Sometimes this is my favorite place to be. Right here in an empty dying bed. Against a fence line still in PJ’s with coffee and quite. The left over struggling plants at my feet and around me. The gardens not clean it’s not really alive but it is waiting! It’s waiting for me to decide what i want it to become. For the planning yet to happen! How i want it to look and smell and the colors i want it to show.
Impression
How many things in life do we get to mold that completely? Our children are probably the only other thing we have that much power to impress our thoughts upon. Even they however will take their own path. I suppose plants will too at times. You plan one thing and something else comes out of it! But.. like your children when it turns out right the garden is a wonder to behold! That’s what i can do here along this fence when the garden is dead; plan for the wonder. Plan for the beauty and the life an empty garden promises to bring! Find your fence line folks, happy Friday!
So you read the Eight Steps to a Successful New Garden and want a bit more details! Great! This article covers in detail Step One of a New Garden: Location! It also covers each of the sub items one should consider when looking for a good location. So…. let’s get started!
Location, Location, Location!
They say this in real estate and it applies for gardening as well! Wait.. not plants? No. Plants are important and one should have an idea of what their wanting to plant. Several of these steps somewhat work together and one will find themselves at times considering them all! However, the location plants will reside is more important. Not dirt? No. Not dirt location!
In my humble experience location is the number one thing one must consider when starting a new bed. Why? Simply put, how important is ones home to them? The spot one is planting in will be the home to their plants. The location selected for a garden will be where they live and thrive. Just as humans look for a home that “feels” right,” ones garden will 100% define if plants “feel right” growing there. And believe me you want your plants feeling right.
Another reason to consider location first is it forces the advanced thought and planning needed in all future steps. especially planting and landscaping steps. One can modify their space once a location is established, to a point; however, some limitations cannot be modified. As such, when looking at location options, consider these sub items before making a final decision:
A: What is the direction of the sun in relation to the potential location?
The direction of the sun in relation to a garden is paramount. My very first garden was a failure because I did not consider this in the vicinity of my location. What happened? I selected a spot that faced west and then planted shade loving plants! What, they were pretty? They looked so lovely there! Until, they burned from the west sun.
The direction of the sun will not necessarily stop an individual from planting in said location. It can however, define the kinds of plants one can sustain in the area being considered. It may limit ones options and require planning to overcome issues of too much or too little sun.
My space for example would have been fine if I had understood the importance of the sun. Tall plants or objects placed around the shade loving babies I selected could have protected them. Therefore, when considering a location study the sun and make note of the following:
Does the location face North, South, East or West?
Make note of the sun’s intensity (is it full, partial or shade)?
Study how the sun looks in the morning at noon and in the evening and make note of the differences.
Doing this ensures by Steps two and three (Soil and Plants) there has been thought in regards to the sun and its power. It also helps plan for Step 7 Watering!
B: Are structures near the potential location (s)?
Consider in advance what structures surround prospective locations! For example my shade loving plants, where that west sun hit, set against a big brick 1house. I may as well have set them in an oven. West sun hitting hot brick all day long? Oh yeah it was fry time! Look for the following clues to impacts on the sun with your structures:
Does the location being considered sit next to a house, a barn, a shed, a building, a tree, shrubs or taller plants?
In relation to sun (Consideration A) do said structures create shade at certain points of the day, make it hotter or completely blocking the sun?
Structures can be your best friend or your worst enemy. Some structures can enable the perfect balance of sun and shade. Giving morning or afternoon sun and offering protection in high heat or cold wind. They can also completely take the sun away limiting one to only plants that live in the shade. As such, look at the structures around a potential location. Make note of said structures and their potential benefit to plants and use this information in the final location decision.
C: Are you using an existing bed or will you build from scratch?
The final thing to consider is the positive or negative impacts of using an existing bed versus building from scratch.Using an existing space does not always mean your garden efforts will be easier.
On the positive side: a preexisting bed may mean less clean up. Perhaps an easier effort at removing deeply established grass. It could also mean the soil has been rotated at some point, perhaps adding simplicity to revitalization of the area.
On the negative side: a preexisting bed could mean additional work. Perhaps the removal of rocks from a once rock garden. The removal of heavily established shrubs, trees or sedentary objects such as water features arbors or other items to allow for sun etc.
Take time to decide if a new garden or an existing garden would offer more benefits and capture the impacts to the potential location. Capture the data gathered in this analysis stage, write it down and make a preliminary decision!
Here is a quick Video on putting Step 1 to use. The goal is to find a spot that gives the MOST options for planting and to know in advance what limitations one will have.
So you want to start a new garden? Outstanding! I like to say, “planting a garden is the first step to true serenity.” It can also however, be the first step to frustration and anger if one does not plan appropriately. So where do you start; there are so many things to consider when planting a garden? For example: What plants do you want? Do you want flowers or vegetables or trees or all? Are you doing landscaping for your front yard or planting for your backyard? Do you want a personal retreat or a public oasis? Maybe you’re just trying fix that corner that’s been bothering you for years! Regardless, you wish there was a checklist you could look at to guide you through this process. Well… here you go; eight steps to a new garden!
Garden Steps Checklist
Below is a simple checklist that can be used covering 8 steps to a successful new garden space.
1: Location, Location, Location!
Look closely at the location you’re considering. Always ask the following questions when deciding where a new garden location will be:
What is the direction of the sun in relation to the potential location?
Are there Structures Around the area?
Is there an existing garden in the location or will this be a new garden?
2: Soil; the foundation of your new garden!
The health of your soil is as important as the foundation on your home!
Work this item in combination with Step 3 as you may have to consistently modify as you determine the types of plants preferred!
What is the texture of the soil?
What is the drainage of your soil like?
What amendments do you need?
3: What plants work best in the selected location?
If your primary is veggies plan for time to take care of them!
How much time is available for plant maintenance?
Will the plants wanted still work in this spot?
Tie 1 and 2 together! Is there a need to modify original thoughts on the location or soil?
4: Landscape
Based on 3, What design will support the space?
Allowing for proper drainage (Use knowledge from Step 2 for landscaping needs surrounding drainage)
Is there a need to add trees or other tall plants to support primary plants?
There are few pathways to serenity in life more powerful than sunrise in the garden. To wake up with the sun, to see life start to open. The dew on the grass, the sound of the birds even the smell is different in the morning. It's as if everything has that "new car smell." Like the world has been given a second chance with the rising of the sun.
The same can be said at sunset in a garden. Perhaps because the world is preparing for sleep. The sun settles down and the heat begins to dissipate. In contrast to the morning no longer is that new car smell present. It has been replaced with the smell of a loved home, one that has been visited often. Even the birds seem slower. It's as if the garden is telling us regardless of how bad it was in the office, how tough it was with our children or how long that list of "intended" things remains, put it away! Building a garden gives a pathway to that beginning and end; and, a place to witness these moments in private.
George Bernard Shaw said "the best place to seek God is in a garden.. you can dig for him there." Regardless of ones belief, there is never a moment these words hold more truth then when witnessing a sunrise or a sunset. Especially when witnessed from the garden. Life is simply enhanced at this time. Why else would there be so many artists, photographers, architects and even gardeners that plan their work around these two moments, sunrise and sunset? Because there is power in the light!
Many a person have posted on social media "each morning I walk through my garden before I head to the office." A garden provides a direct path to what these two stages in our day really mean. A path enabling one to open their minds to the fact that they must rise, refresh and prepare for what is before them. And than... to put it away.
So in all things in life, find your garden; revel in the moment a garden provides! That moment to catch a sunrise and rest in a sunset. It doesn't matter if it's a single potted plant, a quarter of an acre, a plot of land in an allotment or fields and fields of pastures make it your space! Make the garden yours and meet me there, at sunrise in the garden.
Your walking around the garden looking at the all the beauty and notice this white powder that looks like its floating across your leaves. What is that? Well if you have had lots of rain, lots of humidity or have plants growing in a tight spot then you are more than likely dealing with powdery mildew.
Powdery Mildew showing up on my Gourds!
About Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease that actually has several different strains. Figures it would want to ensure it is available to a wide variation of plants! It is most active in temperatures that range from around 68 to 90 degrees nights being the cooler of the range. This means one will find it more often in their spring and fall beds which is right where my issues are showing up! It’s also more often to show up during heavy rainy periods with high humidity.
Because there are multiple strains you will not always find it spreading; however, if you have like families of plants together watch out. It can take over quickly if not cared for. For example if you plant your Cucurbita together (Squash, Pumpkin etc) what ever strain hits one will quickly spread to the next.
Powdery Mildew on my pumpkins which are growing right next to cucumbers
What is on your Zinnias (another plant that is susceptible) will not effect your roses It will however effect other plants that are members of the same composite family. Powdery Mildew is air born so be careful when removing effected leaves and never place them in your compost.
Easy Tips for Managing Powdery Mildew
The most common recipe is Baking Soda(1 tbsp); Dish-washing soap (2 tsp) and one gallon of water. Spray this on your plants when the sun is low so as not to burn them. Baking soda can also be strong for some plants so test them one day and check them the next before full application. Adjust the tbsp down accordingly to 1/2 tbsp if needed.
Neem Oil, the pure organic cold pressed oil not what is pre-mixed, is also great. Mix 1 tsp in with your baking soda. You can also substitute Neem Oil at 2 tsp in place of baking powder.
Milk has been reported to help stop the growth of powdery mildew. I have not tried this recipe. I plan to test it out this month with the issues I have going on right now. I will update on that result! Mix is 60/40 with milk at 60%.
If you’re a Gardner like me you’re always looking for ways to re-use! One spends so much time and money on their gardens anyway. Why not find ways to utilize the plants they grow, (outside of the obvious food of course)! This was my thought when I started investigating using Sunflower or Okra stalks in my vegetable beds. I mean Sunflowers are just a beautiful addition to any garden and I plant them everywhere!
Skyscrapers along the backMammoth Sunflowers by the ArborSkyscrapers Around the PondCorn and sunflowers
What really grabbed my attention was the size of them. Some of these plants grow so tall and the stalks are so large that it just seemed right to use them in the gardens if possible. As a result, over the last season, I have been testing out both sunflower and okra stalks as tepees and as slat holders in my space. Here are some tips I have learned on reusing these giant plants.
Tips on using Sunflower and Okra Stalks
The stalks of the skyscraper sunflowers can range from three to four inches around at the largest point. Some even get as high as fifteen feet. These can make beautiful natural poles for beans etc. As such, if they are in the right spot you may consider not cutting them at all.
Skyscraper Sunflower sawed for drying
Plant your veining plants at the base of them and allow them to simply crawl their way up.
However, If you need to utilize your stalks in a spot other than where they grew, pull them up and clean them for drying.
Utilize a small saw to cut them at the base of the plant. After removing several of them I found it easier, (at least on the larger plants ) to cut them first and deal with the roots later.
Saw the stalks at the base of the plant
Prepare stalks for drying by removing any leaves, stems, flowers etc remaining on the plants. Do NOT cut the leaves or stems all the way to the stalk! Allow about an inch of length to remain.
Leave about an inch of the stem on your stalks while cleaning
This sounds odd; however, once dry this tip hardens, and provides great handles for string, twine or rope.
Drying is very important. Okra stalks were harder to dry. I lost several to mold while attempting to dry them over the fall and winter season. The weather was too cold and wet. Sunflower stalks dried much faster and easier with less loss. As such if your planning on using Okra it’s best to grow them in the spring and use the summer sun to dry them with.
Find a place that has full sun and keep them off the ground. An arbor can provide the perfect spot!
Sunflower stalks drying on the arbor
Sunflower stalks took about 45 days to fully dry. At that point they were ready for the garden.
For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together. It’s also helpful to dig out the area the tepees will fill prior to tying them up.
Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!
You can find Sunflower and Okra stalks all over my beds. The larger stalks were used for zucchini and Gourds
Zucchini took up lots of space before the stalks.Stalks in place, Zucchini now off the ground!Underestimated the weight of the gourds! Vines were hanging low.Larger Stalks held the weight lifting them above the plants below themOnce more gourd pic because it’s just cool!Smaller stalks make perfect bean or cantaloupe tepees.
Overall I have been very satisfied with the beauty and versatility these wonderful plants add to a garden. Once your flowers are gone, before you throw them out, look around your area and make sure there is not a place their stalks are needed! Here is a quick video to cover a bit of the content on this article!
The Skyscraper Sunflower is just one of the funnest sunflowers to grow!It is SO large, so tall and so bright that I do believe every Bee in the nation can see it! Or at least it seems that way as they all fight for space across its giant Yellow flowers.
About Skyscraper Sunflowers
The Skyscraper sunflower earns its name as it is one of the tallest sunflowers there is to grow! This baby here grew fifteen feet high and was actually slightly taller than the roof of my house! As a result, you can see from the photo above the flower head was a good thirteen inches across. Not only are the flowers beautiful the drying stage and the seeds are beautiful as well.
Skyscrapers also produce the largest sunflower seeds making them the best to eat! Their colors range from bright white with gray stripes to light and dark grays and their seed heads are just amazing to look at!
Tips on Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers
Skyscrapers grow best in zones 3-9 and need full sun all day long if possible.
SF Home Gates recommends tilling the soil to around two feet deep in prep for these giants. That may be the best for sure as their root systems are solid. However, I will be honest I did not till more than 10 inches and they still grew well.
Sunflowers like well-drained soil, no water should be standing as it will cause root rot.
Sow seeds directly in the ground after all danger of frost. Seeds can take approximately 10 days to germinate.
Water deeply two times a week rather than short bursts of watering each day. This will help your sunflowers grow deeper root systems preparing them for the heat. You can see more about watering in the article, "Helping Plants Survive the Heat"
These plants are large so give them room to spread. Plant 2-3 seeds per section approximately 18-24 inches apart. Thin to the strongest plant in the grouping once established.
Plants should mature in approximately 60-75 days.
Use fish emulsion once a month on these giants!
Challenges with Skyscrapers Sunflowers
Aphids love sunflowers! This is actually what makes them such a good companion plant as I swear they will go there before your other plants. Be on the look out for them under their giant leaves and act quickly or they will soon look like this!
Ants will often congregate around sunflowers you can sprinkle DE at the base of the plants to avoid this.
Sunflower Months of course are one of the largest predators as they actively seek sunflowers to lay their eggs in. Read about managing sunflower moths in The Article "The Sunflower Moth"
Companion Plants
Squash
Beans
Corn
Cabbage
Cucumbers
Peppers
Tomatoes
Find Sky Scraper Sunflower Seeds in Oma's Store Front!
Garlic Chives are my favorite herb to grow; and, it's not because of the culinary uses, although those are amazing too. It's singularly because of the beautiful white flowers that sit on long sturdy stems from around July to October. It's no wonder I received so many requests to confirm what these lovely flowers where when posting some of their pictures!
About Garlic Chives
Garlic chives, sometimes called Chinese chives, are a part of the Allium family and are similar to onion chives. You cancertainly see the family resemblance if you look at the grassy leaves and rounded flower tops. However, onion chives have more of a purple flower with rounder hollow chive leaves. Garlic chives on the other hand have dark green flatshiny leaves and brilliantly white flowers.
Tips for Growing Garlic Chives
Garlic chives are perennials that can be grown up to Zone 3 and planted in spring either from their seeds (which there is plenty of) or from separation of their root base.
Although garlic chives are very hardy, they are most week when young. They have very tiny tender leaves that are easy to mistake for grass or weeds if growing in an area that is not established for chives.
60 day old chives
As such, if growing from seed it's best to start them in planters and move them to their permanent home at around 30 days old. Or, be strategic in where you plant them so you recognize them when the seedlings start to grow.
Chives can grow in full sun. By full sun I mean all day in some of the hottest areas, even those crazy southern states. They can also do well in shade, on a patio in a pot or under a tree. They won't however produce as many flowers.
Although chives can take the heat and are drought tolerant they do best (grow the largest with the most flowers) with a moderately moist soil.
Garlic chives flowers give their best show after they have established their roots for a season and improve as they get older! These chives you see here are four years old! They are quite happy with large mounds of chives and many flowers!
Things to Consider When Growing Chives
Managing the Seeds
Garlic chives make a beautiful addition to a boarder or as you see here growing in front of taller plants. Gardeners however, need to be aware of their seeds! Each one of the individual flowers will form a seed pod.
Start of a seed pod on Garlic Chive flowers.
In all honesty the seed stage of the Garlic Chive is quite beautiful. Flowers will stay on the stems for at least thirty days while the seeds form and the flowers dry out. There will be many many seeds and they will propagate themselves where ever they fall. However, what is left behind on the plant is dried pods that make very interesting dried flower arrangements. When going through the seed stage, to avoid issues, one should place their plants where they either do not care where the seeds fall, or simply cut the flowers and take them in to enjoy.
Companion planting with Garlic Chives
Planting garlic chives in your garden adds both beauty and sensibility as they are a natural deterrent for insects! Gardening Know How (one of my favorite sites) even reports they deter black spot on roses and scabs on apples. I actually have them growing under my apple tree! Honestly there are chives growing in multiple places around my yard. In addition as you can see from the short video below the bees absolutely flock to these flowers. so if your planning a fall garden, having garlic chives blooming should be a must in the drive for strong pollination!
Some key plants that benefit particularly well from chives are:
Carrots
Grapes
Roses
Tomatoes
Corn
Okra
Squash
Peppers
It is said to be an issue to grow garlic with peas and onions. I grew my garlic chives within two feet of peas this year and found no issue. This however may be because the garlic chive does not have the traditional bulb that garlic has. Unfortunately, one season does not make a trend as such I will be testing these combinations out some more.
Uses for Garlic Chives
Both the flowers and the chives themselves can be eaten.
Place chives or the flowers in salads.
Use chives for stews or to season meats while cooking them. I love clipping long strands of chives, placing them on the grill and laying the meats on top of them. The smell is amazing!
pull them up and clean them for drying.
For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together. It’s also helpful to dig out the area the tepees will fill prior to tying them up.
The Skyscraper Sunflower is just one of the funnest sunflowers to grow!
sunflowers there is to grow! This baby here grew fifteen feet high and was actually slightly taller than the roof of my house! As a result, you can see from the photo above the flower head was a good thirteen inches across. Not only are the flowers beautiful the drying stage and the seeds are beautiful as well.
You must be logged in to post a comment.