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Growing Garlic

There are few smells as well-known as garlic!  The aroma itself brings happiness and growing garlic is so much better as the flavor of fresh garlic cannot be beat!

 

Categories of Garlic

Although there are many different kinds of garlic most can be classified in two distinct categories known as Soft Neck and Hard Neck.

Soft neck garlic:

Soft neck garlic has stronger white outer layers of skin that makes them best for long periods of storage.  These are often found in grocery stores or markets. Soft neck garlic does not have the long flowering stems found on hard neck garlic.  This feature makes them better for braiding and they actually grow best in milder winter areas.

Hard neck garlic:  

True to its name, hard neck garlic sends out a long woody flowering stem that generates edible scapes.  Hard neck is also cold weather hardy so it’s best for areas that have stronger winters. In contrast to soft neck, it has a thinner more papery skin that is easier to peel.  However, this thinner skin means that it will not store as long as your soft neck varieties.

Elephant garlic is often listed as its own category; however, it is not. It does fit within either the soft neck or the hard neck varieties yet it is worth a call out as it produces the largest of the bulbs with only 4 to 6 bulbs per garlic head and has the mildest of the flavors.    

Growing Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest plants to grow with very few enemies.  In addition it offers some of the best natural protection making it a great companion plant for a large range of plants.  One can have the best crops by following these simple tips

  • Plan to plant your garlic in the fall.  Allow for approximately 4 to 6 weeks before your first cold spell hits your area.  Garlic be grown in early January; however its best in fall for two reasons: 1: garlic really needs a cold spell to set well and planting in the winter ensures this process.  2:  they need to have strong established roots by spring so that the plant can then focus on a large healthy garlic head.
  • Garlic takes approximately 6 months to fully form. This means once planted in fall they will be in your beds throughout your spring growing period.  As such, choose your location wisely.  Think about the plants you plan to grow in spring knowing you will be planting around them during this time.  
  • Grow garlic in full sun locations.  For heavy heat areas plan for some spots with some shade in the hottest parts of the day.

 

 

  • Separate your bulbs from the head, leave the paper skin on them and plant them within 2 days of separation.  Make sure you select the largest and healthiest bulbs from each garlic head.

 

  • Plant in well-drained soil with good organic matter making sure you have worked the soil so that its soft and pliable for your garlic to grow in. Place a bit of Epsom and bone mill or fish fertilizer in the soil prior to dropping them in!  
  • Dig the holes approximately 2-4 inches deep.  Sites will state to list them 6 inches apart. I have pushed this at times and planted them 3 inches apart.  I would not recommend any closer as you want the bulbs to have plenty of room to grow.
  • If you planted last year, practice rotating your garlic annually this will deter returning pests to your area!

One may be tempted to grow garlic from the stores;  however, I don’t recommend this. You will not know for sure what type you have or how they were grown. Yes,  garlic can seem expensive at first; however, keep in mind you will get a full head of garlic from each bulb planted.  In addition if dried and stored properly one will be able to use their own garlic for continued growth season after season going forward.

Companion Planting

On a personal note I love to scatter garlic throughout my beds. Growing them where I have open spaces or boarders. It offers a natural repellent for  plants and can deter deer and rabbit making it an exceptional companion plant.  Here I have placed it all along the back in the my lettuce and cabbage beds to help detour pests. 

 

 

 

 

Pests deterred by garlic

  • Gnats
  • Spider Mites
  • Aphids
  • Snails
  • Ants

Plants that benefit from garlic

  • Fruit trees
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Beets
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Potatoes
  • Carrots
  • Eggplants
  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli Kohlrabi
  • Roses
  • Geraniums

Do not grow garlic around

  • asparagus
  • peas
  • beans
  • sage
  • parsley or
  • onions (onions and garlic attract the same enemies so it’s best not to plant them together)

Quick Video On Planting Garlic

 

 

 

Accompanying Articles

Knowing When to Harvest Your Garlic

Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

 

 

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Herbal Face Food Plant of the Month: Yarrow

It's time for the Herbal Face Food(HFF) Plant of the Month!  A monthly dedication to the various plants used by HFF to create their amazing skin care products.  This months HFF plant moment is dedicated to the amazing Yarrow. 

Yarrow has become one of my favorite wild herbs. Those who don't have it in their gardens probably are not aware of its medicinal and health benefits. Yarrow provides vitamins A, C potassium, zinc, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and niacin.  Yarrow is also commonly known as  an astringent with anti-inflammatory properties which is one of the main draws  and with all of this its no wonder HFF wants Yarrow in their amazing serums.

About Yarrow

Yarrow originated from Europe and Asia and is now commonly found all around the globe. The scientific name for Yarrow is Achillea millefolium other names include common yarrow (the white wild Yarrow), nosebleed plant or soldier's wound wort.   Several of these names tell us clearly that one of the benefits of Yarrow is blood and wound dressing.   Dr. Nicole Apelian describes Yarrow in her book, The Lost Book of Herbal Remedies as, “nature's tourniquet.” 

Yarrow comes in several colors from white to light pinks and purples to red and yellow.  kidadl.com has a great list of specific types including their colors!   I have read however that common Yarrow, that grows wild with white flowers is the best and strongest for medicinal use.  

Benefits of Yarrow

The benefits of Yarrow are so vast, it truly is an amazing plant for skin.  Here are just a few of the uses:  

    • Yarrow can be used in teas fresh or dried for nausea or stomach flues, hard menstrual cycles or reducing fevers (as it creates sweating).  Women that are pregnant should not drink Yarrow tea.  
    • Powder from dried yarrow can be used to stop bleeding (many sites caution not to use on deep wounds as it will heal it too quickly from the inside). 
    • Fresh yarrow leaves can also be used as a poultice for bleeding and the leaves can be used for stopping nose bleeds. 
    • Yarrow helps reduce swelling in bruises, or sprains or can be used as a antibacterial on scratches or minor cuts. 
    • Yarrow flowers can be used in baths for itchy skin or hives.  
    • The leaves and flowers can be made into a tincture with Alcohol or as an oil in olive oil or carrier oils.  It can even be made into a salve with beeswax and infused yarrow oil.
    • Yarrow can be substituted for hops and barley in beer and and mead.

Continue The Journey: Read more about growing and using this wonderful plant:

Brought to you by Herbal Face Food

The plant of the month series brought to you by  Herbal Face Food.  A company I'm very happy to support.  Each of their products are made with 100% plants! The most powerful plants in the world.   As they say, "HFF is not plant based it's plant powered" bringing together up to 100 different plants depending on the product.  HFF is the only 100% plant based skin care product on the market.  Note: I do make a small commission on  referrals.  As a result I'm able to offer a 20% discount to my readers along with tips on how to grow and use these same wonderful plants in your own home or plot gardens.

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Amazingly Edible Sunflower

 

It's no secret I love Sunflowers.  They’re on my fence, in my yard and make up about 60% of my tepees and arbors!  However, let's talk about the amazingly edible sunflower plant!  And not just seeds, all of the plant from the roots to the stalks to the leaves, petals and the seeds are edible.  The majority of the entire sunflower can be eaten.  It's quite amazing actually that most only know of the seeds; and, is the exact reason for this quick series starting with the leaves of the sunflower plants.    

Let's Talk Sunflower Leaves!

Sunflower leaves are simply a joy to me.  Why?  They are so large, so strong and thick they are like pieces of leather on larger sunflower plants. They are beautiful to look at in a garden adding depth and color, texture and even height.   The giant leaves add shade to plants on hot afternoons, helping to extend the lives of cold crops if grown above them. All of this is enough for one to love them.   Imagine the excitement when discovering they’re also edible!  I won't lie, sunflowers have a bite that's hard to explain; it's an extremely unique bitter flavor. Nutty in a way almost peppery as well.  Lets look at ways to eat them!

Young Shoots

Young sunflower shoots are edible microgreens!  Unlike their older siblings that get bitter with age, the microgreens are super soft, have a thick feel and at this point are actually sweet.  Shoots are often grown in window gardens and used on salads and on sandwiches. Let some of the seeds fall each season and the yard will be so full there will be no issues sacrificing many of the babies to the microgreen category!  

Tender Leaves

Tender leaves, those that are still young on soft stalks can be eaten raw in salads. The entire leaf can be eaten at this stage without removing the veins.  Although, they actually taste slightly more bitter to me at this stage believe it or not, I prefer the mid adult leaves.   One can soften the flavor some by removing the center vein of the leaf. 

Large Adult Leaves

Large adult leaves can be cooked like greens, boiled, sauteed or steamed with salt, garlic and butter.  The older they get the tougher they get and the longer they take to cook. When using the super large leaves, boiling first is best with a water refresh.   I like to harvest the leaves in the mid range size prior to blooming.  Once flowers bloom the leaves naturally start to die down.   

I did say they are like the bitter lettuces, with a bite that leaves you wondering how to describe them. Serving with savory dishes compliments the bite of this beautiful green!  They are also wonderful with mushrooms.  The earthy flavor of mushrooms  complements the greens well and they do great with fatty meats.

Here is a recipe for eating with fatty meats

    • 5 to 6 midsize Sunflower leaves
    • 1 quarter purple onion
    • 3 to 4 (or more if your like me 5) garlic cloves 
    • Balsamic vinegar
    • Olive oil
    • Salt
    • Crushed pepper 
    • Butter
    1. Wash, remove the center and main side veins from the leaves. Add olive oil to pan and heat while dicing garlic and red onion. Add Onion and garlic to oil and saute until slightly brown on a low simmer
    2. While cooking garlic and onion boil water and blanch the greens until slightly soft and the water is a soft green.  Drain greens and add to butter, garlic and online mix.
    3. Stir fry  the greens for a moment coating them with the oil. Add a few tablespoons of water.  Add pepper flakes and stir fry in.
    4. Steam well for a moment and then add a generous amount of balsamic vinegar. Lower heat and let simmer for another 10 minutes or so.  If liquid evaporates add more vinegar!
    5. Once the leaves are stir fried and the liquid has evaporated some add butter to the pan and allow it to sizzle

Add salt and pepper and serve hot!

 

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Relocating Plants

It's Spring!!  And, it seems all I want to do is move things around in order to get ready for it!   Its almost like that spring fever some get.  You know where one wants to clean their house and rearrange their furniture.  The room feels so new, so clean.   The garden does the same thing to me.  The only difference being when relocating plants, instead of simply shoving the furniture around and being slightly horrified at the mess found below it, roots have to come up.  That's right the entire plant has to be moved and this for some can be a little scary; it doesn't have to be.

Why would one relocate plants?

I have to admit I relocate plants all the times.  Some of my babies have been moved as many as three times.  Why? The biggest reason is expanding the garden.  Take these lavender plants for example.  They were in the perfect place... last year; sitting right at the boarder of my garden.  However, after once again expanding the space they are no longer perfectly placed and have to be moved.   Other reasons could include realizing the perfect place is not perfect.  The plants are not happy.  They are either experiencing too much, or not enough sun or even water etc.  Regardless of the reason, if your on a journey to relocate your plant babies use these tips to help with the transition.

Choose the right day! 

Choosing the day is the number one thing to consider when relocating plants.  Bottom line never move plants unless you absolutely have to on an extremely hot bright sunny day.  That's right, extreme heat can add horrible stress to the plant as it tries to recover so don't move them in the heat.  The best time to move plants is either on a cool sunny in spring or my favorite an overcast cloudy day with a soft rainy occurring.  Doing this makes all the difference to ones plants.

Maintain as much of the root ball and as possible.

Some roots will be lost however savings as much as one can will ensure a fast transition to the new space.

Add Epsom salt to the new spot. 

We are not the only ones who feel relaxed in an Epsom bath.  Nope its the perfect thing to add to plants.  Just a few teaspoons mixed into the soil is perfect to help them relax through the move.  Visit my article Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!  for more details on Epsom in your garden.

Keep soil the same level as previously found.

Make note how the plant is sitting in its current space.  Dig the new hole large enough to set the plant fully in the ground and fill the soil back to the same plant height.

Water, water, water

Water should be a given; however here are a few things to help the plants establish faster.

  • Fill the entire new hole with water prior to placing the root ball into it, then fill the soil in over the water.  Yes the soil will soak it up. This helps ensure soft moist soil the now weakened roots can push through as they re-establish themselves.  Second, even if its a plant that prefers little water, provide them a bit extra over the next few weeks.  Don't drown them, ensure however the soil stays semi-moist. Again, this allows those wounded roots to easily take ownership and start to regrow.

In a strange way relocating plants successfully does give one that same feeling of walking into a new room.  Especially when completed successfully, so use these tips and move those babies as needed around that wonderful new space.

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Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Biting into a bright yellow ear of corn tastes just like summer; fresh, crisp and sweet.   I love sweet corn and can literally eat it like candy from the yard; so much so, I even assume when growing corn at least 30% of the yield will never make it in the house.  It’s a snack I quickly grab while working in the garden, or a quick breakfast if I’m out early.   This alone makes growing corn, sweet corn the perfect summer treat; and, like many others I simply feel growing corn in the backyard, allotment or kitchen garden cool!

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is the taste of summer because it only grows in the summer! 

Corn needs the heat; and, it needs warm soil. Seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches between 55 and 70 degrees in the morning.  Corn absorbs about 30% of its size in water.  Absorbing cold water as its swelling can lead to various diseases reducing yield or killing the plant completely.  Therefore if planning to start outside (which is best as corn has a shallow root system that does not like to be moved), ensure the last frost date has passed.  If one is in a zone where they must start their seeds indoors to achieve the right time for harvest, use organic pots that can be planted in the ground to avoid moving the babies once they have established!

If one has 65 to 90 days, they can grow corn!

According to the University of Arkansas the average days to harvest for corn runs between 65 and 95 days.  One should plan their start time based on their last frost date and how far along the plants need to be to ensure a solid harvest during the summer months.  Visit “When to Start Seeds Indoors” for more information on the best start times for seeds! 

Give corn a well draining spot and make sure the soil has lots of food and nutrients!

Corn needs well drained fertile soil and plenty of food to grow those gloriously sweet ears. Testing the soil lets one know for sure if there are serious issues to address; however,  2 steps work best  for me, to ensure the corn crop is healthy.

    1. Add fresh compost to the soil prior to planting.  Add 1 bag of compost, Black Kow Compost is my preference, to about 20 feet of garden space. A good rule of thumb is: If the ground becomes hard where the compost is mixed in, too much has been added. Compost should enhance the existing soil, not overtake it. 
    2. Mix in organic matter, i.e. used coffee grinds, leaves or dark rich topsoil if the soil is highly sandy.  

Plan to feed plants with feed once they have set at least 3 to four leaves.    Alaskan Fish Emulsion has worked wonders for my production spraying once a

Plant seeds in warm soil and within 12 inches apart

Plant seeds approximately 12 inches apart and approximately 1 ½ inches down.   Soil must be warm in the morning before planting!  Corn is wind pollinated versus bee pollinated.  This implies a few things:  1: don’t plant corn where it will be blocked from wind!  2: There should be enough corn for at least two solid side by side rows.  If only small amounts are being planted, use small squares versus long rows to ensure the corn is close enough together to achieve good pollination across plants. 

Steady water and a good fish based fertilizer does wonders

Corn needs plenty of water; without it they will struggle to produce flavorful kernels.  Water at least 1.5 inch per week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering.  A good rule of thumb is if no moisture in in the soil greater than an inch down, water. 

Companion Plants

Corn is a wonderful companion plant for many veggies; those plants that help corn grow the best are:

  • Climbing beans
  • cucumber
  • marjoram
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • squash
  • sunflowers
  • zucchini

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Growing Gourds

My  journey growing gourds started about five years ago with  ornamental gourds. I wanted to grow bottle gourds, also called birdhouse gourds and was primarily interested in them for crafts and such.

 

What I discovered was growing gourds is simply fun.   I have since come to think of gourds as the pringle of the plant world.  You know…  you can’t “grow” just one?  Once one has experienced the total coolness of a gourd vine rambling across their yard  or covering an arbor with giant, odd or gnarly looking “things” hanging down around it, they simply want to see more.

After growing the birdhouse gourd I just had to try a bushel gourd,  (a giant that can grow up to 5 feet across) which led me to the luffa gourd (because who doesn’t want free sponges) and in the coming year I would love to try the canteen, apple or dipper gourd!

What is a Gourd?

Gourds are a part of the cucurbitaceae family which holds some 965 species including the edible varieties, squash and pumpkins; and, the ornamental varieties that are non edible with hard shells. Ornamental gourds are often used for arts and crafts, fancy bowls and spoons etc.

Most plants in this family are vine like.  They also have  a range of white or yellow flowers with both male and female flowers on the same vine.

Growing Ornamental Gourds

Hard shell  ornamental gourds prefer full sun.  They can take the heat!  I have experienced growth in partial shade; however, the largest growth is obtained when grown in full sun.   Gourds are heavy eaters, they produce large fruit so ensure their soil is enriched with compost and organic matter.   (Tip:  Leaves are great for organic matter.  If heavy falling leaves exist around ones garden space,  cover the soil with them in fall and roll them into it in spring!)

  • Preference for gourds is direct sown in spring once all signs of frost has passed and the ground has warmed.
  • Some gourds can take up to 100 days to fully develop and be ready for harvest.   As such, use large starting pods to ensure minimal root damage if starting indoors due to shorter growing seasons.
  • Plan for space.   Most gourds have long heavy vines. They can be allowed to ramble across the ground or grown vertical with arbors or tepees, etc.  Personal preference is to grow vertically.  This enables ease of harvest and identification of pests or fungus etc.
  • Plant seeds  1- 2 inches deep.  If planting in rows plant in groups of 3 – 5 seeds, five feet apart.   Keep the strongest 2-3 plants in each group.
  • If seeding around arbors plant 2 – 4 seeds on each side of the arbor.
  • Keep soil moist during germination and moderately moist as the plants matures.
  • Gourds can successfully be grown in containers.  Two of my favorite container gardeners on Instagram are Cheryl of My Brentwood Garden and The Frenchie Gardener give them a visit for all kinds of container garden tips!

Caring for Gourds

Gourds are relatively simple to care for once they have established.  Their vines grow quick and strong leaving one of the largest challenges their maintenance.   Clip the vines as needed to ensure they don’t crawl into or around other plants.

Gourds are susceptible to the Squash Vine Borer as well as other insects and fungi that target the cucurbitaceae family.  I have had very good luck following these simple feeding steps:

  • Spray gourds semi-monthly with a mix of: fish emulsion  (2 tbs) dish soap (2 tsp) mixed with 1 gallon of water.
  • Monthly:

Companion plants for Gourds

Gourds, like many other plants, thrive when paired with specific plants, also known as companion plants.   Some of the basic companion plants for gourds are:

  • Marigolds
  • Dill
  • Radish
  • Tansy
  • Broccoli
  • Beans
  • Corn

 

 

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Gardening Around the World – Episode 2 – Sharpen Your Spades

Meet Richard Chivers, or as I like to call him Spades, of “Sharpen your Spades” on Instagram.  Spades was one of the first gardeners I followed over a year ago when I first discovered the #gardenersofinstagram family.    He is an avid gardener from Wales, the island of Great Britain, just to the west of England. Over the last year I have watched Spades garden page grow to over 23K followers!  If one takes a moment to meander his page, there is no doubt why he is so popular.   Not only are his photographs beautiful, they are a sea of calm; and the joy Spades has found in gardening is apparent. Join me on this second episode of Gardening Around the World  where I am more than happy to have the chance to interview and share Richards joy, along with a bit of his personal insight into the passion he finds in a garden.

Oma: So Spades, tell us a bit about what drew you to Gardening, when did you start?

Spades: Food actually! I’ve always enjoyed cooking and in 2007, almost by accident, I grew some tomatoes in a pot in the back garden. When I harvested the fruit later that year I was amazed by the taste and quality. It demonstrated to me that away from the supermarket shelves, there are so many varieties of fruit and vegetables available if you grow your own. I became hooked quite quickly.

Oma: Oh you are totally right about that! I wonder how many of us did that same thing? Accidentally realize how good fresh really is I mean. Because, that’s almost exactly what happened to me! My kids at the time were very little and they had spit some cantaloupe seeds in our yard. When they came up I realized what they were and for fun let them grow right there in the grass in the backyard. It was fun and the best cantaloup I ever had; I was hooked! I had grown up watching my great grandparents garden but I wanted to try more! 

Oma: Where is your garden at?  Your yard, an allotment or a local coop?  

Spades: I have an allotment garden a few minutes away from my house. Allotments are (usually) areas of land owned by the local authority that are divided into plots (gardens) for people to rent and grow their own fruit and vegetables. They are fantastic resources and often very generous in size.

Oma: I find it so fascinating that some are so dedicated that they make the time needed to actually go to another place to garden!! Why? Because gardening takes time, and life is busy. To not be able to walk out to my yard and be right there is foreign to me and I find It so wonderful that so many do that.

Oma: Tell us about your journey to get to your space?  How long does it take you? Do you drive or ride a train etc? 

Spades: Luckily my allotment is a 10 minute walk away. If I drive, which I often do when I have plants and tools to take with me, I can be there in 2 minutes. I agree that it’s much more beneficial to have the garden right outside your house; and, I’d love to have that. However,  often in cities, garden space comes at a premium which is why I believe allotments are so important to people and their communities and especially in cities and urban areas.

Oma: This is so true.  I didn’t even know about allotments before I started my Instagram journey and reading up on gardening around the world.  One thing that learning so much about other people who garden has taught me is how blessed all of us are to have spaces to garden especially those that use allotments or coops.  Gardening still takes time!

Oma: How do you make the time to garden;  how have you overcome your challenges in order to be successful with your allotment space?

Spades: I think whatever your circumstances, making time to garden is important. I work full time and I try to ensure I manage the time I get to spend at the allotment as best I possibly can. This means I always have a plan of what I want to achieve at the allotment each visit. I have two mini greenhouses in the garden at home and I grow nearly all of my crops in soil blocks, trays and plastic pots there. This enables me to manage the seedlings close to home and I simply transport them to the allotment when they are ready to be planted out in the ground.  I also try to garden in the most efficient way. Time is precious and I want to make it easy and enjoyable to garden.

One way I’ve done this is through no-dig gardening. I’ve learned a lot from Charles Dowding who is a pioneer in no-dig gardening here in the UK. Not only is No-dig better for the soil and therefore the plants, it saves heaps of time in the autumn and winter months which is traditionally the time gardeners break their backs digging the soil over.

Oma: What is the thing you enjoy most about gardening? Spades: Gosh that’s a hard question.   Oma: Kinda is right??

Spades: It’s more than one thing. Growing food is incredibly rewarding. To nurture a plant from seed to the point that it provides its fruit is a wonderful feeling. It feels worthwhile. Gardening also provides a direct connection with nature and the environment. Something I feel modern society has lost. I know that simply being in the garden is all that I need to relieve stress and to improve my wellbeing.

Oma: Yes, I sometimes wonder what it would be like if we all once again had a Kitchen Garden.  That space right outside our kitchen that held our herbs and spices and vegetables.  From a stress perspective, I think I hear that the most, the stress relief I mean. I used to work in a high impact high stress position.  Hours of upwards of 60-70 a week was an often occurrence.  Being the weekend gardening warrior was sometimes the only thing that kept my sanity!  Gardening is not always easy though.  

Oma: What is the thing you like the least about gardening?  Spades: Not having as much time as I would like to do it!

Oma: Hahaha yes! We could all use more garden time…. Hey…. that sounds like a sign I need to paint??  

Oma: What do you feel is one of the biggest challenges of gardening in your area; and what do you do to overcome this challenge?

Spades:  I live in Wales, which is probably the wettest area in the UK. We get a lot of rain. This clearly has benefits and it’s rare for us to suffer in a dry spell (although the climate emergency has clearly changed that as our recent summers have shown) but it can also be challenging.

I use raised beds and no-dig to ensure the soil I grow in is in the best possible health and structure. The allotments can often flood – especially in winter, but raising beds and not digging or tilling the soil has really made a difference on my plot.

Oma: What is your favorite plant to grow and why?  

Spades: That’s difficult too! I like everything I grow which is why I choose to grow it. In terms of vegetables I might pick Beetroot and Tomatoes. I enjoy them both and the beets are relatively easy to grow and the tomatoes are just an abundance – you can’t beat the flavour of both when they are home grown and fresh.

Oma: There is just something about the tomato right? Seeing those large beautiful red or orange or green babies; there is so much you can do with them. The funny thing Is they are actually not the easiest plants to grow in all areas but people still go for them. Perhaps that adds to the allure, conquering the challenge and all!  Having grown that perfect tomato! 

Oma: Do you want to try and grow something new this next season; if yes what?

Spades: I think it’s important to grow something new each year. Not necessarily a new crop but perhaps a different variety of a crop you enjoy eating. It’s one of the best things about growing your own food, the varieties are incredible. This year will be some new pepper varieties and I try to pick a new pumpkin or winter squash to grow each year too

Oma: I love that, yes!! Variety is one of the reasons I love painting plants so much. Not only are they beautiful, there are so many different kinds of the same plant.  Squash for example, or cabbages or lettuce. I can paint them over and over again and always paint something new.  Which makes your statement so right on; there is always something to grow and still be within the range of what one likes to eat.  

Oma: Who inspires you? If you could meet any gardener you wanted to, who would it be and why?

Spades: I have a few I’d like to meet who have inspired my gardening. I’ve been lucky to meet Charles Dowding twice in the last few years – his books have 

been my number one source for growing vegetables on the allotment. I would love to meet Joy Larkcom who I feel like I know through her fantastic books on the subject and I’d really like to meet Eliot Coleman (New Organic Grower).

Oma: Spades, thank you so much for taking the time to talk to a gardener such as me.  We gardeners learn so much simply being around  or talking to those that love gardening. 

For all of you garden lovers out there give Spades a shout out, tell him Oma says hi and visit his blog  at sharpenyourspades.com  or Instagram: @sharpenyourspades and  Twitter: @spadesharp

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Health Benefit of Tomatoes

This week I started tomato seeds for the spring garden!  I grow them becasuse fresh is best and the health benefit of tomatoes make them even better.  However, I just can’t help that my mind does not think of the benefits whenever I grow tomatoes .  No, it immediately invisions a fresh BLT, (Bacon Lettuce and Tomato sandwich).  I mean, what better health benefit of tomatoes is there then the fact that one can lay a beautiful red slice across a mound of bacon! 

The meatless part of me loves them too. Thoughts of red tomatoes lying on top of fresh lettuce smothered with ranch dressing abound. Or, the way they cook into a sauce that can be lavishly spread across noodles, or bread or mixed into peppers for a bight of tomato heat! 

There is no doubt one of the benefits of tomatoes is their taste and versatility! After all, they are a main source of Umami, that savory flavor that combines “the five basic tastes of sweetness, sourness, bitterness, and saltiness together in one bite!  However, with just a bit of research one will find the health benefit of tomatoes are also numerous. There is so much more to this red, yellow, purple or green beauty than simply their taste! 

About the Tomato

The tomato is actually a fruit! This does make sense as tomatoes are full of juice when sliced open.  However, the Solanum lycopersicum  is most often used as a vegetable.  Tomatoes originated from South and Central America, domesticated and cultivated from the indeginious people of Mexico.

The nutrition factors of tomatoes are quite interesting!  One of the first things that jumps out when researching their benefits is the amount of water one tomato holds! According to an article on healthline.com they actually consist mainly of water! 95% water; and, that is a lot of water in one portion of food!  However, they also contain several nutrients all which help one thrive from a holistic health perspective. 

Top health benefit of tomatoes

   

 

Vitamin C:  One medium tomato could provide as much as 28% of the recommended daily intake of vitamin C.  Like Orange Juice in a red piece of candy!

 

Potassium: I personally feel the benefits of potassium are underrated, it is afterall an electrolyte.  According to Healthline potassium is a mineral  that produces “positively charged ions,” when dissolved in water.  Now, how interesting is that considering 95% of the tomato is in fact water? Potassium dissolves into one’s body acting as, “positive and negative ions” literally conducting electricity as a positive charge helping to regulate fluid, nerve and muscle contractions.  Vitamin K1:  Important to the bodies ability to create blood clotting and healthy bones!

Vitamin B9: Used for tissue growth and cell functions! Lycopene: That special ingredient that actually makes the tomato red, generally the brighter the color red of the tomato the more Lycopene is present and is strongest in the skin of the tomato.  Lycopene is an antioxidant, helpful in keeping the bodies free radical levels in balance and protecting against things like cancer, diabetes, heart disease and Alzheimers. Healthline sighted, “Most red and pink foods contain some lycopene. Tomatoes and foods made with tomatoes are the richest sources of this nutrient.”

Grow Your Own

If one truly wants to appreciate the taste and health of tomatoes one should grow their own.  Many of our foods today are sprayed and grocery store tomatoes are often harvested and transported in their green stage making them immature.  Food companies can be known to use artificial ethylene gas spray on tomatoes to improve their beautiful red coloring during this immature stage.  This process, although good at exposing color, puts a damper on their natural development and hinders the flavor resulting in a more `tasteless” tomato.

Home grown tomatoes give so much flavor to ones recipes. There is afterall a reason us gardeners often say, “it tastes so much better when it’s fresh.”   So, the next time you visit the store and see a package of tomato seeds in a tall isle display, grab some for your home garden! Find the health and flavor of fresh grown tomatoes in your own backyard or allotment garden!

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Tips for Germinating Peppers

Growing peppers can sometimes be a royal pain.  Peppers tend to have some very specific things that need to be done to ensure a clear path to peppery goodness.They can be very sensitive when small and highly subject to root rot if the soil is too moist or too cold. This leads at times to difficult germination.    As such,  here are a few quick tips for germinating peppers!

Use a Heat mat for germination

Peppers, even most of the sweet or bell peppers, need to have at least a 70° to 85° degree soil temperature to germinate.  I stubbornly refused to get one for years.  I do have peppers every year so it’s not a complete loss to go without a mat. However, I struggled with germination on many hot peppers simply because of their strict need for heated soil.  Once a mat was obtained results in the number of plants actually germinating improved right away!  Vivosun has some very good options for mats. They are also terribly simple to use so highly recommend this gem.   

 

Use Peat pods or well draining soil to germinate seeds

Peppers tend to like moist but not wet soil.  This is another area I was a bit stubborn about as I love a soil mix I make myself.  This self made mix was perfect for older mature plants however, it was not the best for germinating peppers.  Using a heavy soil can lead to no germination, or germination followed by struggling plants due to root rot.   Peat pods are simple to find and often come in bags of 50 – 200 or more. I prefer the Jiffy brand!

Keep  seeds in an area that allows for humidity while germinating

Peppers need humidity for germination far more than many other seeds grown in one’s garden.  As such, make sure and utilize a seed starting dome planter or a greenhouse to control humidity.

Move quickly into a larger pot once germinated and place them in good lighting 

Once the seeds have germinated move them off the heat mat, and place them in a larger pot.  One where they can spend at least the next 60 days.  During this mid life,  (where they are not in the ground but still inside) continue to use high draining soil.

 

 

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When to Start Seeds Indoors – Timing is Everything!

“When do I start my seeds?” 

It’s not surprising that this is the question I get the most.  After all, there are so many plants, so many time zones, and so many ways to start a seed.  Many new timers are confused about when to start, how to start or what to start when it comes to seeds for their garden. This is also not surprising as growing plants from seeds is one of the most natural things a gardener can do!  The truth is this a great question! Why? Because, for most time zones there are only so many growing days in the season!  One does not want to use the bulk of that time growing their plant, they want to use the bulk of that time harvesting food.    Starting seeds indoors, helps ensure this can occur as quickly as possible; and, plants are as strong as can be once they are transplanted outside!   

Like several things it often comes down to a few good tips.  For me, after three decades of trying, failing, trying and succeeding, those few quick tips have come down to the three “T’s,” Timing, Tools, and Tending!  This article will focus on Timing and one of the best ways I have found to determine when it’s time to start ones seeds! 

“Is there a Simpler Way”

Beleive it or not knowing when to start your seeds can be quite simple; and, many an issue can be resolved by first gathering three bits of information:

1.  Last Frost Date:  There is usually a spring frost before spring is consistently warm. This last spring frost is known as the “Last Frost Date.” The date in ones area where the last of the cold hits, and the consistent warmth of spring actually starts.   There are multiple places on the web to find out where your last frost date is.  My favorite is the  Farmers Almanac First and Last Frost Dates  calander!   In most cases, this is the date you can consider starting to plant outdoors!

2.  Time to Harvest: Time to harvest is litterally the time it takes a plant to actually produce fruit! The grwoth time before your eating your produce!  The “Time to Harvest” is most often found on the front or back of a seed packet and can range anywhere from 25 days up to a much as 100 days.  

3. Growth Time before Transplanting:  The time one wants their plants to have to grow prior to planting them outside.   A good range is 30% to 50% of the total “Time to Harvest (2).”   The larger percentage of course meaning the plants will be indoors longer.

“Ok so now what?”

So  you know your “Last Frost Date”, your “Time to Harvest” and the “Growth Time before Transplanting” now what? Utilize the “Growth Time before Transplanting” and your “Last Frost Date” to back into the seed start date.   

For example: Hot Peppers can take up to 100 days before the ‘Time to Harvest” is reached.  Targeting 50% of that means the “Growth time before Transplanting” is approximatly 50 days.  Lets look at that example using my zones!

    1. Last Frost Date in My Zone:  April 1 
    2. Time to Harvest for Hot Peppers: 100 Days  
    3. Growth Time Before Planting Outside:  50 Days (50% of Time to Harvest)
    4. Date to start seeds: February 11 
  • Seeds would need to be started by February 11th to allow for a “Growth Time before Transplanting” of at lease 50 days (50% of the “Time to Harvest”)  by the time I reached my “Last Frost Date”!   

There you Go! Now get out there and grow some seeds!

Comming Soon:

How to Grow From Seeds – Tools Are Everything!

 

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