.    Starting seeds indoors, helps ensure this can occur as quickly as possible; and, plants are as strong as can be once they are transplanted outside!   

Like several things it often comes down to a few good tips.  For me, after three decades of trying, failing, trying and succeeding, those few quick tips have come down to the three “T’s,” Timing, Tools, and Tending!  This article will focus on Timing and one of the best ways I have found to determine when it’s time to start ones seeds! 

“Is there a Simpler Way”

Beleive it or not knowing when to start your seeds can be quite simple; and, many an issue can be resolved by first gathering three bits of information:

1.  Last Frost Date:  There is usually a spring frost before spring is consistently warm. This last spring frost is known as the “Last Frost Date.” The date in ones area where the last of the cold hits, and the consistent warmth of spring actually starts.   There are multiple places on the web to find out where your last frost date is.  My favorite is the  Farmers Almanac First and Last Frost Dates  calander!   In most cases, this is the date you can consider starting to plant outdoors!

2.  Time to Harvest: Time to harvest is litterally the time it takes a plant to actually produce fruit! The grwoth time before your eating your produce!  The “Time to Harvest” is most often found on the front or back of a seed packet and can range anywhere from 25 days up to a much as 100 days.  

3. Growth Time before Transplanting:  The time one wants their plants to have to grow prior to planting them outside.   A good range is 30% to 50% of the total “Time to Harvest (2).”   The larger percentage of course meaning the plants will be indoors longer.

“Ok so now what?”

So  you know your “Last Frost Date”, your “Time to Harvest” and the “Growth Time before Transplanting” now what? Utilize the “Growth Time before Transplanting” and your “Last Frost Date” to back into the seed start date.   

For example: Hot Peppers can take up to 100 days before the ‘Time to Harvest” is reached.  Targeting 50% of that means the “Growth time before Transplanting” is approximatly 50 days.  Lets look at that example using my zones!

    1. Last Frost Date in My Zone:  April 1 
    2. Time to Harvest for Hot Peppers: 100 Days  
    3. Growth Time Before Planting Outside:  50 Days (50% of Time to Harvest)
    4. Date to start seeds: February 11 
  • Seeds would need to be started by February 11th to allow for a “Growth Time before Transplanting” of at lease 50 days (50% of the “Time to Harvest”)  by the time I reached my “Last Frost Date”!   

There you Go! Now get out there and grow some seeds!

Comming Soon:

How to Grow From Seeds – Tools Are Everything!

 

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Planning for Spring in Five Steps!

I took a deliberate walk around the gardens this morning. What did I find?  Life; little signs of spring, or even better signs of life, all around me. The rebirth of so many things.  It’s no wonder so many people feel this is their absolute favorite time of the year. What better time is there for planning and to refresh one’s mind then this new life stage?  As Solomon said in his songs, “See! The winter is past; the rains are over and gone. Flowers appear on the earth; the season of singing has come, the cooing of doves is heard in our land… Arise, come, my darling; my beautiful one, come with me.”   

How can you prepare your existing beds for spring?

For a gardener there is no better time than spring!  We plan for it all winter and long for it all summer!  Although Fall does offer just as much growth it still seldom rivals the feeling of life we find in spring.   Yes, there are a few simple steps we can take to prepare for its greatness!

1) Walk your space

The first step in preparing your existing beds for spring is simply walking your space!  Just as I did today grab a nice cup of coffee and walk your gardens. This is not a journey of work but one of discovery!   

Your goal here is to simply open your eyes to what life is appearing from last season. Find what is coming back or what needs removed.  Most gardens, even if all annuals, will have some sign that it’s time to prep for spring.    

2) Look for New growth

Did you have roses, trees, or  perennial flowers? Check for signs of green 

coming back around the dead growth. For roses those signature bright purplish red leaves that show up in spring or, for fruit trees the small buds starting to form on the branches from last year.  Make note where its coming up and also make note of any dead growth left from last season.

3) Look for residual or dead foliage

 

Look for green coming up around dead foliage from the last season.  This is a great sign that your plants are doing well and are as ready for  the spring as you are! Notice if there is dead foliage around the new and plan for the best time to start to cut this back .

4) Plan for trimming and clean-up

Most of your plants that return annually will need some kind of trim or clean up.  However, don’t be too anxious to do this. More than likely you will see the first signs of life on your walk several weeks before you should clean off the old.  For example: I am in Zone 8. My signs of spring most often start to show up towards the end of February. I see new growth on my lavender, daisies etc. However without a doubt I will continue to have freezes on and off through the end of March. As such, I should hold on my urge to remove this dead foliage until I know for sure my cold is truly gone.  Why? This bit of leftover foliage offers warmth for the new babies underneath them. How will you know when?

Follow your weather patterns.  One should trim within a week or so of what is considered that last freeze in your area.    If you have plants you’re not sure of you can reach out; we can figure it out!

5) Prep your bare garden areas

Make note of any bare spots you have. The places in your beds that will hold all your new plants such as peppers, tomatoes, corn, beans etc. Do a quick soil test See: Step 2 of a Successful Garden: Soil Assessments and check if you need refreshing.   

  • Add fresh compost! If you have not added fresh soil in a few seasons then you probably need a few bags. I like to refresh annually with Black Kow compost. If it’s an existing bed probably a few bags in each of your spaces will be plenty. Work it into your existing soil spreading it across your beds. This picture here is for both new beds and a refresh of old!  Therefore, the amount you need could vary based on the size of your beds and rather they are new or not!
  • Add fresh peat moss twice a year, once in spring and once in fall.  Peat Moss can be controversial for some.  It is 100% natural which is why I love it, however it’s and taken from the bogs and this is where some have concern.   As such, I try to not use it excessively more as a winter and spring prep! Coconut moss is also an option if one prefers not to use Peat. 
  • Add leftover banana or orange peels in with the fresh compost!
  • Add all of your stored coffee grinds at this time along with eggshells you have been holding over winter! Mix all  of these items in with your existing soil at least three weeks before your first plants go in!  Allow it to sit in your beds and start their decomposition process while starting your seeds.

In Closing!

Starting your spring prep process can be so fun! Yes, it’s work of course but it allows you to see the life that is just around the corner!  To envision what is coming and clear your mind of what has been!  This walk motivates you to get out there and enjoy your first blast of warmth after a long season of cold. 

And, it doesn’t hurt either if you whisper to your gardens in the words of Solomon… “Arise, come, my darlings; my beautiful ones, come with me,” spring is upon us, and my life and your’s is beautiful!

 

 

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