Tag: garden tips

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Growing Garlic

There are few smells as well-known as garlic!  The aroma itself brings happiness and growing garlic is so much better as the flavor of fresh garlic cannot be beat!

 

Categories of Garlic

Although there are many different kinds of garlic most can be classified in two distinct categories known as Soft Neck and Hard Neck.

Soft neck garlic:

Soft neck garlic has stronger white outer layers of skin that makes them best for long periods of storage.  These are often found in grocery stores or markets. Soft neck garlic does not have the long flowering stems found on hard neck garlic.  This feature makes them better for braiding and they actually grow best in milder winter areas.

Hard neck garlic:  

True to its name, hard neck garlic sends out a long woody flowering stem that generates edible scapes.  Hard neck is also cold weather hardy so it’s best for areas that have stronger winters. In contrast to soft neck, it has a thinner more papery skin that is easier to peel.  However, this thinner skin means that it will not store as long as your soft neck varieties.

Elephant garlic is often listed as its own category; however, it is not. It does fit within either the soft neck or the hard neck varieties yet it is worth a call out as it produces the largest of the bulbs with only 4 to 6 bulbs per garlic head and has the mildest of the flavors.    

Growing Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest plants to grow with very few enemies.  In addition it offers some of the best natural protection making it a great companion plant for a large range of plants.  One can have the best crops by following these simple tips

  • Plan to plant your garlic in the fall.  Allow for approximately 4 to 6 weeks before your first cold spell hits your area.  Garlic be grown in early January; however its best in fall for two reasons: 1: garlic really needs a cold spell to set well and planting in the winter ensures this process.  2:  they need to have strong established roots by spring so that the plant can then focus on a large healthy garlic head.
  • Garlic takes approximately 6 months to fully form. This means once planted in fall they will be in your beds throughout your spring growing period.  As such, choose your location wisely.  Think about the plants you plan to grow in spring knowing you will be planting around them during this time.  
  • Grow garlic in full sun locations.  For heavy heat areas plan for some spots with some shade in the hottest parts of the day.

 

 

  • Separate your bulbs from the head, leave the paper skin on them and plant them within 2 days of separation.  Make sure you select the largest and healthiest bulbs from each garlic head.

 

  • Plant in well-drained soil with good organic matter making sure you have worked the soil so that its soft and pliable for your garlic to grow in. Place a bit of Epsom and bone mill or fish fertilizer in the soil prior to dropping them in!  
  • Dig the holes approximately 2-4 inches deep.  Sites will state to list them 6 inches apart. I have pushed this at times and planted them 3 inches apart.  I would not recommend any closer as you want the bulbs to have plenty of room to grow.
  • If you planted last year, practice rotating your garlic annually this will deter returning pests to your area!

One may be tempted to grow garlic from the stores;  however, I don’t recommend this. You will not know for sure what type you have or how they were grown. Yes,  garlic can seem expensive at first; however, keep in mind you will get a full head of garlic from each bulb planted.  In addition if dried and stored properly one will be able to use their own garlic for continued growth season after season going forward.

Companion Planting

On a personal note I love to scatter garlic throughout my beds. Growing them where I have open spaces or boarders. It offers a natural repellent for  plants and can deter deer and rabbit making it an exceptional companion plant.  Here I have placed it all along the back in the my lettuce and cabbage beds to help detour pests. 

 

 

 

 

Pests deterred by garlic

  • Gnats
  • Spider Mites
  • Aphids
  • Snails
  • Ants

Plants that benefit from garlic

  • Fruit trees
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Beets
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Potatoes
  • Carrots
  • Eggplants
  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli Kohlrabi
  • Roses
  • Geraniums

Do not grow garlic around

  • asparagus
  • peas
  • beans
  • sage
  • parsley or
  • onions (onions and garlic attract the same enemies so it’s best not to plant them together)

Quick Video On Planting Garlic

 

 

 

Accompanying Articles

Knowing When to Harvest Your Garlic

Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

 

 

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Herbal Face Food Plant of the Month: Yarrow

It's time for the Herbal Face Food(HFF) Plant of the Month!  A monthly dedication to the various plants used by HFF to create their amazing skin care products.  This months HFF plant moment is dedicated to the amazing Yarrow. 

Yarrow has become one of my favorite wild herbs. Those who don't have it in their gardens probably are not aware of its medicinal and health benefits. Yarrow provides vitamins A, C potassium, zinc, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and niacin.  Yarrow is also commonly known as  an astringent with anti-inflammatory properties which is one of the main draws  and with all of this its no wonder HFF wants Yarrow in their amazing serums.

About Yarrow

Yarrow originated from Europe and Asia and is now commonly found all around the globe. The scientific name for Yarrow is Achillea millefolium other names include common yarrow (the white wild Yarrow), nosebleed plant or soldier's wound wort.   Several of these names tell us clearly that one of the benefits of Yarrow is blood and wound dressing.   Dr. Nicole Apelian describes Yarrow in her book, The Lost Book of Herbal Remedies as, “nature's tourniquet.” 

Yarrow comes in several colors from white to light pinks and purples to red and yellow.  kidadl.com has a great list of specific types including their colors!   I have read however that common Yarrow, that grows wild with white flowers is the best and strongest for medicinal use.  

Benefits of Yarrow

The benefits of Yarrow are so vast, it truly is an amazing plant for skin.  Here are just a few of the uses:  

    • Yarrow can be used in teas fresh or dried for nausea or stomach flues, hard menstrual cycles or reducing fevers (as it creates sweating).  Women that are pregnant should not drink Yarrow tea.  
    • Powder from dried yarrow can be used to stop bleeding (many sites caution not to use on deep wounds as it will heal it too quickly from the inside). 
    • Fresh yarrow leaves can also be used as a poultice for bleeding and the leaves can be used for stopping nose bleeds. 
    • Yarrow helps reduce swelling in bruises, or sprains or can be used as a antibacterial on scratches or minor cuts. 
    • Yarrow flowers can be used in baths for itchy skin or hives.  
    • The leaves and flowers can be made into a tincture with Alcohol or as an oil in olive oil or carrier oils.  It can even be made into a salve with beeswax and infused yarrow oil.
    • Yarrow can be substituted for hops and barley in beer and and mead.

Continue The Journey: Read more about growing and using this wonderful plant:

Brought to you by Herbal Face Food

The plant of the month series brought to you by  Herbal Face Food.  A company I'm very happy to support.  Each of their products are made with 100% plants! The most powerful plants in the world.   As they say, "HFF is not plant based it's plant powered" bringing together up to 100 different plants depending on the product.  HFF is the only 100% plant based skin care product on the market.  Note: I do make a small commission on  referrals.  As a result I'm able to offer a 20% discount to my readers along with tips on how to grow and use these same wonderful plants in your own home or plot gardens.

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Growing Yarrow

 

Yarrow has become one of my favorite wild herbs. I received my first yarrow plants as an act of God.  Yep, I found it growing wild in my pesticide/weed killer free lawn right next to the Dandelions! Once this fuzzy fern looking plant was identified as Yarrow, I knew it was staying and moved several clusters to a designated spot in the garden. It now returns annually. I do still tend to find more showing up in other areas. When this occurs I either move it to its designated spot, pull it up, or leave it right where it is and allow it to bloom.  

Growing from Seed

If starting Yarrow from seed start indoors 6 to 8 weeks prior to the last frost. Plant in ground once all fear of frost has passed.

  • If direct sowing start in early spring after all chance of cold has passed.    
  • Yarrow loves full sun, it can grow in partial shade however will not grow as strong.  For this reason its best to find a sunny spot for Yarrow.  
  • Plant in sandy loam soil. Yarrow can grow in clay soil if water does not stand in the area for extended periods of time. 

Companion Plants

  • Lavender
  • Garlic
  • Onions
  • Cabbage, broccoli, and all the Brassicas
  • Oregano
  • Spinach
  • Thyme

Yarrow is susceptible to Powdery Mildew so DON’T grow it around plants that are also susceptible to Powdery Mildew.  For example, squash, pumpkins etc.

Read more about the history and uses of Yarrow here:

HFF Plant of the Month: Yarrow

Brought to you by Herbal Face Food

The plant of the month series brought to you by  Herbal Face Food.  A company I'm very happy to support.  Each of their products are made with 100% plants!  As they say, "HFF is not plant based it's 100% plant powered." Bringing together up to 100 different plants in their products, HFF is the only 100% plant based skin care product on the market.  I do make a discount for any purchases referred.  In turn, I'm able to offer a 20% discount to my readers along with tips on how to use the same wonderful plants in your own home or plot gardens.

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Growing Spinach

Spinach has rolled itself into the favorite winter plants category in my garden.  When picked fresh it is so good!  Spinach is a cold crop, which means it falls into the family of plants that love the cold weather! This makes growing spinach in my zone 7b garden a must!!

One of my favorite spinach's to grow is Gurneys Seed  Goliath Spinach.   I grow this Spinacia oleracea for its amazingly large buttery leaves that can reach up to 8 inches across while maintaining its sweet tender texture.  Spinach can be a bit picky; so, here are some tips for growing this beautiful vegetable in your backyard, kitchen or plot garden. 

    • Sow seeds in cool weather when the ground is workable. 
    • Spinach is super cold-hearted and loves the cold sun! Find a bright spot! Plan for morning shade and afternoon sun in the winter, In spring find a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade as it extends the growing period into hotter weather.

    • Spinach likes well draining rich composted soil.  They use lot's of food creating their thick vitamin rich leaves.
    • Use a consistent water schedule.  Let the ground get semi-dry between watering. They will for sure cry and wilt if you've waited too long.

    • Mulch your babies with fresh leaves or hay in colder weather to allow for a bit of a blanket if needed.
    • Once seedlings reach around 2 inches tall thin or transplant leaving 6 to 12 inches between each plant.
    • Feed monthly with coffee grinds and Epsom salt.  Use a good organic microbes spray.  My favorites are shared below!
    • Harvest from the outside in. Leave the center of the plant to continue producing more leaves.  Or, cut the entire plant at the base leaving the roots to reproduce as long as possible into spring.

Companion planting with Spinach

Beans and Peas add nitrogen to the soil helping with feeding spinach.  They are also taller plants and are wonderful to use as companions in spring gardens. Planting spinach below these taller plants in spring can extend the life of spinach with shade as heat arrives.

    • Cabbage, kale, Brussels anything in the Brassicas family.
    • Lettuces
    • Radishes can act as sacrificial plants near spinach drawing leaf mining insects to them.
    • Marigolds on a boarder offer pest protection as well.
    • Do NOT grow spinach with plants that need dry soil, they will cancel each other out
    • Do NOT grow spinach near potatoes.  Well, perhaps be wary.  Spinach is a shallow root plant so it can easily be grown with spinach and not impact the potatoes.  Potatoes however have a larger pest issue with flea beetles who also love spinach leaves.  Therefore, planting spinach with potatoes could very well create a flea beetle issue with your spinach. And spinach is all about the leaves.

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Growing Tabasco Peppers

I get simple enjoyment out of growing Tabasco peppers. They remind me of thanksgiving and Christmas all rolled into one.  I know it sounds strange but it's the colors.  They are like little bulbs standing straight and tall in beautiful shades of orange and red.  The happiness they make me feel when I see them in the yard all bright and beautiful against the dying fall garden is just that, pure happiness.  

About Tabasco

Tabasco originates in mexico. They have a heat level that ranges from 30,000 to 50,000 on the heat scale. It's heat compares to the Cayenne pepper and has a hotter burn than the jalapeno pepper.  I love it however, on eggs and in stews and salsa. Tabasco's are tapered and grow about 2 to 3 inches in length and are most famous for the world renowned Tabasco hot sauce.

Growing Tabasco

    • Tabasco takes about 80 to 90 days to grow.  Therefore one should plan to start them indoors if living in a climate with short summer periods. 
    • Start seeds in loose soil set about ½ inch down.  I like using Grow mate Organics Root Max to give them an exceptional start.
    • Tabasco needs warm temperatures from 75 degrees up.
    • Plant in a sunny location with well draining soil and feed them monthly with Epsom salt and Coffee Grinds. I also had great results spraying them monthly with Happy Tree Microbes 
    • Tabasco needs room to branch! Plant to space the plants between 1.5-2 feet apart from each other.
    • Harvest Tabasco when the peppers have turned orange or red.  Be careful though they turn quick! They can hit that red color and within a day or so start to brown out. As such be ready for harvest! Tabasco can be harvested when green or pale yellow and allowed to ripen indoors if needed. Their flavor however is best when harvested at the last minute!
    • Tabasco needs around an inch of water a week, heavier watering during fruiting!  I allow them to dry between watering.  However, if temps reach above 95 degrees and they are fruiting, lean towards a consistent slightly moist soil to help avoid calcium issues. For example,  blossom end rot.

Companion Planting with Tabasco Plants

There is mixed opinion on Tabasco plants in regards to companion planting.  I read years ago from Homeguides SFGates to plant them separate from tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. to avoid soil borne diseases prevalent in these types of plants.  Other sites promote them together.  Personally I have always kept my peppers separate, grown in another spot away from tomatoes and eggplant and practice planting with the following:

    • Zinnias, Basil, Garlic Chives, Marigolds, Lavender and Rosemary.
    • Planting peppers around these flowers supports both plants.  The flowers bring pollinators that help peppers have the best possible fruiting,  In return peppers help protect the flowers from insects that don't like the smell of hot spicy peppers.  

In The Works

    • Tabasco Hot Sauce Recipe !

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Growing Rosemary

There are so many reasons why growing rosemary is essential in a garden, the simplest being that once established, rosemary is an easy to grow, extremely good smelling and edible shrub!  Rosemary can grow up to several feet in height and can be hedged to fill hard to grow spots, tall background borders and rustic areas in gardens.  It’s the perfect sun lover and is listed by the Farmers Almanac  as a perennial in US zones 7 and up.   Throw in all of the edible and medicinal values of rosemary and it’s easy to understand why growing rosemary is an essential herb.

Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening Gloves.

Growing Rosemary from Seed

There are a few ways to start rosemary plants; one can use seeds, cuttings or established plants from a nursery or garden center.   Although rosemary is a super strong, hardy and vigorous plant once established, starting from seed is actually the more difficult way to acquire one’s plants. Therefore, we shall start with seeds first. 

    • It’s recommended to start rosemary seeds indoors or in a greenhouse a good 90 to 120 days before planting outside.  
    • Use small seed starter pots made from coconut husk soil or a good organic potting mix. Moisten the pods or soil mixed planters with water.  
    • Ensure the top layer is moist but not drowning.  Shake the tiny rosemary seeds across the top of the soil surface.  
    • Rosemary is open air germinated so take care to not cover he seeds with soil. Simply press them on the soil gently and spray again with water to moisten the seeds.  A quart water spray mister bottle is perfect for this stage of plant growth. 
    • Place moistened seeds in a warm bright window, greenhouse or lighted tent. Spray or mist with water daily ensuring seeds have a moist spot to germinate.  

Once the babies reach about an inch tall, pot them up. Use large enough pots to ensure the roots are not disturbed and will enable the plants to grow a minimum of 90 days before they are migrated outdoors.

Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening Gloves.

Weather and Soil

When migrating rosemary, consider the following: 

    • Rosemary needs dry hot areas and once established to be left alone! Just come back every now and then for water and a good cut!
    • Rosemary grows best in sandy loam soil. Clay ridden soil will be an issue as it holds water making it conducive to root rot. When faced with clay soil one will need to either modify the soil, move rosemary to another location, or consider them permanently potted.
Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening gloves.

Companion Plants

Companion planting is the process of joining plants in a way that enhances their natural abilities to thrive.  Some of the best plants to grow with rosemary include:

    • Brassicas: Rosemary is a friend to brassica plants as its smell can confuse their predators .  Therefore, always plant rosemary near cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, Brussels, and any other plants in this wonderful family.
    • Other plants that benefit when paired Rosemary include:
      • Lavender, Thyme, Sage, Marigolds, Marjoram, Strawberries, Sunflowers, Rudbeckia

Cautionary plant combinations

Plant groupings one should avoid if possible; or, if necessary plan ahead ways to manage the challenges ensuring both plants thrive.  

        • Mint:  Mint needs shady moist spots; rosemary needs sunny dry spots.  Right off the bat they do not get along.
        • Basil: Basil loves the sun!! Yea! So why not basil and rosemary?  Water of course. Basil loves the sun; yet, needs a consistently moist bed.   Rosemary, yep.. must have dry soil!
        • Other plants with the same conflicts include:Cucumbers, zinnias, tomatoes and any plant that loves moist hot conditions.
        • Squash:  Why? Powdery mildew.  Squash and pumpkins or other plants in the squash family have a tendency for powdery mildew.  Rosemary, although resistant to bugs, is prone to powdery mildew. Planting them together promotes situations where one or the other plants are consistently passing it back and forth.

Next in works on this series

    • Growing rosemary from cuttings

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Growing Serranos

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by www.Vegogarden.com !

Growing Serrano peppers is a joy. These peppers are similar to a Jalapeno with a much longer thinner body and a bit of a hotter taste. Although, I have personally found the Serrano Chili's flavor to be smoother than the jalapeno, making the heat seem much milder. These shiny green peppers are also red or yellow or orange depending on how long they are left on the plant.

Serranos are simply a wonderful pepper for the garden one plant can provide as many as a 100 peppers in a season. They are also extremely easy to grow or pickle and can be used in any recipe where a jalapeno has traditionally been used.

Tips for Growing Serranos!

  • Plant Serrano's after all fear of frost has passed; or, start indoors using a heat pad to ensure soil is warm for germination. 
  • Once planted outdoors use a well drained loamy soil with good organic matter and some compost.  I use a bag of Black Cow Compost mixed in with the soil.
  • Serrano's do best in full sun.  In zones 7 and above it can get upwards of a hundred degrees and Serrano peppers do well even in the heat; so, plant them in a sunny spot.  

  • Water Serrano's once every three to four days very deeply rather than every day. This promotes strong roots that keeps them healthy even in harsh weather.
  • Serrano's grow well with a little bit of used Coffee grinds once a month along with Epsom salt and Fish Emulsion sprayed on their leaves. I prefer Alaska Fish Emulsion .
Sorrano Peppers grown in raised bed www.Vegogarden.com ! Lovely boots by www.WesternChief.com
  • Plan accordingly for space with Serrano's making sure to allow 18 inches in between each plant for the leaves to spread.
  • Plan to cage Serrano's or provide some type of staking as  branches tend to get heavy when producing peppers.

Companion Plants

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by Vego Garden! Haul garden gear in style with Vego Garden bags!

Marigolds, chives, garlic, onions, sunflowers, beans, tomatoes, corn, zinnias all grow well together with Serrano peppers!

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Western Chief is my go to Garden boots and shoes.  So comfortable from home to garden for work and play! Use oma20 at checkout for 20% off!

I do make a small percentage for each product sold, so that I may in turn offer those discounts to you.  

 

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Relocating Plants

It's Spring!!  And, it seems all I want to do is move things around in order to get ready for it!   Its almost like that spring fever some get.  You know where one wants to clean their house and rearrange their furniture.  The room feels so new, so clean.   The garden does the same thing to me.  The only difference being when relocating plants, instead of simply shoving the furniture around and being slightly horrified at the mess found below it, roots have to come up.  That's right the entire plant has to be moved and this for some can be a little scary; it doesn't have to be.

Why would one relocate plants?

I have to admit I relocate plants all the times.  Some of my babies have been moved as many as three times.  Why? The biggest reason is expanding the garden.  Take these lavender plants for example.  They were in the perfect place... last year; sitting right at the boarder of my garden.  However, after once again expanding the space they are no longer perfectly placed and have to be moved.   Other reasons could include realizing the perfect place is not perfect.  The plants are not happy.  They are either experiencing too much, or not enough sun or even water etc.  Regardless of the reason, if your on a journey to relocate your plant babies use these tips to help with the transition.

Choose the right day! 

Choosing the day is the number one thing to consider when relocating plants.  Bottom line never move plants unless you absolutely have to on an extremely hot bright sunny day.  That's right, extreme heat can add horrible stress to the plant as it tries to recover so don't move them in the heat.  The best time to move plants is either on a cool sunny in spring or my favorite an overcast cloudy day with a soft rainy occurring.  Doing this makes all the difference to ones plants.

Maintain as much of the root ball and as possible.

Some roots will be lost however savings as much as one can will ensure a fast transition to the new space.

Add Epsom salt to the new spot. 

We are not the only ones who feel relaxed in an Epsom bath.  Nope its the perfect thing to add to plants.  Just a few teaspoons mixed into the soil is perfect to help them relax through the move.  Visit my article Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!  for more details on Epsom in your garden.

Keep soil the same level as previously found.

Make note how the plant is sitting in its current space.  Dig the new hole large enough to set the plant fully in the ground and fill the soil back to the same plant height.

Water, water, water

Water should be a given; however here are a few things to help the plants establish faster.

  • Fill the entire new hole with water prior to placing the root ball into it, then fill the soil in over the water.  Yes the soil will soak it up. This helps ensure soft moist soil the now weakened roots can push through as they re-establish themselves.  Second, even if its a plant that prefers little water, provide them a bit extra over the next few weeks.  Don't drown them, ensure however the soil stays semi-moist. Again, this allows those wounded roots to easily take ownership and start to regrow.

In a strange way relocating plants successfully does give one that same feeling of walking into a new room.  Especially when completed successfully, so use these tips and move those babies as needed around that wonderful new space.

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