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Growing Garlic

There are few smells as well-known as garlic!  The aroma itself brings happiness and growing garlic is so much better as the flavor of fresh garlic cannot be beat!

 

Categories of Garlic

Although there are many different kinds of garlic most can be classified in two distinct categories known as Soft Neck and Hard Neck.

Soft neck garlic:

Soft neck garlic has stronger white outer layers of skin that makes them best for long periods of storage.  These are often found in grocery stores or markets. Soft neck garlic does not have the long flowering stems found on hard neck garlic.  This feature makes them better for braiding and they actually grow best in milder winter areas.

Hard neck garlic:  

True to its name, hard neck garlic sends out a long woody flowering stem that generates edible scapes.  Hard neck is also cold weather hardy so it’s best for areas that have stronger winters. In contrast to soft neck, it has a thinner more papery skin that is easier to peel.  However, this thinner skin means that it will not store as long as your soft neck varieties.

Elephant garlic is often listed as its own category; however, it is not. It does fit within either the soft neck or the hard neck varieties yet it is worth a call out as it produces the largest of the bulbs with only 4 to 6 bulbs per garlic head and has the mildest of the flavors.    

Growing Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest plants to grow with very few enemies.  In addition it offers some of the best natural protection making it a great companion plant for a large range of plants.  One can have the best crops by following these simple tips

  • Plan to plant your garlic in the fall.  Allow for approximately 4 to 6 weeks before your first cold spell hits your area.  Garlic be grown in early January; however its best in fall for two reasons: 1: garlic really needs a cold spell to set well and planting in the winter ensures this process.  2:  they need to have strong established roots by spring so that the plant can then focus on a large healthy garlic head.
  • Garlic takes approximately 6 months to fully form. This means once planted in fall they will be in your beds throughout your spring growing period.  As such, choose your location wisely.  Think about the plants you plan to grow in spring knowing you will be planting around them during this time.  
  • Grow garlic in full sun locations.  For heavy heat areas plan for some spots with some shade in the hottest parts of the day.

 

 

  • Separate your bulbs from the head, leave the paper skin on them and plant them within 2 days of separation.  Make sure you select the largest and healthiest bulbs from each garlic head.

 

  • Plant in well-drained soil with good organic matter making sure you have worked the soil so that its soft and pliable for your garlic to grow in. Place a bit of Epsom and bone mill or fish fertilizer in the soil prior to dropping them in!  
  • Dig the holes approximately 2-4 inches deep.  Sites will state to list them 6 inches apart. I have pushed this at times and planted them 3 inches apart.  I would not recommend any closer as you want the bulbs to have plenty of room to grow.
  • If you planted last year, practice rotating your garlic annually this will deter returning pests to your area!

One may be tempted to grow garlic from the stores;  however, I don’t recommend this. You will not know for sure what type you have or how they were grown. Yes,  garlic can seem expensive at first; however, keep in mind you will get a full head of garlic from each bulb planted.  In addition if dried and stored properly one will be able to use their own garlic for continued growth season after season going forward.

Companion Planting

On a personal note I love to scatter garlic throughout my beds. Growing them where I have open spaces or boarders. It offers a natural repellent for  plants and can deter deer and rabbit making it an exceptional companion plant.  Here I have placed it all along the back in the my lettuce and cabbage beds to help detour pests. 

 

 

 

 

Pests deterred by garlic

  • Gnats
  • Spider Mites
  • Aphids
  • Snails
  • Ants

Plants that benefit from garlic

  • Fruit trees
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Beets
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Potatoes
  • Carrots
  • Eggplants
  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli Kohlrabi
  • Roses
  • Geraniums

Do not grow garlic around

  • asparagus
  • peas
  • beans
  • sage
  • parsley or
  • onions (onions and garlic attract the same enemies so it’s best not to plant them together)

Quick Video On Planting Garlic

 

 

 

Accompanying Articles

Knowing When to Harvest Your Garlic

Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

 

 

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Growing Spinach

Spinach has rolled itself into the favorite winter plants category in my garden.  When picked fresh it is so good!  Spinach is a cold crop, which means it falls into the family of plants that love the cold weather! This makes growing spinach in my zone 7b garden a must!!

One of my favorite spinach's to grow is Gurneys Seed  Goliath Spinach.   I grow this Spinacia oleracea for its amazingly large buttery leaves that can reach up to 8 inches across while maintaining its sweet tender texture.  Spinach can be a bit picky; so, here are some tips for growing this beautiful vegetable in your backyard, kitchen or plot garden. 

    • Sow seeds in cool weather when the ground is workable. 
    • Spinach is super cold-hearted and loves the cold sun! Find a bright spot! Plan for morning shade and afternoon sun in the winter, In spring find a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade as it extends the growing period into hotter weather.

    • Spinach likes well draining rich composted soil.  They use lot's of food creating their thick vitamin rich leaves.
    • Use a consistent water schedule.  Let the ground get semi-dry between watering. They will for sure cry and wilt if you've waited too long.

    • Mulch your babies with fresh leaves or hay in colder weather to allow for a bit of a blanket if needed.
    • Once seedlings reach around 2 inches tall thin or transplant leaving 6 to 12 inches between each plant.
    • Feed monthly with coffee grinds and Epsom salt.  Use a good organic microbes spray.  My favorites are shared below!
    • Harvest from the outside in. Leave the center of the plant to continue producing more leaves.  Or, cut the entire plant at the base leaving the roots to reproduce as long as possible into spring.

Companion planting with Spinach

Beans and Peas add nitrogen to the soil helping with feeding spinach.  They are also taller plants and are wonderful to use as companions in spring gardens. Planting spinach below these taller plants in spring can extend the life of spinach with shade as heat arrives.

    • Cabbage, kale, Brussels anything in the Brassicas family.
    • Lettuces
    • Radishes can act as sacrificial plants near spinach drawing leaf mining insects to them.
    • Marigolds on a boarder offer pest protection as well.
    • Do NOT grow spinach with plants that need dry soil, they will cancel each other out
    • Do NOT grow spinach near potatoes.  Well, perhaps be wary.  Spinach is a shallow root plant so it can easily be grown with spinach and not impact the potatoes.  Potatoes however have a larger pest issue with flea beetles who also love spinach leaves.  Therefore, planting spinach with potatoes could very well create a flea beetle issue with your spinach. And spinach is all about the leaves.

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Growing Tabasco Peppers

I get simple enjoyment out of growing Tabasco peppers. They remind me of thanksgiving and Christmas all rolled into one.  I know it sounds strange but it's the colors.  They are like little bulbs standing straight and tall in beautiful shades of orange and red.  The happiness they make me feel when I see them in the yard all bright and beautiful against the dying fall garden is just that, pure happiness.  

About Tabasco

Tabasco originates in mexico. They have a heat level that ranges from 30,000 to 50,000 on the heat scale. It's heat compares to the Cayenne pepper and has a hotter burn than the jalapeno pepper.  I love it however, on eggs and in stews and salsa. Tabasco's are tapered and grow about 2 to 3 inches in length and are most famous for the world renowned Tabasco hot sauce.

Growing Tabasco

    • Tabasco takes about 80 to 90 days to grow.  Therefore one should plan to start them indoors if living in a climate with short summer periods. 
    • Start seeds in loose soil set about ½ inch down.  I like using Grow mate Organics Root Max to give them an exceptional start.
    • Tabasco needs warm temperatures from 75 degrees up.
    • Plant in a sunny location with well draining soil and feed them monthly with Epsom salt and Coffee Grinds. I also had great results spraying them monthly with Happy Tree Microbes 
    • Tabasco needs room to branch! Plant to space the plants between 1.5-2 feet apart from each other.
    • Harvest Tabasco when the peppers have turned orange or red.  Be careful though they turn quick! They can hit that red color and within a day or so start to brown out. As such be ready for harvest! Tabasco can be harvested when green or pale yellow and allowed to ripen indoors if needed. Their flavor however is best when harvested at the last minute!
    • Tabasco needs around an inch of water a week, heavier watering during fruiting!  I allow them to dry between watering.  However, if temps reach above 95 degrees and they are fruiting, lean towards a consistent slightly moist soil to help avoid calcium issues. For example,  blossom end rot.

Companion Planting with Tabasco Plants

There is mixed opinion on Tabasco plants in regards to companion planting.  I read years ago from Homeguides SFGates to plant them separate from tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. to avoid soil borne diseases prevalent in these types of plants.  Other sites promote them together.  Personally I have always kept my peppers separate, grown in another spot away from tomatoes and eggplant and practice planting with the following:

    • Zinnias, Basil, Garlic Chives, Marigolds, Lavender and Rosemary.
    • Planting peppers around these flowers supports both plants.  The flowers bring pollinators that help peppers have the best possible fruiting,  In return peppers help protect the flowers from insects that don't like the smell of hot spicy peppers.  

In The Works

    • Tabasco Hot Sauce Recipe !

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Growing Rosemary

There are so many reasons why growing rosemary is essential in a garden, the simplest being that once established, rosemary is an easy to grow, extremely good smelling and edible shrub!  Rosemary can grow up to several feet in height and can be hedged to fill hard to grow spots, tall background borders and rustic areas in gardens.  It’s the perfect sun lover and is listed by the Farmers Almanac  as a perennial in US zones 7 and up.   Throw in all of the edible and medicinal values of rosemary and it’s easy to understand why growing rosemary is an essential herb.

Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening Gloves.

Growing Rosemary from Seed

There are a few ways to start rosemary plants; one can use seeds, cuttings or established plants from a nursery or garden center.   Although rosemary is a super strong, hardy and vigorous plant once established, starting from seed is actually the more difficult way to acquire one’s plants. Therefore, we shall start with seeds first. 

    • It’s recommended to start rosemary seeds indoors or in a greenhouse a good 90 to 120 days before planting outside.  
    • Use small seed starter pots made from coconut husk soil or a good organic potting mix. Moisten the pods or soil mixed planters with water.  
    • Ensure the top layer is moist but not drowning.  Shake the tiny rosemary seeds across the top of the soil surface.  
    • Rosemary is open air germinated so take care to not cover he seeds with soil. Simply press them on the soil gently and spray again with water to moisten the seeds.  A quart water spray mister bottle is perfect for this stage of plant growth. 
    • Place moistened seeds in a warm bright window, greenhouse or lighted tent. Spray or mist with water daily ensuring seeds have a moist spot to germinate.  

Once the babies reach about an inch tall, pot them up. Use large enough pots to ensure the roots are not disturbed and will enable the plants to grow a minimum of 90 days before they are migrated outdoors.

Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening Gloves.

Weather and Soil

When migrating rosemary, consider the following: 

    • Rosemary needs dry hot areas and once established to be left alone! Just come back every now and then for water and a good cut!
    • Rosemary grows best in sandy loam soil. Clay ridden soil will be an issue as it holds water making it conducive to root rot. When faced with clay soil one will need to either modify the soil, move rosemary to another location, or consider them permanently potted.
Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening gloves.

Companion Plants

Companion planting is the process of joining plants in a way that enhances their natural abilities to thrive.  Some of the best plants to grow with rosemary include:

    • Brassicas: Rosemary is a friend to brassica plants as its smell can confuse their predators .  Therefore, always plant rosemary near cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, Brussels, and any other plants in this wonderful family.
    • Other plants that benefit when paired Rosemary include:
      • Lavender, Thyme, Sage, Marigolds, Marjoram, Strawberries, Sunflowers, Rudbeckia

Cautionary plant combinations

Plant groupings one should avoid if possible; or, if necessary plan ahead ways to manage the challenges ensuring both plants thrive.  

        • Mint:  Mint needs shady moist spots; rosemary needs sunny dry spots.  Right off the bat they do not get along.
        • Basil: Basil loves the sun!! Yea! So why not basil and rosemary?  Water of course. Basil loves the sun; yet, needs a consistently moist bed.   Rosemary, yep.. must have dry soil!
        • Other plants with the same conflicts include:Cucumbers, zinnias, tomatoes and any plant that loves moist hot conditions.
        • Squash:  Why? Powdery mildew.  Squash and pumpkins or other plants in the squash family have a tendency for powdery mildew.  Rosemary, although resistant to bugs, is prone to powdery mildew. Planting them together promotes situations where one or the other plants are consistently passing it back and forth.

Next in works on this series

    • Growing rosemary from cuttings

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Growing Serranos

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by www.Vegogarden.com !

Growing Serrano peppers is a joy. These peppers are similar to a Jalapeno with a much longer thinner body and a bit of a hotter taste. Although, I have personally found the Serrano Chili's flavor to be smoother than the jalapeno, making the heat seem much milder. These shiny green peppers are also red or yellow or orange depending on how long they are left on the plant.

Serranos are simply a wonderful pepper for the garden one plant can provide as many as a 100 peppers in a season. They are also extremely easy to grow or pickle and can be used in any recipe where a jalapeno has traditionally been used.

Tips for Growing Serranos!

  • Plant Serrano's after all fear of frost has passed; or, start indoors using a heat pad to ensure soil is warm for germination. 
  • Once planted outdoors use a well drained loamy soil with good organic matter and some compost.  I use a bag of Black Cow Compost mixed in with the soil.
  • Serrano's do best in full sun.  In zones 7 and above it can get upwards of a hundred degrees and Serrano peppers do well even in the heat; so, plant them in a sunny spot.  

  • Water Serrano's once every three to four days very deeply rather than every day. This promotes strong roots that keeps them healthy even in harsh weather.
  • Serrano's grow well with a little bit of used Coffee grinds once a month along with Epsom salt and Fish Emulsion sprayed on their leaves. I prefer Alaska Fish Emulsion .
Sorrano Peppers grown in raised bed www.Vegogarden.com ! Lovely boots by www.WesternChief.com
  • Plan accordingly for space with Serrano's making sure to allow 18 inches in between each plant for the leaves to spread.
  • Plan to cage Serrano's or provide some type of staking as  branches tend to get heavy when producing peppers.

Companion Plants

Sorrano Peppers grown in raised beds by Vego Garden! Haul garden gear in style with Vego Garden bags!

Marigolds, chives, garlic, onions, sunflowers, beans, tomatoes, corn, zinnias all grow well together with Serrano peppers!

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Amazingly Edible Sunflower

 

It's no secret I love Sunflowers.  They’re on my fence, in my yard and make up about 60% of my tepees and arbors!  However, let's talk about the amazingly edible sunflower plant!  And not just seeds, all of the plant from the roots to the stalks to the leaves, petals and the seeds are edible.  The majority of the entire sunflower can be eaten.  It's quite amazing actually that most only know of the seeds; and, is the exact reason for this quick series starting with the leaves of the sunflower plants.    

Let's Talk Sunflower Leaves!

Sunflower leaves are simply a joy to me.  Why?  They are so large, so strong and thick they are like pieces of leather on larger sunflower plants. They are beautiful to look at in a garden adding depth and color, texture and even height.   The giant leaves add shade to plants on hot afternoons, helping to extend the lives of cold crops if grown above them. All of this is enough for one to love them.   Imagine the excitement when discovering they’re also edible!  I won't lie, sunflowers have a bite that's hard to explain; it's an extremely unique bitter flavor. Nutty in a way almost peppery as well.  Lets look at ways to eat them!

Young Shoots

Young sunflower shoots are edible microgreens!  Unlike their older siblings that get bitter with age, the microgreens are super soft, have a thick feel and at this point are actually sweet.  Shoots are often grown in window gardens and used on salads and on sandwiches. Let some of the seeds fall each season and the yard will be so full there will be no issues sacrificing many of the babies to the microgreen category!  

Tender Leaves

Tender leaves, those that are still young on soft stalks can be eaten raw in salads. The entire leaf can be eaten at this stage without removing the veins.  Although, they actually taste slightly more bitter to me at this stage believe it or not, I prefer the mid adult leaves.   One can soften the flavor some by removing the center vein of the leaf. 

Large Adult Leaves

Large adult leaves can be cooked like greens, boiled, sauteed or steamed with salt, garlic and butter.  The older they get the tougher they get and the longer they take to cook. When using the super large leaves, boiling first is best with a water refresh.   I like to harvest the leaves in the mid range size prior to blooming.  Once flowers bloom the leaves naturally start to die down.   

I did say they are like the bitter lettuces, with a bite that leaves you wondering how to describe them. Serving with savory dishes compliments the bite of this beautiful green!  They are also wonderful with mushrooms.  The earthy flavor of mushrooms  complements the greens well and they do great with fatty meats.

Here is a recipe for eating with fatty meats

    • 5 to 6 midsize Sunflower leaves
    • 1 quarter purple onion
    • 3 to 4 (or more if your like me 5) garlic cloves 
    • Balsamic vinegar
    • Olive oil
    • Salt
    • Crushed pepper 
    • Butter
    1. Wash, remove the center and main side veins from the leaves. Add olive oil to pan and heat while dicing garlic and red onion. Add Onion and garlic to oil and saute until slightly brown on a low simmer
    2. While cooking garlic and onion boil water and blanch the greens until slightly soft and the water is a soft green.  Drain greens and add to butter, garlic and online mix.
    3. Stir fry  the greens for a moment coating them with the oil. Add a few tablespoons of water.  Add pepper flakes and stir fry in.
    4. Steam well for a moment and then add a generous amount of balsamic vinegar. Lower heat and let simmer for another 10 minutes or so.  If liquid evaporates add more vinegar!
    5. Once the leaves are stir fried and the liquid has evaporated some add butter to the pan and allow it to sizzle

Add salt and pepper and serve hot!

 

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Growing Rudbeckia

Did you know the name Rudbeckia means encouragement and motivation?  And if there is anything people may be needing right now it’s encouragement and motivation.  Growing Rudbeckia is a joy; and, I always felt their name fits perfectly.  The meaning of course just explains why one tends to feel so happy when they see them in a yard.  With all of their brilliant yellow they are almost like mini suns, shining in corners and filling up sunny spots. 

About Rudbeckia

There are around  25 different varieties of Rudbeckia; however, their most common name is black-eyed Susan or Becky’s.  Black eyed Susan’s also come in different categories with  petals that range from solid yellow, to slightly burnt orange, to extremely black or dark brown centers that spread out towards bright yellow tips.  I love having all of them all around my yard.

Rudbeckia is similar to Echinacea  in that their roots can be used in some home medicinal remedies.  I hope to look further into this as spring comes closer! If there are plans to use ones Becky’s in medicinal remedies then consider growing several spots around the garden space.  As well as planting them at different intervals.  This ensures as the roots of one plant is being harvested several others are growing in their stead.

Growing Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia can be grown by seed or by division of established plants. Division is simpler as Rudbeckia seeds again, similar to Echinacea, need winters cold to germinate.  If planting by seed sow in the fall when winter is just coming on. Doing this will ensure  enough of a cold spell to germinate well when spring arrives.

Give Becky’s plenty of sun, and well drained soil. Deadhead them to promote more flowers or to stop them from spreading. Otherwise allow the seeds to fall and they will return each season naturally.

image provided by Pinterest

Companion Planting with Rudbeckia

There are so many plants that will grow well with Rudbeckia.  Their flowers for sure bring the bees.  Therefore, just having them in the garden supports any vegetables one grows.  Some of my favorite plants to grow with Rudbeckia are:

  • Zinnias
  • Globe thistle
  • Sedum
  • Perennial hibiscus
  • Echinacea
  • Ornamental grasses
  • Dill
  • Basil
  • Oregano
  • Sunflowers
  • Strawberries
  • Squash

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Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Biting into a bright yellow ear of corn tastes just like summer; fresh, crisp and sweet.   I love sweet corn and can literally eat it like candy from the yard; so much so, I even assume when growing corn at least 30% of the yield will never make it in the house.  It’s a snack I quickly grab while working in the garden, or a quick breakfast if I’m out early.   This alone makes growing corn, sweet corn the perfect summer treat; and, like many others I simply feel growing corn in the backyard, allotment or kitchen garden cool!

Growing Corn: Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is the taste of summer because it only grows in the summer! 

Corn needs the heat; and, it needs warm soil. Seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches between 55 and 70 degrees in the morning.  Corn absorbs about 30% of its size in water.  Absorbing cold water as its swelling can lead to various diseases reducing yield or killing the plant completely.  Therefore if planning to start outside (which is best as corn has a shallow root system that does not like to be moved), ensure the last frost date has passed.  If one is in a zone where they must start their seeds indoors to achieve the right time for harvest, use organic pots that can be planted in the ground to avoid moving the babies once they have established!

If one has 65 to 90 days, they can grow corn!

According to the University of Arkansas the average days to harvest for corn runs between 65 and 95 days.  One should plan their start time based on their last frost date and how far along the plants need to be to ensure a solid harvest during the summer months.  Visit “When to Start Seeds Indoors” for more information on the best start times for seeds! 

Give corn a well draining spot and make sure the soil has lots of food and nutrients!

Corn needs well drained fertile soil and plenty of food to grow those gloriously sweet ears. Testing the soil lets one know for sure if there are serious issues to address; however,  2 steps work best  for me, to ensure the corn crop is healthy.

    1. Add fresh compost to the soil prior to planting.  Add 1 bag of compost, Black Kow Compost is my preference, to about 20 feet of garden space. A good rule of thumb is: If the ground becomes hard where the compost is mixed in, too much has been added. Compost should enhance the existing soil, not overtake it. 
    2. Mix in organic matter, i.e. used coffee grinds, leaves or dark rich topsoil if the soil is highly sandy.  

Plan to feed plants with feed once they have set at least 3 to four leaves.    Alaskan Fish Emulsion has worked wonders for my production spraying once a

Plant seeds in warm soil and within 12 inches apart

Plant seeds approximately 12 inches apart and approximately 1 ½ inches down.   Soil must be warm in the morning before planting!  Corn is wind pollinated versus bee pollinated.  This implies a few things:  1: don’t plant corn where it will be blocked from wind!  2: There should be enough corn for at least two solid side by side rows.  If only small amounts are being planted, use small squares versus long rows to ensure the corn is close enough together to achieve good pollination across plants. 

Steady water and a good fish based fertilizer does wonders

Corn needs plenty of water; without it they will struggle to produce flavorful kernels.  Water at least 1.5 inch per week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering.  A good rule of thumb is if no moisture in in the soil greater than an inch down, water. 

Companion Plants

Corn is a wonderful companion plant for many veggies; those plants that help corn grow the best are:

  • Climbing beans
  • cucumber
  • marjoram
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • squash
  • sunflowers
  • zucchini

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Making Cabbage Stew

There are just some foods that one always wants whenever it’s cold outside! There are also some that seem to love a Garden, where whomever is cooking could use most any veggie they may grow.  Cabbage stew is one of those foods!  At least it always has been in our family; and, somehow even though it’s filled with vegetables my children still love it.

What’s in Cabbage Stew?

Cabbage stew is prominently cabbage, which cooks down to an amazing broth  that is simply goodness in a bowl!  One can put almost anything in the pan with it and it taste good.  Which also makes it one of the best ways to use any produce that has grown over the summer, or has been frozen or stored for the winter.  We have made cabbage stew as a straight vegetable soup full of squash, peppers, corn, beans, etc. or added sausages, pork, beef, hamburger, chicken, taco meats, you name it we can simply add it in the pan with the cabbage.  Add cornbread as a side and man it’s just plain good!  Following is the recipe for one of the more packed versions we make.  Go from here and create your own!

Cabbage Stew Ingredients… Oma Style

  • 1 Whole Cabbage
  • 2 Whole Tomatoes Fresh
  • 1/2 Onion
  • 1-2 Green Bell Peppers
  • 1-2 Jalapeno, Serrano, or other type of hot chili pepper (add extra +heat!)
  • 1/2 Squash sliced (yellow summer)
  • 1/2 Zucchini squash (green)
  • 1 – 2 cups green beans
  • 1 cup corn
  • 4-5 cloves fresh garlic
  • 1-2 Cups Pulled Pork
  • Splash of Vinegar (must have add more to increase tartness)
  • Tomato Powder (2-4 tsp)
  • Paprika (cover top of pan)
  • Cumin (cover top of pan)
  • Chili Powder (up to 1 tbs)
  • Kosher Salt (salt to taste)
  • Pepper (to taste)
  • Tabasco Sauce (use it at the table for a great kick add as you want it but man this is good)

Preparation 

  1. Slice cabbage and add to pan
  2. Chop all vegetables and add to pan
  3. Cover with water, add spices
  4. Cook on medium heat for or 3 – 4 hours until cabbage as broken down and veggies are soft.   If using a crock pot or needing to cook from a longer time period place on low setting.
  5. As soup finishes taste regularly and add more seasoning as needed.
  6. Enjoy!

The above assumes the pork has already been cooked and is added as a meat to the stew.  IF raw meats are being used, braise in the pan with garlic, onions and a tbs oil prior to adding ingredients and increase cooking time on lower setting to ensure meats are cooked.

In Closing

What makes cabbage stew so wonderful is its versatility.  We have made this with all the above or just a few ingredients.   Visit me on You tube for a Quick Video on a “left over”version of this wonderful good feel stew!  Then open your fridge and make your own bowl of garden greatness!

 

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