Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers
The Skyscraper Sunflower is just one of the funnest sunflowers to grow! It is SO large, so tall and so bright that I do believe every Bee in the nation can see it! Or at least it seems that way as they all fight for space across its giant Yellow flowers.
About Skyscraper Sunflowers
The Skyscraper sunflower earns its name as it is one of the tallest sunflowers there is to grow! This baby here grew fifteen feet high and was actually slightly taller than the roof of my house! As a result, you can see from the photo above the flower head was a good thirteen inches across. Not only are the flowers beautiful the drying stage and the seeds are beautiful as well.
Skyscrapers also produce the largest sunflower seeds making them the best to eat! Their colors range from bright white with gray stripes to light and dark grays and their seed heads are just amazing to look at!
Tips on Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers
- Skyscrapers grow best in zones 3-9 and need full sun all day long if possible.
- SF Home Gates recommends tilling the soil to around two feet deep in prep for these giants. That may be the best for sure as their root systems are solid. However, I will be honest I did not till more than 10 inches and they still grew well.
- Sunflowers like well-drained soil, no water should be standing as it will cause root rot.
- Sow seeds directly in the ground after all danger of frost. Seeds can take approximately 10 days to germinate.
- Water deeply two times a week rather than short bursts of watering each day. This will help your sunflowers grow deeper root systems preparing them for the heat. You can see more about watering in the article, "Helping Plants Survive the Heat"
- These plants are large so give them room to spread. Plant 2-3 seeds per section approximately 18-24 inches apart. Thin to the strongest plant in the grouping once established.
- Plants should mature in approximately 60-75 days.
- Use fish emulsion once a month on these giants!
Challenges with Skyscrapers Sunflowers
- Aphids love sunflowers! This is actually what makes them such a good companion plant as I swear they will go there before your other plants. Be on the look out for them under their giant leaves and act quickly or they will soon look like this!
- Ants will often congregate around sunflowers you can sprinkle DE at the base of the plants to avoid this.
- Sunflower Months of course are one of the largest predators as they actively seek sunflowers to lay their eggs in. Read about managing sunflower moths in The Article "The Sunflower Moth"
Companion Plants
- Squash
- Beans
- Corn
- Cabbage
- Cucumbers
- Peppers
- Tomatoes
Find Sky Scraper Sunflower Seeds in Oma's Store Front!
Insects – The Sunflower Moth
About the Sunflower Moth
For those that love Sunflowers be on the look out for this pesky insect! It’s a small white sandy colored moth in the genus Homoeosoma. There are two types, the American Sunflower moth (Homoeosoma electellum) and the Eurasian sunflower moth (Homoeosoma nebulella). They show up in May to August time frame (depending on your region) and are most prevalent in the twilight hours, (figures it would be right when we all love to be in the garden) where the female lays their eggs on the sunflower head.
The spawn of this devil will hatch in about a week’s time and burrow themselves down into the the seed head and attempt to eat to their heart’s content with no concern what so ever to your precious plants (how rude!). To make matters worse this pest can also effect your Marigolds and your Echinacea as you can see from the picture below where some of my own were impacted. Signs of damage appears as a rotted area right in the middle of your flowers. If you pull the seed head apart you will most often find the worms, (I’ll add a pic of that).
Tips to Avoid and Treat
Like so many of the insects we deal with in our gardens there are a few natural enemies of the sunflower moth.
- Wasps will attack the larvae as well as eat the eggs of the moth reducing its impact.
- Ground beetles can attack the overwintering pupae and pirate bugs will also feed on them.
- Insecticidal soap as well as dawn dish soap (1 1/2 tsp per quart) mixed with water and sprayed on the plant’s seed head can be used.
- Organic insecticides such as BT and Neem can be used.
- I personally have had good luck using Neem Oil (the 100% organic cold pressed kind that you mix yourself) to detour them. Simply spray the seed heads while spraying the rest of the garden.
- Tilling your soil well for winter as well as again in spring and using nematodes is a good practice. This helps remove any overwintering little critters, (get them while they sleep!)
There are also several synthetic sprays that can be used. However its best for our bees to try the natural methods first as there are so many organic options available to control this pesky insect. If you find them on your plant cut and remove the flowers impacted and do not compost!
Growing Dill
About Dill
Dill looks like a plant that comes right out of a fairy garden! It has an almost magical quality with long green stems that branch out into clusters forming an umbrella of bright yellow flowers adorning wispy blue-green fern like leaves. The flowers also make dill nice to have in your bed as they seed profusely making growing dill so easy guaranteeing its return over and over again.
Dill is a biennial and comes from Mediterranean and southeastern European areas. It is most commonly known for its wonderful culinary uses where every part of the plant, from its stems to the flowers and seeds can be eaten. It is a member of the parsley family, which makes it one of those aromatic plants known as umbellifers. As such, it’s not uncommon to catch the smell when walking through any garden where dill is growing; or, find many pollinators like wasps, bees and butterflies visiting the site.
How to Grow
Dill can be grown in containers or outdoors in natural beds. It can also be grown indoors as long as it has a bright spot with good sun for at least 6 hours a day. However, once a decision has been made on where to place it, don’t move it! Dill has a very large tap-root system that does not like to be moved and would likely not transplant well if attempted.
Dill likes sandy soil or well-drained soil that is around 70 degrees when planting. It will grow taller and stronger in full sun however it does prefer consistent moderate weather that is not either too hot or too cold so plan for some shade if you are in a spot with extremely high heat. Sow seeds broadly a quarter to 1" deep and within 30 days of sprouting thin to about 12" apart.
Tips
- Dill ferns can be cut as soon as they have four branches on them and should be harvested before the flowers bloom for the most optimum flavor.
- If more ferns are preferred plant fern leaf, for more seeds plant mammoth; or, go wild and plant both to ensure a large supply for canning, garnishing, soups and seasoning.
- Dill can grow from three to four feet tall and may need support with stakes so try to plan it in a space that is protected from high winds.
- Harvest dill when the umbel, the flower heard, has turned brown and the stem is still somewhat green.
- Black Swallow tail butterflies love dill; it would be surprising if they did not show up. If you want to avoid having them eat the ferns plant several spots around your space and choose one for them; then, migrate them to that section as they appear and enjoy their beauty.
Companions
Dill grows well with cucumbers (of course!) along with cabbage plants, corn, asparagus, onions lettuce, squash or basil. Dill does not do well with carrots.
Characteristics:
- Height: 24 to 48 inches tall
- Width: 12 to 24 inches
- Zone: 3 to 11; can be grown in summer in zones 3 and 8 and winter in 8-11
- Maturity: harvesting can start around 30-45 days with seeds at 60-90
Associated Content
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