Category: There’s More!

Soil, shrubs, insects and other things us gardeners love to dabble in!

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When to Start Seeds Indoors – Timing is Everything!

“When do I start my seeds?” 

It’s not surprising that this is the question I get the most.  After all, there are so many plants, so many time zones, and so many ways to start a seed.  Many new timers are confused about when to start, how to start or what to start when it comes to seeds for their garden. This is also not surprising as growing plants from seeds is one of the most natural things a gardener can do!  The truth is this a great question! Why? Because, for most time zones there are only so many growing days in the season!  One does not want to use the bulk of that time growing their plant, they want to use the bulk of that time harvesting food.    Starting seeds indoors, helps ensure this can occur as quickly as possible; and, plants are as strong as can be once they are transplanted outside!   

Like several things it often comes down to a few good tips.  For me, after three decades of trying, failing, trying and succeeding, those few quick tips have come down to the three “T’s,” Timing, Tools, and Tending!  This article will focus on Timing and one of the best ways I have found to determine when it’s time to start ones seeds! 

“Is there a Simpler Way”

Beleive it or not knowing when to start your seeds can be quite simple; and, many an issue can be resolved by first gathering three bits of information:

1.  Last Frost Date:  There is usually a spring frost before spring is consistently warm. This last spring frost is known as the “Last Frost Date.” The date in ones area where the last of the cold hits, and the consistent warmth of spring actually starts.   There are multiple places on the web to find out where your last frost date is.  My favorite is the  Farmers Almanac First and Last Frost Dates  calander!   In most cases, this is the date you can consider starting to plant outdoors!

2.  Time to Harvest: Time to harvest is litterally the time it takes a plant to actually produce fruit! The grwoth time before your eating your produce!  The “Time to Harvest” is most often found on the front or back of a seed packet and can range anywhere from 25 days up to a much as 100 days.  

3. Growth Time before Transplanting:  The time one wants their plants to have to grow prior to planting them outside.   A good range is 30% to 50% of the total “Time to Harvest (2).”   The larger percentage of course meaning the plants will be indoors longer.

“Ok so now what?”

So  you know your “Last Frost Date”, your “Time to Harvest” and the “Growth Time before Transplanting” now what? Utilize the “Growth Time before Transplanting” and your “Last Frost Date” to back into the seed start date.   

For example: Hot Peppers can take up to 100 days before the ‘Time to Harvest” is reached.  Targeting 50% of that means the “Growth time before Transplanting” is approximatly 50 days.  Lets look at that example using my zones!

    1. Last Frost Date in My Zone:  April 1 
    2. Time to Harvest for Hot Peppers: 100 Days  
    3. Growth Time Before Planting Outside:  50 Days (50% of Time to Harvest)
    4. Date to start seeds: February 11 
  • Seeds would need to be started by February 11th to allow for a “Growth Time before Transplanting” of at lease 50 days (50% of the “Time to Harvest”)  by the time I reached my “Last Frost Date”!   

There you Go! Now get out there and grow some seeds!

Comming Soon:

How to Grow From Seeds – Tools Are Everything!

 

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Planning for Spring in Five Steps!

I took a deliberate walk around the gardens this morning. What did I find?  Life; little signs of spring, or even better signs of life, all around me. The rebirth of so many things.  It’s no wonder so many people feel this is their absolute favorite time of the year. What better time is there for planning and to refresh one’s mind then this new life stage?  As Solomon said in his songs, “See! The winter is past; the rains are over and gone. Flowers appear on the earth; the season of singing has come, the cooing of doves is heard in our land… Arise, come, my darling; my beautiful one, come with me.”   

How can you prepare your existing beds for spring?

For a gardener there is no better time than spring!  We plan for it all winter and long for it all summer!  Although Fall does offer just as much growth it still seldom rivals the feeling of life we find in spring.   Yes, there are a few simple steps we can take to prepare for its greatness!

1) Walk your space

The first step in preparing your existing beds for spring is simply walking your space!  Just as I did today grab a nice cup of coffee and walk your gardens. This is not a journey of work but one of discovery!   

Your goal here is to simply open your eyes to what life is appearing from last season. Find what is coming back or what needs removed.  Most gardens, even if all annuals, will have some sign that it’s time to prep for spring.    

2) Look for New growth

Did you have roses, trees, or  perennial flowers? Check for signs of green 

coming back around the dead growth. For roses those signature bright purplish red leaves that show up in spring or, for fruit trees the small buds starting to form on the branches from last year.  Make note where its coming up and also make note of any dead growth left from last season.

3) Look for residual or dead foliage

 

Look for green coming up around dead foliage from the last season.  This is a great sign that your plants are doing well and are as ready for  the spring as you are! Notice if there is dead foliage around the new and plan for the best time to start to cut this back .

4) Plan for trimming and clean-up

Most of your plants that return annually will need some kind of trim or clean up.  However, don’t be too anxious to do this. More than likely you will see the first signs of life on your walk several weeks before you should clean off the old.  For example: I am in Zone 8. My signs of spring most often start to show up towards the end of February. I see new growth on my lavender, daisies etc. However without a doubt I will continue to have freezes on and off through the end of March. As such, I should hold on my urge to remove this dead foliage until I know for sure my cold is truly gone.  Why? This bit of leftover foliage offers warmth for the new babies underneath them. How will you know when?

Follow your weather patterns.  One should trim within a week or so of what is considered that last freeze in your area.    If you have plants you’re not sure of you can reach out; we can figure it out!

5) Prep your bare garden areas

Make note of any bare spots you have. The places in your beds that will hold all your new plants such as peppers, tomatoes, corn, beans etc. Do a quick soil test See: Step 2 of a Successful Garden: Soil Assessments and check if you need refreshing.   

  • Add fresh compost! If you have not added fresh soil in a few seasons then you probably need a few bags. I like to refresh annually with Black Kow compost. If it’s an existing bed probably a few bags in each of your spaces will be plenty. Work it into your existing soil spreading it across your beds. This picture here is for both new beds and a refresh of old!  Therefore, the amount you need could vary based on the size of your beds and rather they are new or not!
  • Add fresh peat moss twice a year, once in spring and once in fall.  Peat Moss can be controversial for some.  It is 100% natural which is why I love it, however it’s and taken from the bogs and this is where some have concern.   As such, I try to not use it excessively more as a winter and spring prep! Coconut moss is also an option if one prefers not to use Peat. 
  • Add leftover banana or orange peels in with the fresh compost!
  • Add all of your stored coffee grinds at this time along with eggshells you have been holding over winter! Mix all  of these items in with your existing soil at least three weeks before your first plants go in!  Allow it to sit in your beds and start their decomposition process while starting your seeds.

In Closing!

Starting your spring prep process can be so fun! Yes, it’s work of course but it allows you to see the life that is just around the corner!  To envision what is coming and clear your mind of what has been!  This walk motivates you to get out there and enjoy your first blast of warmth after a long season of cold. 

And, it doesn’t hurt either if you whisper to your gardens in the words of Solomon… “Arise, come, my darlings; my beautiful ones, come with me,” spring is upon us, and my life and your’s is beautiful!

 

 

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Using Corn Stalks in your Garden

Using dried corn leaves for mulch

How do you use your corn stalks? I know several of you across the globe from me in places like Australia are gaining momentum and starting to hit your summer months in what is my winter! That means if you have planted corn your close to harvesting those babies and will be left with rows of corn stalks, leaves and husks. Those of you in the states like me in January are planning for your corn beds. As your seasons progress keep in mind some of the benefits of the corn stalks and leaves.

To Compost or Not to Compost

I used to throw all of the entire plant in the composter.  However, over the last few seasons I have started composting the husks as soon as I peel my corn and using the stalks and leaves real-time in my gardens as a natural wordless mulch!

Mulching your beds is great for moister retention and helps with water maintainance. However, using only wood mulch at times can make it hard to get into the dirt. Personally, I like to be able to easily move my soil.  In addition, if you’re in an area prone to termites and your beds are around your house, using wood mulch that will consistently be wet or moist may not be the best thing for your home.

Using your corn stalks in your beds

There are so many alternatives to using only wood. Your gardens plants can make some amazing mulch especially plants like asparagus and corn. Consider allowing your stalks a bit of time to die down after your corn is harvested. Let them stand until they have lost some of their green. You can still plant below them as they start to die. Leaving  them in the soil for a bit actually looks cool! More so however it helps return some of those used nutrients back to the ground.

Once your plants have lost some of their green lift them from the beds and chop them into small pieces. They will decompose faster this way. Lay them around your plants as you would mulch; or, till them into your beds. Both of these methods will help put organic matter back into you soil!1

 

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Step 2 of a Successful Garden: Soil Assessments

The health of the soil in ones garden is as important as the foundation of their home! As such, once someone has decided where they want to place a new bed, or even if they are using existing beds over and over again each season, an assessment of the soil should be completed. There are so many things to look at when it comes to soil one might wonder where to start. Two  primary options when determining the validity of your soils are:

Having your soil tested.

This process can take up to two weeks.  Stick around and I’ll share the ins and out of this as I go through a soil test for my beds in spring.

Performing a self assessment of your soil.

Self assessments are what I have used through the majority of my gardening life.  One does learn over time to look for specific signs that will help them determine the health of their soil. However, self assessments can be risky for new gardeners unless they have a good guideline on what to look for.  Luckily there is a very structured process one can follow that was created by Oregon State University to determine the health of a garden’s soil.

Oregon State  recommends five assessments a year covering 10 steps ranging from soil to water to plant life. We will review each of these steps in a series of articles and how to videos over the next few months.  However, let’s kick off the bulk of the assessments by focusing first on soil health  and how to asses the texture and structure of your soil

Soil Assessment 1: Texture and Structure

The texture and structure of the soil is how it is put together, how it moves, handles water, and allows plants to grow.  As such, soil texture is paramount to ones garden. Soil should have a crumb structure and be friable, (easily crumbled). It should also have good porosity so air, water, roots and organisms can  move freely within the soil. This is a balance game though. Why? Because soil that is too friable probably has poor aggregate stability, it won’t hold structure well or retain water well. If on the other hand it does not break apart at all, it’s too hard, cemented or full of clay there will be issues; organisms will not be able to move through the soil.

Many things can impact the quality of your soil.  Day-to-day life, weather, erosion, what and when one plant, as well as tilling or not tilling can impact positively or negatively a gardens soils texture.  

Completing the Assessment

First off ensure your attempting your assessment when your soil is neither too dry, too wet or frozen.  You will need a shovel (or tool to dig into the soil with) and a spray bottle with water.  

  • Choose a few areas of the garden that is considered representative. 
  • Dig a 6 – 10 inch deep area
    • Scoop up a portion of soil that is about the size and volume of a can of soup.  
    • Review the soil, are their crumbs, clumps of clay, granular soil only?  
    • If there are crumbs present squeeze them and note the amount of pressure it takes to collapse them while dry.  

  • Gently wet some of the crumbs and try to collapse them while wet.  Does this require more or less pressure?
  •  

Assessing the Findings

    • Lowest health:  Soil has powdery, massive or flaky structure without any visible crumbs.
    • Moderate Health:  There are some crumbs present yet they break under slight pressure.  They are also far more fragile when wet.
    • Best Health: Soil  is friable and crumbly! It has a clear crumb structure that maintains its shape under pressure even when wet and can also still be broken between one’s fingers!

Four easy steps to improve least desirable results

1: Allow plants to decompose naturally if possible. 

Late summer flowers naturally dying down

Allowing plants to decompose naturally is important to an organic garden. Not only that but if done correctly adds beauty to a garden and another season of life.  Decomposition promotes organic growth in the soil. On the other hand leaving soil completely empty for long periods of time can drive erosion or overly compacted soil making it hard to manage or work through.  

2: Have clear walkways through your garden!  

Stone Path for getting through the center of the garden

This is one of the simplest things to do. Consider what one weighs.  Consistently walking through the beds one is planting in can compact the soil to the point that it is no longer friable.  Therefore, create beauty and character in your garden while also respecting your soil by laying small stepping-stones through your beds.  Create committed walk ways such as my path directly down the middle of my large beds here. Plan for clearly laid out walkways between plants.  Giving enough room to walk through for harvest but not touching the base soil the plants are thriving in.

3: Add organic matter to your soil!  

Using dried corn leaves for mulch

Organic matter promotes organisms in your garden that break your soil down,  It also promotes drainage and worms. Here are some cheap and easy ways to add organic matter to your soil.

  • Using eggshells in your garden! 
  • Coffee grinds in your garden!
  • Add orange or banana peals
  • Utilize Peat or Coconut Moss
  • Save dried Leaves
  • Use corn leaves for mulch
  • Add compost annually
  • Grow companion plants that support your main crops but easily break down in your garden all summer long.  Borage, Comfrey, Yarrow, Marigolds

4: Use cover crops in the winter.

Garlic in Winter

In my experience the best cover crops are winter garden plants such as snow peas, cabbage, sweet peas, lettuce, radishes, garlic and other plants that love the cold.

These plants not only keep your soil busy but enable you to continue to eat the freshest foods available over your winter months. Other options are grassy plants, that die down easily preventing the need for heavy tilling such as alfalfa or buckwheat,

Want to see more?

Register with Oma’s Gardens and get notified as these and more steps are completed surrounding soil assessments over the next few weeks:

  • Compacted Layers of Soil: Garden Soil Assessment 2
  • Soil Work-ability: Garden Soil Assessment 3
  • Soil Organisms: Garden Soil Assessment 4
  • Earthworm Abundance: Garden Soil Assessment 5
  • Water Infiltration and Availability: Garden Soil Assessment 6

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The Planning

Sometimes this is my favorite place to be. Right here in an empty dying bed. Against a fence line still in PJ’s with coffee and quite. The left over struggling plants at my feet and around me. The gardens not clean it’s not really alive but it is waiting! It’s waiting for me to decide what i want it to become. For the planning yet to happen! How i want it to look and smell and the colors i want it to show.

Impression

How many things in life do we get to mold that completely? Our children are probably the only other thing we have that much power to impress our thoughts upon. Even they however will take their own path. I suppose plants will too at times. You plan one thing and something else comes out of it! But.. like your children when it turns out right the garden is a wonder to behold! That’s what i can do here along this fence when the garden is dead; plan for the wonder. Plan for the beauty and the life an empty garden promises to bring! Find your fence line folks, happy Friday!

 

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Step One of a New Garden: Location, Location, Location!

So you read the Eight Steps to a Successful New Garden and want a bit more details!  Great!  This article covers in detail Step One of a New Garden: Location! It also covers each of the sub items one should consider when looking for a good location. So…. let’s get started!

Location, Location,  Location!

They say this in real estate and it applies for gardening as well! Wait.. not plants?  No.  Plants are important and one should have an idea of what their wanting to plant. Several of these steps somewhat work together and one will find themselves at times considering them all! However, the location plants will reside is more important.  Not dirt? No. Not dirt location!

In my humble experience location is the number one thing one must consider when starting a new bed.  Why? Simply put, how important is ones home to them?  The spot one is planting in will be the home to their plants.  The location selected for a garden will be where they live and thrive.   Just as humans look for a home that “feels” right,” ones garden will 100% define if plants “feel right” growing there.  And believe me you want your plants feeling right.

Another reason  to consider location first is it forces the advanced thought and planning needed in all future steps. especially planting and landscaping steps. One can modify their space once a location is established, to a point; however, some limitations cannot be modified.  As such, when looking at location options, consider these sub items before making a final decision:

A: What is the direction of the sun in relation to the potential location?  

The direction of the sun in relation to a garden is paramount.  My very first garden was a failure because I did not consider this in the vicinity of my location.  What happened? I selected a spot that faced west and then planted shade loving plants!  What, they were pretty? They looked so lovely there! Until, they burned from the west sun. 

The direction of the sun will not necessarily stop an individual from planting in said location.   It can however,  define the kinds of plants one can sustain in the area being considered.  It may limit ones options and require planning to overcome issues of too much or too little sun. 

My space for example would have been fine if I had understood the importance of the sun. Tall plants or objects placed around the shade loving babies I selected could have protected them. Therefore, when considering a location study the sun and make note of the following:

  •  Does the location face North, South, East or West?  
  • Make note of the sun’s intensity (is it full, partial or shade)?
  • Study how the sun looks in the morning at noon and in the evening and make note of the differences.

Doing this ensures by Steps two and three (Soil and Plants) there has been thought in regards to the sun and its power.  It also helps plan for Step 7 Watering!

B: Are structures near the potential location (s)?

Consider in advance what structures surround prospective locations!  For example my shade loving plants, where that west sun hit, set against a big brick 1house.  I may as well have set them in an oven. West sun hitting hot brick all day long?  Oh yeah it was fry time! Look for the following clues to impacts on the sun with your structures:

  • Does the location being considered sit next to a house, a barn, a shed, a building, a tree, shrubs or taller plants?  
  • In relation to sun (Consideration A) do said structures create shade at certain points of the day, make it hotter or completely blocking the sun? 

Structures can be your best friend or your worst enemy.   Some structures can enable the perfect balance of sun and shade. Giving morning or afternoon sun and offering protection in high heat or cold wind. They can also completely take the sun away limiting one to only plants that live in the shade.  As such, look at the structures around a potential location. Make note of said structures and their potential benefit to plants and use this information in the final location decision.   

C: Are you using an existing bed or will you build from scratch?  

The final thing to consider is the positive or negative impacts of using an existing bed versus building from scratch. Using an existing space does not always mean your garden efforts will be easier.

  • On the positive side: a preexisting bed may mean less clean up. Perhaps an easier effort at removing deeply established grass.  It could also mean the soil has been rotated at some point, perhaps adding simplicity to revitalization of the area.  
  • On the negative side: a preexisting bed could mean additional work. Perhaps the removal of rocks from a once rock garden. The removal of heavily established shrubs, trees or sedentary objects such as water features arbors or other items to allow for sun etc.

Take time to decide if a new garden or an existing garden would offer more benefits and capture the impacts to the potential location. Capture the data gathered in this analysis stage, write it down and make a preliminary decision!

Here is a quick Video on putting Step 1 to use. The goal is to find a spot that gives the MOST options for planting and to know in advance what limitations one will have.   

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Eight Steps to a Successful New Garden

So you want to start a new garden?  Outstanding! I like to say, “planting a garden is the first step to true serenity.”   It can also however, be the first step to frustration and anger if one does not plan appropriately.  So where do you start; there are so many things to consider when planting a garden? For example: What plants do you want?  Do you want flowers or vegetables or trees or all? Are you doing landscaping for your front yard or planting for your backyard?  Do you want a personal retreat or a public oasis? Maybe you’re just trying fix that corner that’s been bothering you for years!  Regardless, you wish there was a checklist you could look at to guide you through this process. Well… here you go; eight steps to a new garden!

Garden Steps Checklist

Below is a simple checklist that can be used covering 8 steps to a successful new garden space.  

1:     Location, Location, Location! 

Look closely at the location you’re considering. Always ask the following questions when deciding where a new garden location will be:

  • What is the direction of the sun in relation to the potential location?
  • Are there Structures Around the area?
  • Is there an existing garden in the location or will this be a new garden?

2:     Soil; the foundation of your new garden! 

The health of your soil is as important as the foundation on your home!

  • Work this item in combination with Step 3 as you may have to consistently modify as you determine the types of plants preferred!
  • What is the texture of the soil?
  • What is the drainage of your soil like?
  • What amendments do you need? 

3:     What plants work best in the selected location?

If your primary is veggies plan for time to take care of them!

  • How much time is available for plant maintenance?
  • Will the plants wanted still work in this spot?
  • Tie 1 and 2 together! Is there a need to modify original thoughts on the location or soil?

4:     Landscape

  • Based on 3, What design will support the space?
  • Allowing for proper drainage (Use knowledge from Step 2 for landscaping needs surrounding drainage)
  • Is there a need to add trees or other tall plants to support primary plants?

5:     Planting Time  A: !

Transplanting or Sowing which is best?

  • Transplanting 
  • Direct Sowing

6:     Planting Time B!: 

  • Structures Needed for Plant Support

7:     Watering! 

8:     On-Going Maintenance

  • Trimming
  • Weeding
  • Harvesting

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Managing Powdery Mildew

Your walking around the garden looking at the all the beauty and notice this white powder that looks like its floating across your leaves.   What is that?  Well if you have had lots of rain, lots of humidity or have plants growing in a tight spot then you are more than likely dealing with powdery mildew. 

Powdery Mildew showing up on my Gourds!

About Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease that actually has several different strains.  Figures it would want to ensure it is available to a wide variation of plants!  It is most active in temperatures that range from around 68 to 90 degrees nights being the cooler of the range.   This means one will find it more often in their spring and fall beds which is right where my issues are showing up!  It’s also more often to show up during heavy rainy periods with high humidity.

Because there are multiple strains you will not always find it spreading; however, if you have like families of plants together watch out.  It can take over quickly if not cared for.  For example if you plant your Cucurbita together (Squash, Pumpkin etc) what ever strain hits one will quickly spread to the next.

Powdery Mildew on my pumpkins which are growing right next to cucumbers

What is on your Zinnias (another plant that is susceptible) will not effect your roses It will however effect other plants that are members of the same composite family.  Powdery Mildew is air born so be careful when removing effected leaves and never place them in your compost.

Easy Tips for Managing Powdery Mildew

  • The most common recipe is Baking Soda(1 tbsp); Dish-washing soap (2 tsp) and one gallon of water.  Spray this on your plants when the sun is low so as not to burn them.  Baking soda can also be strong for some plants so test them one day and check them the next before full application.  Adjust the tbsp down accordingly to 1/2 tbsp if needed.
  • Neem Oil, the pure organic cold pressed oil not what is pre-mixed, is also great.  Mix 1 tsp in with your baking soda. You can also substitute Neem Oil at 2 tsp in place of baking powder.
  • Milk has been reported to help stop the growth of powdery mildew.  I have not tried this recipe. I plan to test it out this month with the issues I have going on right now. I will update on that result!  Mix is 60/40 with milk at 60%.

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Using Sunflower Stalks in Your Garden!

If you’re a Gardner like me you’re always looking for ways to re-use!   One spends so much time and money on their gardens anyway.  Why not find ways to utilize the plants they grow, (outside of the obvious food of course)!  This was my thought when I started investigating using Sunflower or Okra stalks in my vegetable beds.   I mean Sunflowers are just a beautiful addition to any garden and I plant them everywhere!

Skyscrapers along the back

Mammoth Sunflowers by the Arbor

Skyscrapers Around the Pond

Corn and sunflowers

What really grabbed my attention was the size of them.   Some of these plants grow so tall and the stalks are so large that it just seemed right to use them in the gardens if possible.  As a result, over the last season, I have been testing out both sunflower and okra stalks as tepees and as slat holders in my space.  Here are some tips I have learned on reusing these giant plants.

Tips on using Sunflower and Okra Stalks

  • The stalks of the skyscraper sunflowers can range from three to four inches around at the largest point.  Some even get as high as fifteen feet.  These can make beautiful natural poles for beans etc. As such, if they are in the right spot you may consider not cutting them at all.

    Skyscraper Sunflower sawed for drying

    Plant your veining plants at the base of them and allow them to simply crawl their way up.

However, If you need to utilize your stalks in a spot other than where they grew,  pull them up and clean them for drying.

 

  • Utilize a small saw to cut them at the base of the plant.  After removing several of them I found it easier, (at least on the larger plants ) to cut them first and deal with the roots later.

    Saw the stalks at the base of the plant
  • Prepare stalks for drying by removing any leaves, stems, flowers etc remaining on the plants.  Do  NOT cut the leaves or stems all the way to the stalk!  Allow about an inch of length to remain.

    Leave about an inch of the stem on your stalks while cleaning

    This sounds odd; however, once dry this tip hardens, and provides great handles for string, twine or rope.

  • Drying is very important.  Okra stalks were harder to dry.  I lost several to mold while attempting to dry them over the fall and winter season.  The weather was too cold and wet.   Sunflower stalks dried much faster and easier with less loss.   As such if your planning on using Okra it’s best to grow them in the spring and use the summer sun to dry them with.
  • Find a place that has full sun and keep them off the ground.   An arbor can provide the perfect spot!

    Sunflower stalks drying on the arbor

  • Sunflower stalks took about 45 days to fully dry.  At that point they were ready for the garden.
  • For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together.  It’s also helpful to dig out the area the  tepees will fill prior to tying them up.

    Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!

You can find Sunflower and Okra stalks all over my beds.  The larger stalks were used for zucchini and Gourds

Zucchini took up lots of space before the stalks.

Stalks in place, Zucchini now off the ground!

Underestimated the weight of the gourds! Vines were hanging low.

Larger Stalks held the weight lifting them above the plants below them

Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!

Smaller stalks make perfect bean or cantaloupe tepees.

Overall I have been very satisfied with the beauty and versatility these wonderful plants add to a garden.  Once your flowers are gone, before you throw them out, look around your area and make sure there is not a place their stalks are needed!   Here is a quick video to cover a bit of the content on this article!

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