Tag: bees

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Herbal Face Food Plant of the Month: Yarrow

It's time for the Herbal Face Food(HFF) Plant of the Month!  A monthly dedication to the various plants used by HFF to create their amazing skin care products.  This months HFF plant moment is dedicated to the amazing Yarrow. 

Yarrow has become one of my favorite wild herbs. Those who don't have it in their gardens probably are not aware of its medicinal and health benefits. Yarrow provides vitamins A, C potassium, zinc, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and niacin.  Yarrow is also commonly known as  an astringent with anti-inflammatory properties which is one of the main draws  and with all of this its no wonder HFF wants Yarrow in their amazing serums.

About Yarrow

Yarrow originated from Europe and Asia and is now commonly found all around the globe. The scientific name for Yarrow is Achillea millefolium other names include common yarrow (the white wild Yarrow), nosebleed plant or soldier's wound wort.   Several of these names tell us clearly that one of the benefits of Yarrow is blood and wound dressing.   Dr. Nicole Apelian describes Yarrow in her book, The Lost Book of Herbal Remedies as, “nature's tourniquet.” 

Yarrow comes in several colors from white to light pinks and purples to red and yellow.  kidadl.com has a great list of specific types including their colors!   I have read however that common Yarrow, that grows wild with white flowers is the best and strongest for medicinal use.  

Benefits of Yarrow

The benefits of Yarrow are so vast, it truly is an amazing plant for skin.  Here are just a few of the uses:  

    • Yarrow can be used in teas fresh or dried for nausea or stomach flues, hard menstrual cycles or reducing fevers (as it creates sweating).  Women that are pregnant should not drink Yarrow tea.  
    • Powder from dried yarrow can be used to stop bleeding (many sites caution not to use on deep wounds as it will heal it too quickly from the inside). 
    • Fresh yarrow leaves can also be used as a poultice for bleeding and the leaves can be used for stopping nose bleeds. 
    • Yarrow helps reduce swelling in bruises, or sprains or can be used as a antibacterial on scratches or minor cuts. 
    • Yarrow flowers can be used in baths for itchy skin or hives.  
    • The leaves and flowers can be made into a tincture with Alcohol or as an oil in olive oil or carrier oils.  It can even be made into a salve with beeswax and infused yarrow oil.
    • Yarrow can be substituted for hops and barley in beer and and mead.

Continue The Journey: Read more about growing and using this wonderful plant:

Brought to you by Herbal Face Food

The plant of the month series brought to you by  Herbal Face Food.  A company I'm very happy to support.  Each of their products are made with 100% plants! The most powerful plants in the world.   As they say, "HFF is not plant based it's plant powered" bringing together up to 100 different plants depending on the product.  HFF is the only 100% plant based skin care product on the market.  Note: I do make a small commission on  referrals.  As a result I'm able to offer a 20% discount to my readers along with tips on how to grow and use these same wonderful plants in your own home or plot gardens.

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Growing Rosemary

There are so many reasons why growing rosemary is essential in a garden, the simplest being that once established, rosemary is an easy to grow, extremely good smelling and edible shrub!  Rosemary can grow up to several feet in height and can be hedged to fill hard to grow spots, tall background borders and rustic areas in gardens.  It’s the perfect sun lover and is listed by the Farmers Almanac  as a perennial in US zones 7 and up.   Throw in all of the edible and medicinal values of rosemary and it’s easy to understand why growing rosemary is an essential herb.

Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening Gloves.

Growing Rosemary from Seed

There are a few ways to start rosemary plants; one can use seeds, cuttings or established plants from a nursery or garden center.   Although rosemary is a super strong, hardy and vigorous plant once established, starting from seed is actually the more difficult way to acquire one’s plants. Therefore, we shall start with seeds first. 

    • It’s recommended to start rosemary seeds indoors or in a greenhouse a good 90 to 120 days before planting outside.  
    • Use small seed starter pots made from coconut husk soil or a good organic potting mix. Moisten the pods or soil mixed planters with water.  
    • Ensure the top layer is moist but not drowning.  Shake the tiny rosemary seeds across the top of the soil surface.  
    • Rosemary is open air germinated so take care to not cover he seeds with soil. Simply press them on the soil gently and spray again with water to moisten the seeds.  A quart water spray mister bottle is perfect for this stage of plant growth. 
    • Place moistened seeds in a warm bright window, greenhouse or lighted tent. Spray or mist with water daily ensuring seeds have a moist spot to germinate.  

Once the babies reach about an inch tall, pot them up. Use large enough pots to ensure the roots are not disturbed and will enable the plants to grow a minimum of 90 days before they are migrated outdoors.

Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening Gloves.

Weather and Soil

When migrating rosemary, consider the following: 

    • Rosemary needs dry hot areas and once established to be left alone! Just come back every now and then for water and a good cut!
    • Rosemary grows best in sandy loam soil. Clay ridden soil will be an issue as it holds water making it conducive to root rot. When faced with clay soil one will need to either modify the soil, move rosemary to another location, or consider them permanently potted.
Harvesting Rosemary. Boots by Western Chief, Gloves by Digzy Gardening gloves.

Companion Plants

Companion planting is the process of joining plants in a way that enhances their natural abilities to thrive.  Some of the best plants to grow with rosemary include:

    • Brassicas: Rosemary is a friend to brassica plants as its smell can confuse their predators .  Therefore, always plant rosemary near cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, Brussels, and any other plants in this wonderful family.
    • Other plants that benefit when paired Rosemary include:
      • Lavender, Thyme, Sage, Marigolds, Marjoram, Strawberries, Sunflowers, Rudbeckia

Cautionary plant combinations

Plant groupings one should avoid if possible; or, if necessary plan ahead ways to manage the challenges ensuring both plants thrive.  

        • Mint:  Mint needs shady moist spots; rosemary needs sunny dry spots.  Right off the bat they do not get along.
        • Basil: Basil loves the sun!! Yea! So why not basil and rosemary?  Water of course. Basil loves the sun; yet, needs a consistently moist bed.   Rosemary, yep.. must have dry soil!
        • Other plants with the same conflicts include:Cucumbers, zinnias, tomatoes and any plant that loves moist hot conditions.
        • Squash:  Why? Powdery mildew.  Squash and pumpkins or other plants in the squash family have a tendency for powdery mildew.  Rosemary, although resistant to bugs, is prone to powdery mildew. Planting them together promotes situations where one or the other plants are consistently passing it back and forth.

Next in works on this series

    • Growing rosemary from cuttings

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Amazingly Edible Sunflower

 

It's no secret I love Sunflowers.  They’re on my fence, in my yard and make up about 60% of my tepees and arbors!  However, let's talk about the amazingly edible sunflower plant!  And not just seeds, all of the plant from the roots to the stalks to the leaves, petals and the seeds are edible.  The majority of the entire sunflower can be eaten.  It's quite amazing actually that most only know of the seeds; and, is the exact reason for this quick series starting with the leaves of the sunflower plants.    

Let's Talk Sunflower Leaves!

Sunflower leaves are simply a joy to me.  Why?  They are so large, so strong and thick they are like pieces of leather on larger sunflower plants. They are beautiful to look at in a garden adding depth and color, texture and even height.   The giant leaves add shade to plants on hot afternoons, helping to extend the lives of cold crops if grown above them. All of this is enough for one to love them.   Imagine the excitement when discovering they’re also edible!  I won't lie, sunflowers have a bite that's hard to explain; it's an extremely unique bitter flavor. Nutty in a way almost peppery as well.  Lets look at ways to eat them!

Young Shoots

Young sunflower shoots are edible microgreens!  Unlike their older siblings that get bitter with age, the microgreens are super soft, have a thick feel and at this point are actually sweet.  Shoots are often grown in window gardens and used on salads and on sandwiches. Let some of the seeds fall each season and the yard will be so full there will be no issues sacrificing many of the babies to the microgreen category!  

Tender Leaves

Tender leaves, those that are still young on soft stalks can be eaten raw in salads. The entire leaf can be eaten at this stage without removing the veins.  Although, they actually taste slightly more bitter to me at this stage believe it or not, I prefer the mid adult leaves.   One can soften the flavor some by removing the center vein of the leaf. 

Large Adult Leaves

Large adult leaves can be cooked like greens, boiled, sauteed or steamed with salt, garlic and butter.  The older they get the tougher they get and the longer they take to cook. When using the super large leaves, boiling first is best with a water refresh.   I like to harvest the leaves in the mid range size prior to blooming.  Once flowers bloom the leaves naturally start to die down.   

I did say they are like the bitter lettuces, with a bite that leaves you wondering how to describe them. Serving with savory dishes compliments the bite of this beautiful green!  They are also wonderful with mushrooms.  The earthy flavor of mushrooms  complements the greens well and they do great with fatty meats.

Here is a recipe for eating with fatty meats

    • 5 to 6 midsize Sunflower leaves
    • 1 quarter purple onion
    • 3 to 4 (or more if your like me 5) garlic cloves 
    • Balsamic vinegar
    • Olive oil
    • Salt
    • Crushed pepper 
    • Butter
    1. Wash, remove the center and main side veins from the leaves. Add olive oil to pan and heat while dicing garlic and red onion. Add Onion and garlic to oil and saute until slightly brown on a low simmer
    2. While cooking garlic and onion boil water and blanch the greens until slightly soft and the water is a soft green.  Drain greens and add to butter, garlic and online mix.
    3. Stir fry  the greens for a moment coating them with the oil. Add a few tablespoons of water.  Add pepper flakes and stir fry in.
    4. Steam well for a moment and then add a generous amount of balsamic vinegar. Lower heat and let simmer for another 10 minutes or so.  If liquid evaporates add more vinegar!
    5. Once the leaves are stir fried and the liquid has evaporated some add butter to the pan and allow it to sizzle

Add salt and pepper and serve hot!

 

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Dandelions

Why do so many people hate them? The dandelion I mean not the garden boots and clogs. They're  from Western Chief  and I have to believe all would agree they are pretty awesome. The dandelion however, is so dreaded by so many. One can find many a gentlemen in a fit if these little guys show up in their lawn.

Personally, one of my favorite sayings is, “I have a beautiful yard, yet, it's not a lawn.”  Lawn weed killer of any kind will not be used in these back gardens. That means dandelions and many other unwanted plants full of goodness are finding their way into this space.  The dandelion has become one of the favorites! It's hard to  believe that we as a people work so hard annually to destroy something 100% free, 100% edible and so good for our health.

Why Would one Want Dandelions?

    • Dandelions are perennials, they return every single year with no help from humans at all. Not only that, in many places they are some of the first flowers one will see. That means they bring the bees! These babies are like a light to the little pollinators of the world shining brightly and saying, “here, come here to my yard spring has arrived!” And come they will!
    • The entire Dandelion is edible. From the flowers, (which are super sweet actually no wonder the bees like them) to the stems and the roots. I have grown to love grazing on dandelion flowers. Since I know the yard is poison free they can be eaten just as any other plant grown in this space.
    • The flowers go in almost all salads and the young greens with them. Which by the way are one of the bitters; and, bitters do wonders for our gut. They can be used to make wine or when unopened pickled like capers
    • The roots are large and long (which is why they are so strong) and can be used dried or roasted for anything from coffee to medicine.

Medicinal Uses for Dandelions

The entire plant can actually be used for medicine! Dr. Nicole Apelian has some of the best details in "The Lost Book of Herbal Remedies."  Here are just a few things they can be used for.

    • Roots can be used as a tea to help with Liver, Digestion and gallbladder functions.
    • Fresh Dandelion juice can be used on ones skin to heal wounds and even treat ringworm or warts.
    • Dandelions can help with bladder infections, Iron deficiency and enhance milk production .
    • They include antioxidants that reduce inflammation helping to fight inflammation associated with arthritis.

When to Harvest Dandelions

Dandelions flower in early spring.  This is around April to June in the states and the UK; start harvesting the flowers and flower buds as soon as one sees them! If using the leaves for flowers grab the small ones as they grow more bitter with age.  Save harvesting roots until the plant is around 2 to 3 years old. This way they offer a larger harvest for teas and medicines. The roots here are right at 2 years old. I only harvested a few and decided to wait one more season to gather the big stuff!

Dandelion Tea

Dandelion tea is one of the easiest ways to reap the benefits of dandelions. Here is a quick easy recipe from Dr. Alpine:

    • ½ to 2tsp of dandelion root cut into small pieces
    • 1 cup boiling water
    • Allow roots to steep for 20 minutes
    • Strain and drink up to 3 cups per day for medicinal use.

Dr. Apelian recommends “no sweeteners as they reduce the effectiveness of the root's medicinal properties… add milk to taste if wanted”

Allergies?

Although not frequent people that are allergic to yarrow, marigolds, daisies or other plants in this family may also be allergic to Dandelions.  Pregnant women should also avoid them without doctors consultation.

The more one reads about the dandelion the more they realize it is a misunderstood plant, and could very well be one of the best gifts God has given us in the world of wild plants. So the next time you pass a Dandelion, don't be so quick to judge this little guy, and take a moment to realize how much awesomeness can be found in this single weed.

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Growing Rudbeckia

Did you know the name Rudbeckia means encouragement and motivation?  And if there is anything people may be needing right now it’s encouragement and motivation.  Growing Rudbeckia is a joy; and, I always felt their name fits perfectly.  The meaning of course just explains why one tends to feel so happy when they see them in a yard.  With all of their brilliant yellow they are almost like mini suns, shining in corners and filling up sunny spots. 

About Rudbeckia

There are around  25 different varieties of Rudbeckia; however, their most common name is black-eyed Susan or Becky’s.  Black eyed Susan’s also come in different categories with  petals that range from solid yellow, to slightly burnt orange, to extremely black or dark brown centers that spread out towards bright yellow tips.  I love having all of them all around my yard.

Rudbeckia is similar to Echinacea  in that their roots can be used in some home medicinal remedies.  I hope to look further into this as spring comes closer! If there are plans to use ones Becky’s in medicinal remedies then consider growing several spots around the garden space.  As well as planting them at different intervals.  This ensures as the roots of one plant is being harvested several others are growing in their stead.

Growing Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia can be grown by seed or by division of established plants. Division is simpler as Rudbeckia seeds again, similar to Echinacea, need winters cold to germinate.  If planting by seed sow in the fall when winter is just coming on. Doing this will ensure  enough of a cold spell to germinate well when spring arrives.

Give Becky’s plenty of sun, and well drained soil. Deadhead them to promote more flowers or to stop them from spreading. Otherwise allow the seeds to fall and they will return each season naturally.

image provided by Pinterest

Companion Planting with Rudbeckia

There are so many plants that will grow well with Rudbeckia.  Their flowers for sure bring the bees.  Therefore, just having them in the garden supports any vegetables one grows.  Some of my favorite plants to grow with Rudbeckia are:

  • Zinnias
  • Globe thistle
  • Sedum
  • Perennial hibiscus
  • Echinacea
  • Ornamental grasses
  • Dill
  • Basil
  • Oregano
  • Sunflowers
  • Strawberries
  • Squash

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Growing Gourds

My  journey growing gourds started about five years ago with  ornamental gourds. I wanted to grow bottle gourds, also called birdhouse gourds and was primarily interested in them for crafts and such.

 

What I discovered was growing gourds is simply fun.   I have since come to think of gourds as the pringle of the plant world.  You know…  you can’t “grow” just one?  Once one has experienced the total coolness of a gourd vine rambling across their yard  or covering an arbor with giant, odd or gnarly looking “things” hanging down around it, they simply want to see more.

After growing the birdhouse gourd I just had to try a bushel gourd,  (a giant that can grow up to 5 feet across) which led me to the luffa gourd (because who doesn’t want free sponges) and in the coming year I would love to try the canteen, apple or dipper gourd!

What is a Gourd?

Gourds are a part of the cucurbitaceae family which holds some 965 species including the edible varieties, squash and pumpkins; and, the ornamental varieties that are non edible with hard shells. Ornamental gourds are often used for arts and crafts, fancy bowls and spoons etc.

Most plants in this family are vine like.  They also have  a range of white or yellow flowers with both male and female flowers on the same vine.

Growing Ornamental Gourds

Hard shell  ornamental gourds prefer full sun.  They can take the heat!  I have experienced growth in partial shade; however, the largest growth is obtained when grown in full sun.   Gourds are heavy eaters, they produce large fruit so ensure their soil is enriched with compost and organic matter.   (Tip:  Leaves are great for organic matter.  If heavy falling leaves exist around ones garden space,  cover the soil with them in fall and roll them into it in spring!)

  • Preference for gourds is direct sown in spring once all signs of frost has passed and the ground has warmed.
  • Some gourds can take up to 100 days to fully develop and be ready for harvest.   As such, use large starting pods to ensure minimal root damage if starting indoors due to shorter growing seasons.
  • Plan for space.   Most gourds have long heavy vines. They can be allowed to ramble across the ground or grown vertical with arbors or tepees, etc.  Personal preference is to grow vertically.  This enables ease of harvest and identification of pests or fungus etc.
  • Plant seeds  1- 2 inches deep.  If planting in rows plant in groups of 3 – 5 seeds, five feet apart.   Keep the strongest 2-3 plants in each group.
  • If seeding around arbors plant 2 – 4 seeds on each side of the arbor.
  • Keep soil moist during germination and moderately moist as the plants matures.
  • Gourds can successfully be grown in containers.  Two of my favorite container gardeners on Instagram are Cheryl of My Brentwood Garden and The Frenchie Gardener give them a visit for all kinds of container garden tips!

Caring for Gourds

Gourds are relatively simple to care for once they have established.  Their vines grow quick and strong leaving one of the largest challenges their maintenance.   Clip the vines as needed to ensure they don’t crawl into or around other plants.

Gourds are susceptible to the Squash Vine Borer as well as other insects and fungi that target the cucurbitaceae family.  I have had very good luck following these simple feeding steps:

  • Spray gourds semi-monthly with a mix of: fish emulsion  (2 tbs) dish soap (2 tsp) mixed with 1 gallon of water.
  • Monthly:

Companion plants for Gourds

Gourds, like many other plants, thrive when paired with specific plants, also known as companion plants.   Some of the basic companion plants for gourds are:

  • Marigolds
  • Dill
  • Radish
  • Tansy
  • Broccoli
  • Beans
  • Corn

 

 

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Milk and Wine Crinum Lily

The Crinum Lilly is just a classic beauty! It’s long showy leaves and large  heavily scented flowers of milky white and wine make it one of my favorite bulbs.   It bottom line is next to impossible to kill.  It is also one of the few flowers that can do as well in a partially shaded area or a full sunny spot.  And even better, the Milk and Wine Lily is the first to bloom each summer and continues to bloom almost all season long.

Growing Crinum Lilies

The giant Crinum Lily is a member of the Amaryllis family and best grown in zones  6 and up as a perennial.  Its bulbs can get very large and they don’t like to be moved.  Not that one can’t move them.  That is actually one of the reasons the Crinum Lilly runs a bit higher in price than most bulbs. The large main bulb will form many smaller bulbs around their giant center giving the owner plenty of plants for moving around their yard if one wants to do so.   However,  once the Crinum has a home it loves, it will for sure grab hold and want to stay making it one of the tougher bulbs to pull up.

Tips 

  • Plant your Lily in the spring with the Bulb right below the surface.  It will dig down as it grows.
  • Keep the soil moderately moist until it is established. Once established it will take most weather.  I personally water my established bulbs only once a week even in extremely hot temperatures

  • The Milk and Wine Lily will produce long tall stems that hold up to a dozen flowers each.  The weight of one stem gets heavier as the flowers bloom lending at times to the need for staking.
  • Purchase a few of the 24 – 36 inch plant stakes with the loop at the top.   Then, place about 5 of them in the ground around the greenery and just leave them there.  As the stems start to appear just grab one, loop the stem through it and walk off.  Easy peasy!
  • Scotts offers a package of 24 Scott 36″ plant props for around 30 bucks.  I purchased a pack three years ago and have not purchased any since then.  I just move them from plant to plant as I need them.
  • Crinum Lily’s can get very large as they mature. As a result, their greenery or their flowers can sometimes look shabby.  An easy way to take care of the greenery is simply to trim it back.  They clip easily with shears almost like a shrub making the leaves very tidy and nice looking with the tall flowers sitting atop them.
  • To maintain beauty on the flowers snap the wilting flower off the head as they wilt leaving only the remaining fresh flowers on the stem.  This is simple to do as one is walking by the plant.
  • There is nothing like the smell of the Milk and Wine Crinum Lily.  Its fragrance will fill an area.  As such, place it in a spot by a window or patio  so on those hot summer days that fragrance can be enjoyed with company and a glass of lemon aid, wine or a cold beer.

The Milk and Wine Crinum Lily’s beauty,  whimsical leaves, bright flowers and lovely fragrance will make one feel as if they stepped onto an old southern homestead.  In addition, their greenery offers a nice texture to areas around houses or in corners even when flowers are not yet in bloom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Growing Tomatillos

When one mentions tomatillos to me  the first thing I think of is green salsa! Spicy green salsa at that or slightly brownish orange salsa!  The color that’s created when one mixes tomatillos with their cousin the red tomato. The second thing that comes to mind is the signature lantern or balloon like husks they grown in.  This is one characteristic that is so unique to the tomatillo and also makes them such an interesting plant to grow in your garden.

About Tomatillos

Tomatillos are native to Central America. According to Bonnie Plants they can be found growing wild in fields along with corn and beans.  This is not surprising actually because if you have ever grown them they tend to act like a wild plant.  Meaning they attempt to sprawl everywhere. They also grow very tall reaching heights of five feet or more and at least four or more feet wide. As such if your planning to grow tomatillos plan for space as they take lots of room!

 

Growing Tomatillos

Tomatillos can be grown with similar conditions as tomatoes. However, Unlike tomatoes who can be very finicky and sometimes hard to grow, the tomatillo, if grown correctly will produce abundantly allowing for many of the amazing Mexican food dishes we all love and plenty of canning. There are a few things to keep in mind when growing these green babies:

  • You can’t grow just one!  And that is a literal statement! One of the more interesting requirements for tomatillos is they must cross pollinate. As a result one must always grow a minimum of two. I personally prefer four to six in my beds.
  • Plan for their size! Tomatillos are big plants! They have long arms that will fill with husks and get heavier as the fruit matures. They require sturdy cages.
  • Full sun with shade! Tomatillos can take the heat fairly well for tomatoes; however like their cousins they flower and produce the most fruit in 80-90 degree weather. As such, plant them in an area where they can obtain some shade in the hottest parts of the day during high heat.
  • Keep them healthy in the hot summer months and you will have fruit both spring and fall.
  • Tomatillos require heavy pollination and as mentioned before cross pollination. As such plant them with other flowers that will be sure to draw the bees!

Planting

  • Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before the last frost unless you are in a zone that allows for warm nights.  
  • I prefer to plant in sets of two with about 6 inches between them and a minimum of three sets. Space sets at least 4 feet apart.   This works with one plant as well just space them apart the same as a set.
  • Tomatillos like well-drained rich soil and full sun.  
  • Harvest your tomatillos when the husks are well filled and the fruit is a bright green.  
  • If the fruit starts to turn a lighter yellow they are at risk of becoming overripe!

 

Companion Plants

  • Basil (let some bloom!)
  • Parsley
  • Marigolds
  • Daisy’s
  • Zinnias
  • Onions
  • Garlic
  • Carrots
  • Artichokes

Plants that should not be grown with tomatillos due to cross pest action

  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Potatoes
  • Eggplants

 

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Using Sunflower Stalks in Your Garden!

If you’re a Gardner like me you’re always looking for ways to re-use!   One spends so much time and money on their gardens anyway.  Why not find ways to utilize the plants they grow, (outside of the obvious food of course)!  This was my thought when I started investigating using Sunflower or Okra stalks in my vegetable beds.   I mean Sunflowers are just a beautiful addition to any garden and I plant them everywhere!
Skyscrapers along the back
Mammoth Sunflowers by the Arbor
Skyscrapers Around the Pond
Corn and sunflowers

What really grabbed my attention was the size of them.   Some of these plants grow so tall and the stalks are so large that it just seemed right to use them in the gardens if possible.  As a result, over the last season, I have been testing out both sunflower and okra stalks as tepees and as slat holders in my space.  Here are some tips I have learned on reusing these giant plants.

Tips on using Sunflower and Okra Stalks

  • The stalks of the skyscraper sunflowers can range from three to four inches around at the largest point.  Some even get as high as fifteen feet.  These can make beautiful natural poles for beans etc. As such, if they are in the right spot you may consider not cutting them at all.
    Skyscraper Sunflower sawed for drying

    Plant your veining plants at the base of them and allow them to simply crawl their way up.

However, If you need to utilize your stalks in a spot other than where they grew,  pull them up and clean them for drying.

 

  • Utilize a small saw to cut them at the base of the plant.  After removing several of them I found it easier, (at least on the larger plants ) to cut them first and deal with the roots later.

    Saw the stalks at the base of the plant
  • Prepare stalks for drying by removing any leaves, stems, flowers etc remaining on the plants.  Do  NOT cut the leaves or stems all the way to the stalk!  Allow about an inch of length to remain.
    Leave about an inch of the stem on your stalks while cleaning

    This sounds odd; however, once dry this tip hardens, and provides great handles for string, twine or rope.

  • Drying is very important.  Okra stalks were harder to dry.  I lost several to mold while attempting to dry them over the fall and winter season.  The weather was too cold and wet.   Sunflower stalks dried much faster and easier with less loss.   As such if your planning on using Okra it’s best to grow them in the spring and use the summer sun to dry them with.
  • Find a place that has full sun and keep them off the ground.   An arbor can provide the perfect spot!
    Sunflower stalks drying on the arbor

  • Sunflower stalks took about 45 days to fully dry.  At that point they were ready for the garden.
  • For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together.  It’s also helpful to dig out the area the  tepees will fill prior to tying them up.

    Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!

You can find Sunflower and Okra stalks all over my beds.  The larger stalks were used for zucchini and Gourds

Zucchini took up lots of space before the stalks.
Stalks in place, Zucchini now off the ground!
Underestimated the weight of the gourds! Vines were hanging low.
Larger Stalks held the weight lifting them above the plants below them
Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!
Smaller stalks make perfect bean or cantaloupe tepees.

Overall I have been very satisfied with the beauty and versatility these wonderful plants add to a garden.  Once your flowers are gone, before you throw them out, look around your area and make sure there is not a place their stalks are needed!   Here is a quick video to cover a bit of the content on this article!

Accompanying Content

 

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