Tag: garden planning

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Herbal Face Food Plant of the Month: Yarrow

It's time for the Herbal Face Food(HFF) Plant of the Month!  A monthly dedication to the various plants used by HFF to create their amazing skin care products.  This months HFF plant moment is dedicated to the amazing Yarrow. 

Yarrow has become one of my favorite wild herbs. Those who don't have it in their gardens probably are not aware of its medicinal and health benefits. Yarrow provides vitamins A, C potassium, zinc, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and niacin.  Yarrow is also commonly known as  an astringent with anti-inflammatory properties which is one of the main draws  and with all of this its no wonder HFF wants Yarrow in their amazing serums.

About Yarrow

Yarrow originated from Europe and Asia and is now commonly found all around the globe. The scientific name for Yarrow is Achillea millefolium other names include common yarrow (the white wild Yarrow), nosebleed plant or soldier's wound wort.   Several of these names tell us clearly that one of the benefits of Yarrow is blood and wound dressing.   Dr. Nicole Apelian describes Yarrow in her book, The Lost Book of Herbal Remedies as, “nature's tourniquet.” 

Yarrow comes in several colors from white to light pinks and purples to red and yellow.  kidadl.com has a great list of specific types including their colors!   I have read however that common Yarrow, that grows wild with white flowers is the best and strongest for medicinal use.  

Benefits of Yarrow

The benefits of Yarrow are so vast, it truly is an amazing plant for skin.  Here are just a few of the uses:  

    • Yarrow can be used in teas fresh or dried for nausea or stomach flues, hard menstrual cycles or reducing fevers (as it creates sweating).  Women that are pregnant should not drink Yarrow tea.  
    • Powder from dried yarrow can be used to stop bleeding (many sites caution not to use on deep wounds as it will heal it too quickly from the inside). 
    • Fresh yarrow leaves can also be used as a poultice for bleeding and the leaves can be used for stopping nose bleeds. 
    • Yarrow helps reduce swelling in bruises, or sprains or can be used as a antibacterial on scratches or minor cuts. 
    • Yarrow flowers can be used in baths for itchy skin or hives.  
    • The leaves and flowers can be made into a tincture with Alcohol or as an oil in olive oil or carrier oils.  It can even be made into a salve with beeswax and infused yarrow oil.
    • Yarrow can be substituted for hops and barley in beer and and mead.

Continue The Journey: Read more about growing and using this wonderful plant:

Brought to you by Herbal Face Food

The plant of the month series brought to you by  Herbal Face Food.  A company I'm very happy to support.  Each of their products are made with 100% plants! The most powerful plants in the world.   As they say, "HFF is not plant based it's plant powered" bringing together up to 100 different plants depending on the product.  HFF is the only 100% plant based skin care product on the market.  Note: I do make a small commission on  referrals.  As a result I'm able to offer a 20% discount to my readers along with tips on how to grow and use these same wonderful plants in your own home or plot gardens.

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Growing Tabasco Peppers

I get simple enjoyment out of growing Tabasco peppers. They remind me of thanksgiving and Christmas all rolled into one.  I know it sounds strange but it's the colors.  They are like little bulbs standing straight and tall in beautiful shades of orange and red.  The happiness they make me feel when I see them in the yard all bright and beautiful against the dying fall garden is just that, pure happiness.  

About Tabasco

Tabasco originates in mexico. They have a heat level that ranges from 30,000 to 50,000 on the heat scale. It's heat compares to the Cayenne pepper and has a hotter burn than the jalapeno pepper.  I love it however, on eggs and in stews and salsa. Tabasco's are tapered and grow about 2 to 3 inches in length and are most famous for the world renowned Tabasco hot sauce.

Growing Tabasco

    • Tabasco takes about 80 to 90 days to grow.  Therefore one should plan to start them indoors if living in a climate with short summer periods. 
    • Start seeds in loose soil set about ½ inch down.  I like using Grow mate Organics Root Max to give them an exceptional start.
    • Tabasco needs warm temperatures from 75 degrees up.
    • Plant in a sunny location with well draining soil and feed them monthly with Epsom salt and Coffee Grinds. I also had great results spraying them monthly with Happy Tree Microbes 
    • Tabasco needs room to branch! Plant to space the plants between 1.5-2 feet apart from each other.
    • Harvest Tabasco when the peppers have turned orange or red.  Be careful though they turn quick! They can hit that red color and within a day or so start to brown out. As such be ready for harvest! Tabasco can be harvested when green or pale yellow and allowed to ripen indoors if needed. Their flavor however is best when harvested at the last minute!
    • Tabasco needs around an inch of water a week, heavier watering during fruiting!  I allow them to dry between watering.  However, if temps reach above 95 degrees and they are fruiting, lean towards a consistent slightly moist soil to help avoid calcium issues. For example,  blossom end rot.

Companion Planting with Tabasco Plants

There is mixed opinion on Tabasco plants in regards to companion planting.  I read years ago from Homeguides SFGates to plant them separate from tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. to avoid soil borne diseases prevalent in these types of plants.  Other sites promote them together.  Personally I have always kept my peppers separate, grown in another spot away from tomatoes and eggplant and practice planting with the following:

    • Zinnias, Basil, Garlic Chives, Marigolds, Lavender and Rosemary.
    • Planting peppers around these flowers supports both plants.  The flowers bring pollinators that help peppers have the best possible fruiting,  In return peppers help protect the flowers from insects that don't like the smell of hot spicy peppers.  

In The Works

    • Tabasco Hot Sauce Recipe !

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Growing Serranos

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by www.Vegogarden.com !

Growing Serrano peppers is a joy. These peppers are similar to a Jalapeno with a much longer thinner body and a bit of a hotter taste. Although, I have personally found the Serrano Chili's flavor to be smoother than the jalapeno, making the heat seem much milder. These shiny green peppers are also red or yellow or orange depending on how long they are left on the plant.

Serranos are simply a wonderful pepper for the garden one plant can provide as many as a 100 peppers in a season. They are also extremely easy to grow or pickle and can be used in any recipe where a jalapeno has traditionally been used.

Tips for Growing Serranos!

  • Plant Serrano's after all fear of frost has passed; or, start indoors using a heat pad to ensure soil is warm for germination. 
  • Once planted outdoors use a well drained loamy soil with good organic matter and some compost.  I use a bag of Black Cow Compost mixed in with the soil.
  • Serrano's do best in full sun.  In zones 7 and above it can get upwards of a hundred degrees and Serrano peppers do well even in the heat; so, plant them in a sunny spot.  

  • Water Serrano's once every three to four days very deeply rather than every day. This promotes strong roots that keeps them healthy even in harsh weather.
  • Serrano's grow well with a little bit of used Coffee grinds once a month along with Epsom salt and Fish Emulsion sprayed on their leaves. I prefer Alaska Fish Emulsion .
Sorrano Peppers grown in raised bed www.Vegogarden.com ! Lovely boots by www.WesternChief.com
  • Plan accordingly for space with Serrano's making sure to allow 18 inches in between each plant for the leaves to spread.
  • Plan to cage Serrano's or provide some type of staking as  branches tend to get heavy when producing peppers.

Companion Plants

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by Vego Garden! Haul garden gear in style with Vego Garden bags!

Marigolds, chives, garlic, onions, sunflowers, beans, tomatoes, corn, zinnias all grow well together with Serrano peppers!

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Amazingly Edible Sunflower

 

It's no secret I love Sunflowers.  They’re on my fence, in my yard and make up about 60% of my tepees and arbors!  However, let's talk about the amazingly edible sunflower plant!  And not just seeds, all of the plant from the roots to the stalks to the leaves, petals and the seeds are edible.  The majority of the entire sunflower can be eaten.  It's quite amazing actually that most only know of the seeds; and, is the exact reason for this quick series starting with the leaves of the sunflower plants.    

Let's Talk Sunflower Leaves!

Sunflower leaves are simply a joy to me.  Why?  They are so large, so strong and thick they are like pieces of leather on larger sunflower plants. They are beautiful to look at in a garden adding depth and color, texture and even height.   The giant leaves add shade to plants on hot afternoons, helping to extend the lives of cold crops if grown above them. All of this is enough for one to love them.   Imagine the excitement when discovering they’re also edible!  I won't lie, sunflowers have a bite that's hard to explain; it's an extremely unique bitter flavor. Nutty in a way almost peppery as well.  Lets look at ways to eat them!

Young Shoots

Young sunflower shoots are edible microgreens!  Unlike their older siblings that get bitter with age, the microgreens are super soft, have a thick feel and at this point are actually sweet.  Shoots are often grown in window gardens and used on salads and on sandwiches. Let some of the seeds fall each season and the yard will be so full there will be no issues sacrificing many of the babies to the microgreen category!  

Tender Leaves

Tender leaves, those that are still young on soft stalks can be eaten raw in salads. The entire leaf can be eaten at this stage without removing the veins.  Although, they actually taste slightly more bitter to me at this stage believe it or not, I prefer the mid adult leaves.   One can soften the flavor some by removing the center vein of the leaf. 

Large Adult Leaves

Large adult leaves can be cooked like greens, boiled, sauteed or steamed with salt, garlic and butter.  The older they get the tougher they get and the longer they take to cook. When using the super large leaves, boiling first is best with a water refresh.   I like to harvest the leaves in the mid range size prior to blooming.  Once flowers bloom the leaves naturally start to die down.   

I did say they are like the bitter lettuces, with a bite that leaves you wondering how to describe them. Serving with savory dishes compliments the bite of this beautiful green!  They are also wonderful with mushrooms.  The earthy flavor of mushrooms  complements the greens well and they do great with fatty meats.

Here is a recipe for eating with fatty meats

    • 5 to 6 midsize Sunflower leaves
    • 1 quarter purple onion
    • 3 to 4 (or more if your like me 5) garlic cloves 
    • Balsamic vinegar
    • Olive oil
    • Salt
    • Crushed pepper 
    • Butter
    1. Wash, remove the center and main side veins from the leaves. Add olive oil to pan and heat while dicing garlic and red onion. Add Onion and garlic to oil and saute until slightly brown on a low simmer
    2. While cooking garlic and onion boil water and blanch the greens until slightly soft and the water is a soft green.  Drain greens and add to butter, garlic and online mix.
    3. Stir fry  the greens for a moment coating them with the oil. Add a few tablespoons of water.  Add pepper flakes and stir fry in.
    4. Steam well for a moment and then add a generous amount of balsamic vinegar. Lower heat and let simmer for another 10 minutes or so.  If liquid evaporates add more vinegar!
    5. Once the leaves are stir fried and the liquid has evaporated some add butter to the pan and allow it to sizzle

Add salt and pepper and serve hot!

 

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Relocating Plants

It's Spring!!  And, it seems all I want to do is move things around in order to get ready for it!   Its almost like that spring fever some get.  You know where one wants to clean their house and rearrange their furniture.  The room feels so new, so clean.   The garden does the same thing to me.  The only difference being when relocating plants, instead of simply shoving the furniture around and being slightly horrified at the mess found below it, roots have to come up.  That's right the entire plant has to be moved and this for some can be a little scary; it doesn't have to be.

Why would one relocate plants?

I have to admit I relocate plants all the times.  Some of my babies have been moved as many as three times.  Why? The biggest reason is expanding the garden.  Take these lavender plants for example.  They were in the perfect place... last year; sitting right at the boarder of my garden.  However, after once again expanding the space they are no longer perfectly placed and have to be moved.   Other reasons could include realizing the perfect place is not perfect.  The plants are not happy.  They are either experiencing too much, or not enough sun or even water etc.  Regardless of the reason, if your on a journey to relocate your plant babies use these tips to help with the transition.

Choose the right day! 

Choosing the day is the number one thing to consider when relocating plants.  Bottom line never move plants unless you absolutely have to on an extremely hot bright sunny day.  That's right, extreme heat can add horrible stress to the plant as it tries to recover so don't move them in the heat.  The best time to move plants is either on a cool sunny in spring or my favorite an overcast cloudy day with a soft rainy occurring.  Doing this makes all the difference to ones plants.

Maintain as much of the root ball and as possible.

Some roots will be lost however savings as much as one can will ensure a fast transition to the new space.

Add Epsom salt to the new spot. 

We are not the only ones who feel relaxed in an Epsom bath.  Nope its the perfect thing to add to plants.  Just a few teaspoons mixed into the soil is perfect to help them relax through the move.  Visit my article Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!  for more details on Epsom in your garden.

Keep soil the same level as previously found.

Make note how the plant is sitting in its current space.  Dig the new hole large enough to set the plant fully in the ground and fill the soil back to the same plant height.

Water, water, water

Water should be a given; however here are a few things to help the plants establish faster.

  • Fill the entire new hole with water prior to placing the root ball into it, then fill the soil in over the water.  Yes the soil will soak it up. This helps ensure soft moist soil the now weakened roots can push through as they re-establish themselves.  Second, even if its a plant that prefers little water, provide them a bit extra over the next few weeks.  Don't drown them, ensure however the soil stays semi-moist. Again, this allows those wounded roots to easily take ownership and start to regrow.

In a strange way relocating plants successfully does give one that same feeling of walking into a new room.  Especially when completed successfully, so use these tips and move those babies as needed around that wonderful new space.

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Growing Rudbeckia

Did you know the name Rudbeckia means encouragement and motivation?  And if there is anything people may be needing right now it’s encouragement and motivation.  Growing Rudbeckia is a joy; and, I always felt their name fits perfectly.  The meaning of course just explains why one tends to feel so happy when they see them in a yard.  With all of their brilliant yellow they are almost like mini suns, shining in corners and filling up sunny spots. 

About Rudbeckia

There are around  25 different varieties of Rudbeckia; however, their most common name is black-eyed Susan or Becky’s.  Black eyed Susan’s also come in different categories with  petals that range from solid yellow, to slightly burnt orange, to extremely black or dark brown centers that spread out towards bright yellow tips.  I love having all of them all around my yard.

Rudbeckia is similar to Echinacea  in that their roots can be used in some home medicinal remedies.  I hope to look further into this as spring comes closer! If there are plans to use ones Becky’s in medicinal remedies then consider growing several spots around the garden space.  As well as planting them at different intervals.  This ensures as the roots of one plant is being harvested several others are growing in their stead.

Growing Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia can be grown by seed or by division of established plants. Division is simpler as Rudbeckia seeds again, similar to Echinacea, need winters cold to germinate.  If planting by seed sow in the fall when winter is just coming on. Doing this will ensure  enough of a cold spell to germinate well when spring arrives.

Give Becky’s plenty of sun, and well drained soil. Deadhead them to promote more flowers or to stop them from spreading. Otherwise allow the seeds to fall and they will return each season naturally.

image provided by Pinterest

Companion Planting with Rudbeckia

There are so many plants that will grow well with Rudbeckia.  Their flowers for sure bring the bees.  Therefore, just having them in the garden supports any vegetables one grows.  Some of my favorite plants to grow with Rudbeckia are:

  • Zinnias
  • Globe thistle
  • Sedum
  • Perennial hibiscus
  • Echinacea
  • Ornamental grasses
  • Dill
  • Basil
  • Oregano
  • Sunflowers
  • Strawberries
  • Squash

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Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Biting into a bright yellow ear of corn tastes just like summer; fresh, crisp and sweet.   I love sweet corn and can literally eat it like candy from the yard; so much so, I even assume when growing corn at least 30% of the yield will never make it in the house.  It’s a snack I quickly grab while working in the garden, or a quick breakfast if I’m out early.   This alone makes growing corn, sweet corn the perfect summer treat; and, like many others I simply feel growing corn in the backyard, allotment or kitchen garden cool!

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is the taste of summer because it only grows in the summer! 

Corn needs the heat; and, it needs warm soil. Seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches between 55 and 70 degrees in the morning.  Corn absorbs about 30% of its size in water.  Absorbing cold water as its swelling can lead to various diseases reducing yield or killing the plant completely.  Therefore if planning to start outside (which is best as corn has a shallow root system that does not like to be moved), ensure the last frost date has passed.  If one is in a zone where they must start their seeds indoors to achieve the right time for harvest, use organic pots that can be planted in the ground to avoid moving the babies once they have established!

If one has 65 to 90 days, they can grow corn!

According to the University of Arkansas the average days to harvest for corn runs between 65 and 95 days.  One should plan their start time based on their last frost date and how far along the plants need to be to ensure a solid harvest during the summer months.  Visit “When to Start Seeds Indoors” for more information on the best start times for seeds! 

Give corn a well draining spot and make sure the soil has lots of food and nutrients!

Corn needs well drained fertile soil and plenty of food to grow those gloriously sweet ears. Testing the soil lets one know for sure if there are serious issues to address; however,  2 steps work best  for me, to ensure the corn crop is healthy.

    1. Add fresh compost to the soil prior to planting.  Add 1 bag of compost, Black Kow Compost is my preference, to about 20 feet of garden space. A good rule of thumb is: If the ground becomes hard where the compost is mixed in, too much has been added. Compost should enhance the existing soil, not overtake it. 
    2. Mix in organic matter, i.e. used coffee grinds, leaves or dark rich topsoil if the soil is highly sandy.  

Plan to feed plants with feed once they have set at least 3 to four leaves.    Alaskan Fish Emulsion has worked wonders for my production spraying once a

Plant seeds in warm soil and within 12 inches apart

Plant seeds approximately 12 inches apart and approximately 1 ½ inches down.   Soil must be warm in the morning before planting!  Corn is wind pollinated versus bee pollinated.  This implies a few things:  1: don’t plant corn where it will be blocked from wind!  2: There should be enough corn for at least two solid side by side rows.  If only small amounts are being planted, use small squares versus long rows to ensure the corn is close enough together to achieve good pollination across plants. 

Steady water and a good fish based fertilizer does wonders

Corn needs plenty of water; without it they will struggle to produce flavorful kernels.  Water at least 1.5 inch per week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering.  A good rule of thumb is if no moisture in in the soil greater than an inch down, water. 

Companion Plants

Corn is a wonderful companion plant for many veggies; those plants that help corn grow the best are:

  • Climbing beans
  • cucumber
  • marjoram
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • squash
  • sunflowers
  • zucchini

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Growing Potatoes

French fries, waffle fries, crinkly cut fries, curly fries, baked, boiled, steamed or mashed potatoes are a staple of all of our lives.  I mean honestly would hamburgers be the same without the fry? Would gravy be the same without mashed potatoes?  There are so many things we use potatoes for.  According to the CIP at least a billion are consumed worldwide each year. On top of that potatoes are tubers, which makes them one of the easier plants to grow.  So, if you have been considering growing potatoes and it’s spring in your areas, now is the time!  

Interesting facts about the potato

Potatoes are such a large part of our food lives. What IS a potato anyway?  While we are on the topic is a potato really a vegetable?  Here are some super cool facts about this lovely plant!

  • Potatoes are actually tubers making them one of the easier plants to grow in home gardens.  They are a part of the Nightshade family of plants, which of course are known to have some very poisonous relatives! Curious enough, all parts of the potato plant actually are poisonous, EXCEPT the tubers! Which we eat as the glorious potato! 

  • In the 1890’s the US Supreme Court ruled several plants grown for the consumption of their “fruits” could legally be classified as vegetables and therefore taxed as vegetables!  This decision included the mighty potato and many other plants such as the tomato, (which is actually a berry type fruit) watermelons, lettuce, spinach, kale; stems of rhubarb, carrots, onions, garlic, turnips and other tubers like Jerusalem artichokes, etc.!  As a result, the potato is grown as a vegetable, taxed as a vegetable and is therefore legally considered, a vegetable!
  • The term “spud” for potatoes originated from the Medieval words spyd or spad which were tools used at the time as digging tools.  Of course this is the “Spade” and since spades were often used to dig potatoes, potato tubers were eventually called spud

Preparing your potato bed

Are you planning on growing potatoes? Old school farmer almanac followers will tell you, “if your dandelions are blooming your spuds should be shooting!” In other words plant them when you see those yellow flowers!  Potatoes need cooler weather, the soil needs to be 40 to germinate and they grow best in 60 to 70 degree temperatures.  If it’s too cold or wet or too hot they will not grow well.  

Before planting potatoes make sure the space selected will enable them to thrive. Potatoes need loose, well draining, slightly sandy soil with good organic matter. Those that have hard, clay soils or soil that are filled with rock would do best using raised beds or  bag containers which also work well for growing potatoes . 

All of this does not mean Potatoes are hard to grow, only that like many other plants timing and soil is essential to growing them.  For example, I’m in US Zone 7; therefore, my winters can range from too cold at times to perfect and my summers are 100% too hot.  In addition, I tend to have harder soil in places.  I will get the best results growing potatoes as a spring and fall plant and Sweet potatoes, (which want the heat) as a summer plant.  I also add a slightly sandy topsoil that contained some wood mulch in it and mix in Epsum Salt and cow manure from Black kow. 

Once your beds are ready its time to plant! So grab your spot and some soil, get that ready and and lets move on to growing potatoes!

Growing Potatoes

Planting potatoes is the easiest part of the whole process actually. There should  at least be a mention regarding the prep portion of the process for the potatoes themselves.  

First let’s discuss the ever present question, can one just use store bought potatoes?  The easy answer is yes, and I would be lying if I said I never did.  However, it’s not the best way to grow them.  Therefore, if one does use store bought make sure and choose organic.  Why though, why not?  Well the top reason is many have been sprayed and don’t reproduce as well.  Secondly,  one is never sure what kind they are.  We discussed the weather and the temperatures for potatoes to produce etc.  Potatoes in the store are not always clear as far as  their type.  Are they early producers or those that take longer to grow?  Knowing what one is growing,  especially if in a location that does not have long produce them, is paramount to a successful crop.

Prepping one’s potatoes can be as easy as dropping them in a dark location and allowing them to root.  They can also be placed in shallow jars with water and allowed to root.  Potatoes can be planted whole or cut up as long as there are eyes inclusive in the pieces.  If they are sliced up allow them a few days for the skin to harden prior to planting.  

Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep. Allow about 12 inches apart for the largest potato harvest. If limited on space and not as concerned with the size plant them around 6 inches apart.   Plant potatoes with the eyes up and cover them with about 3 to 4 inches of soil.  As they grow mound more soil around them. 

Potatoes like 1 – 2 inches of water per week, and unlike other plants prefer a deep soak in the night hours so that the soil moisture stays with them all day. This is a balancing act however, as too much water will cause your potatoes to either rot or swell.  Therefore, watch watering carefully, leaving enough water to moisten the soil but not to soak it. 

Companion plants

As with any plant there are companions that are best to plant together.  Potatoes do well when grown with:

  • Lettuce
  • Spinach
  • Scallions
  • Raddish

Plants that can enhance the flavor of your potatoes are:

  • Yarrow
  • Chamomile
  • Basil
  • Yarrow
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

According to the Spruce planting Horseradish can help potatoes become more resistant to disease. Flowers like petunias and alyssum can attract beneficial insects and tansy, coriander and catnip can help repel insects like the potato beetle.

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