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Using Sunflower Stalks in Your Garden!

If you’re a Gardner like me you’re always looking for ways to re-use!   One spends so much time and money on their gardens anyway.  Why not find ways to utilize the plants they grow, (outside of the obvious food of course)!  This was my thought when I started investigating using Sunflower or Okra stalks in my vegetable beds.   I mean Sunflowers are just a beautiful addition to any garden and I plant them everywhere!
Skyscrapers along the back
Mammoth Sunflowers by the Arbor
Skyscrapers Around the Pond
Corn and sunflowers

What really grabbed my attention was the size of them.   Some of these plants grow so tall and the stalks are so large that it just seemed right to use them in the gardens if possible.  As a result, over the last season, I have been testing out both sunflower and okra stalks as tepees and as slat holders in my space.  Here are some tips I have learned on reusing these giant plants.

Tips on using Sunflower and Okra Stalks

  • The stalks of the skyscraper sunflowers can range from three to four inches around at the largest point.  Some even get as high as fifteen feet.  These can make beautiful natural poles for beans etc. As such, if they are in the right spot you may consider not cutting them at all.
    Skyscraper Sunflower sawed for drying

    Plant your veining plants at the base of them and allow them to simply crawl their way up.

However, If you need to utilize your stalks in a spot other than where they grew,  pull them up and clean them for drying.

 

  • Utilize a small saw to cut them at the base of the plant.  After removing several of them I found it easier, (at least on the larger plants ) to cut them first and deal with the roots later.

    Saw the stalks at the base of the plant
  • Prepare stalks for drying by removing any leaves, stems, flowers etc remaining on the plants.  Do  NOT cut the leaves or stems all the way to the stalk!  Allow about an inch of length to remain.
    Leave about an inch of the stem on your stalks while cleaning

    This sounds odd; however, once dry this tip hardens, and provides great handles for string, twine or rope.

  • Drying is very important.  Okra stalks were harder to dry.  I lost several to mold while attempting to dry them over the fall and winter season.  The weather was too cold and wet.   Sunflower stalks dried much faster and easier with less loss.   As such if your planning on using Okra it’s best to grow them in the spring and use the summer sun to dry them with.
  • Find a place that has full sun and keep them off the ground.   An arbor can provide the perfect spot!
    Sunflower stalks drying on the arbor

  • Sunflower stalks took about 45 days to fully dry.  At that point they were ready for the garden.
  • For tepees utilize heavy garden twine to tie the stalks together; or, twists that are stable enough to hold them together.  It’s also helpful to dig out the area the  tepees will fill prior to tying them up.

    Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!

You can find Sunflower and Okra stalks all over my beds.  The larger stalks were used for zucchini and Gourds

Zucchini took up lots of space before the stalks.
Stalks in place, Zucchini now off the ground!
Underestimated the weight of the gourds! Vines were hanging low.
Larger Stalks held the weight lifting them above the plants below them
Once more gourd pic because it’s just cool!
Smaller stalks make perfect bean or cantaloupe tepees.

Overall I have been very satisfied with the beauty and versatility these wonderful plants add to a garden.  Once your flowers are gone, before you throw them out, look around your area and make sure there is not a place their stalks are needed!   Here is a quick video to cover a bit of the content on this article!

Accompanying Content

 

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Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers

The Skyscraper Sunflower is just one of the funnest sunflowers to grow! It is SO large, so tall and so bright that I do believe every Bee in the nation can see it!  Or at least it seems that way as they all fight for space across its giant Yellow flowers.

About Skyscraper Sunflowers

The Skyscraper sunflower earns its name as it is one of the tallest sunflowers there is to grow!  This baby here grew fifteen feet high and was actually slightly taller than the roof of my house! As a result, you can see from the photo above the flower head was a good thirteen inches across.  Not only are the flowers beautiful the drying stage and the seeds are beautiful as well.

Skyscrapers also produce the largest sunflower seeds making them the best to eat! Their colors range from bright white with gray stripes to light and dark grays and their seed heads are just amazing to look at!

Tips on Growing Skyscraper Sunflowers

  • Skyscrapers grow best in zones 3-9 and need full sun all day long if possible.
  • SF Home Gates recommends tilling the soil to around two feet deep in prep for these giants.  That may be the best for sure as their root systems are solid.  However, I will be honest I did not till more than 10 inches and they still grew well.
  • Sunflowers like well-drained soil, no water should be standing as it will cause root rot.
  • Sow seeds directly in the ground after all danger of frost.  Seeds can take approximately 10 days to germinate.
  • Water deeply two times a week rather than short bursts of watering each day. This will help your sunflowers grow deeper root systems preparing them for the heat.  You can see more about watering in the article,  "Helping Plants Survive the Heat"
  • These plants are large so give them room to spread.  Plant 2-3 seeds per section approximately 18-24 inches apart.  Thin to the strongest plant in the grouping once established.

  • Plants should mature in approximately 60-75 days.
  • Use fish emulsion once a month on these giants!

Challenges with Skyscrapers Sunflowers

  • Aphids love sunflowers!  This is actually what makes them such a good companion plant as I swear they will go there before your other plants. Be on the look out for them under their giant leaves and act quickly or they will soon look like this!
  • Ants will often congregate around sunflowers you can sprinkle DE at the base of the plants to avoid this.
  • Sunflower Months of course are one of the largest predators as they actively seek sunflowers to lay their eggs in.  Read about managing sunflower moths in The Article "The Sunflower Moth"

Companion Plants

  • Squash
  • Beans
  • Corn
  • Cabbage
  • Cucumbers
  • Peppers
  • Tomatoes

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Growing and Caring for Garlic Chives

Garlic Chives are my favorite herb to grow; and, it's not because of the culinary uses, although those are amazing too.  It's singularly because of the beautiful white flowers that sit on long sturdy stems from around July to October.  It's no wonder I received so many requests to confirm what these lovely flowers where when posting some of their pictures!

About Garlic Chives

Garlic chives, sometimes called Chinese chives, are a part of the Allium family and are similar to onion chives.  You can certainly see the family resemblance if you look at the grassy leaves and rounded flower tops.  However, onion chives have more of a purple flower with rounder hollow chive leaves.  Garlic chives on the other hand have dark green flat shiny leaves and brilliantly white flowers.

Tips for Growing Garlic Chives

  • Garlic chives are perennials that can be grown up to Zone 3 and planted in spring either from their seeds (which there is plenty of) or from separation of their root base.
  • Although garlic chives are very hardy, they are most week when young.  They have very tiny tender leaves that are easy to mistake for grass or weeds if growing in an area that is not established for chives.
    60 day old chives

    As such, if growing from seed it's best to start them in planters and move them to their permanent home at around 30 days old.  Or, be strategic in where you plant them so you recognize them when the seedlings start to grow.

  • Chives can grow in full sun. By full sun I mean all day in some of the hottest areas, even those crazy southern states.   They can also do well in shade, on a patio in a pot or under a tree.  They won't however produce as many flowers.
  • Although chives can take the heat and are drought tolerant they do best (grow the largest with the most flowers) with a moderately moist soil.
  • Garlic chives flowers  give their best show after they have established their roots for a season and improve as they get older!  These chives you see here are four years old!  They are quite happy with large mounds of chives and many flowers!

Things to Consider When Growing Chives

Managing the Seeds

Garlic chives make a beautiful addition to a boarder or as you see here growing in front of taller plants.  Gardeners however, need to be aware of their seeds!   Each one of the individual flowers will form a seed pod.  

Start of a seed pod on Garlic Chive flowers.

In all honesty the seed stage of the Garlic Chive is quite beautiful.    Flowers will stay on the stems for at least thirty days while the seeds form and the flowers dry out.  There will be many many seeds and they will propagate themselves where ever they fall.   However, what is left behind on the plant is dried pods that make very interesting dried flower arrangements.  When going through the seed stage, to avoid issues, one should place their plants where they either do not care where the seeds fall, or simply cut the flowers and take them in to enjoy.

Companion planting with Garlic Chives

Planting garlic chives in your garden adds both beauty and sensibility as they are a natural deterrent for insects!  Gardening Know How  (one of my favorite sites) even reports they deter black spot on roses and scabs on apples.  I actually have them growing under my apple tree!      Honestly there are chives growing in multiple places around my yard.   In addition as you can see from the short video below the bees absolutely flock to these flowers. so if your planning a fall garden, having garlic chives blooming should be a must in the drive for strong pollination!

Some key plants that benefit particularly well from chives are:

  • Carrots
  • Grapes
  • Roses
  • Tomatoes
  • Corn
  • Okra
  • Squash
  • Peppers

It is said to be an issue to grow garlic with peas and onions.  I grew my garlic chives within two feet of peas this year and found no issue.  This however may be because the garlic chive does not have the traditional bulb that  garlic has.   Unfortunately, one season does not make a trend as such I will be testing these combinations out some more.

Uses for Garlic Chives

  • Both the flowers and the chives themselves can be eaten.
  • Place chives or the flowers in salads.
  • Use chives for stews or to season meats while cooking them.   I love clipping long strands of chives, placing them on the grill and laying the meats on top of them.  The smell is amazing!
  • Here is a quick video on growing chives!

 

Growing and Planning for Garlic Chives

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Growing Zinnias!

About Zinnias

Enjoying My Zinnias

I find it hard sometimes to actually say how enjoyable Zinnias are.  They are one of the only flowers that is simultaneously wild and controlled!  One can clearly envision them sprawling across the dry grasslands of South America, growing in an urban garden or, in a planter on ones patio!  Regardless of where their placed growing zinnias, at least for me, is a must in my space! Zinnias come in a rainbow of colors promising summer long beauty and are almost maintenance free. And, as far as pollinators go I'll steal from Kevin Costner’s “Field of Dreams,” and say if you plant them they will come!

How to Grow Zinnias

Zinnias are one of the easiest annual plants to grow.  They do well in full sun 6 or more hours and even hot southern states can trust them to survive.  There are several different kinds of Zinnias, tall from 4-5 feet or, dwarf for boarders and containers.

Tall Zinnias at about four feet.

With so many options every spot in your garden can have color.  Zinnias ideal soil is fertile and well drained; however, they need very little prep.   I honestly do not do much for the soil outside of compost.  I simply choose a spot with good sun, loosen it up and drop the seeds. They don't let me down!  In about 30 days I'll have that beautiful color.  Therefore, plant your Zinnias and then sit back, relax and watch them grow.

Tips for Growing Zinnias

  • Plant Zinnia seeds when temperatures are above 50 degrees with no risk of frost.  Many sites recommend spacing of twelve inches, however I simply sprinkle their seeds randomly in a spot and thin them as they begin to grow.
  • Zinnias are not a good transplant flower. As such, plant them where you wish them to live.  If they must be started early ensure a nice size seeding pot and move them before they’re root bound.
  • Cut spent flower heads often. Cleaning the flowers ensures new flowers all summer long. Drop the seeds if they are in a place you wish them to return year after year or store them for replanting.
  • Zinnias are exceptional cut flowers lasting weeks on your table.
  • This flower can take the heat! However, they do like moist well drained soil. If you have extremely high temp days plan to water them daily during that time or locate in a part shade spot.
  • Zinnias sometimes shed their leaves from the bottom up.  This is caused from high temperature stress or by watering the leaves on the bottom of the plants.  If this occurs simply remove the lower leaves that have browned.
  • Water Zinnias from the bottom only!  They can be prone to powdery mildew and getting their leaves wet expounds this issue. Use soaker hoses or drip hoses or just make sure your holding your sprinkler handle at the ground level.
  • If you have selected tall zinnias don’t underestimate their size. Plan your space knowing how wide and tall they will be (up to five feet tall and two or more feet across).

Zinnias grow fast allowing  fearless experimentation for first time gardeners.  Therefore, don’t be afraid to place them throughout your beds.  

Zinnias as a Companion Plant

  • Zinnias are companion plants for ANY vegetable garden. They are guaranteed to bring the pollinators.  Bees and butterflies constantly fly around them so, if you need pollination they’re a must.
  • Zinnias attract wasps which are beneficial natural enemies to many non beneficial bugs.
  • They attract hummingbirds which eat white flies an enemy of tomatoes, cucumbers and potatoes. And let's just all take a moment to agree hummingbirds are cool.

Zinnias ability to draw pollinators is so good for your space, and the flowers are so beautiful that a small video is really the best way to show you this awesome flower.

Do you grow Zinnias in your garden?  What tips do you have to share?

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One Red Pepper in the Making
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Epsom Salt Once a Month! – Quick hit!

Using Epsom salt in your garden once a month is the easiest way to keep your plants healthy!  Epsom is also one of the cheaper forms of fertilizer you can use.  As such, make Epsom a part of your garden regimen and use it monthly! 

What is Epsom Salt?

Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate and both (magnesium and sulfate) are needed for your plants to thrive.  Magnesium helps with photosynthesis, increases your seeds germination rate and reduces shock when transplanting seedlings into your garden.  Sulfate helps with root growth and the overall strength of your plant.  Both enable your soil to maintain its health, providing a boost of nutrients in both your gardens and your potted plants. 

What plants should use Epsom?

Epsom can be used on almost all plants.  Plants like cabbage, onions and broccoli will actually have a  sweeter flavor with the use of Epsom.  Tomatoes, peppers and roses need it even more and will grow stronger with darker leaves and better flower production if used regularly.  Cole crops, squash, flowers and most other vegetables can also benefit from Epsom. 

How do I use Epsom Salt?

Epsom salt can be used as a foliage spray or placed directly in the soil.   I personally prefer the soil as it is only required monthly and it's easy to add it in the garden.  However, I have used the foliage spray when my plants get larger and I have more to feed.

  • Foliage: A good rule of thumb when using Epsom as a spray for your foliage is 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Spray this mix on your plants leaves every two weeks.
  • Soil:  If using Epsom in the soil use 1 tablespoon per foot of plant height around the base of the plant and work it into the soil with your hands or a trowel once a month.
  • Potted plants: 2 tablespoons in one gallon of water and use this to water your plants with one time per month.
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Squash Vine Borer – Enemy Number 1 of Cucurbita’s

If you love growing squash then plan for this insect; because the squash vine borer moth is a bad one! There is nothing worse then walking around your garden and seeing your beautiful zucchini or summer squash healthy and strong and returning the next day to find it wilted and gone; and, that is about how fast it seems to happen! As such, anyone planning to grow plants in the squash family needs to be aware  of the Melittia cucurbitae moth, also known as the squash vine borer! This ensures you have a chance of stopping these moths from destroying your plants or at least lets you know what they look like so you can just beat them to death when you see them ha!   

About

Native to North America the  squash vine borer could actually be confused with a beneficial insect.  After all, unlike most moths,  it comes out in the day and flies with very quick bee like movements.  It has a bright orange and red body that I could almost say is pretty.  However, after years of fighting these suckers I firmly believe their color has one purpose, so you see them and know that evil is upon you!  These borer moths love squash, zucchini, pumpkins, and gourds all of which I am growing in my garden!  I think it is safe to say that I pretty much hate them; yet, as you can see from this quick video the borer does not care, it still loves my garden!

Squash vine borers will grow in a brown cocoon in your soil, living there through the winter. They emerge in the summer months and fly around laying their eggs on your food!  Larvae hatch within 7 to 14 days and proceed to bore their way into the hollow stems of your plants where they eat them from the inside out for another 14 to 28 days. If you have missed the egg stage, you may also see the small white worms with a black head on your stalks. These worms do not stay small long.

Tips

There are several organic things you can do to manage the squash vine borer.

  • Look for the eggs of the borer; and look for them often especially during their season, this will help you stop the damage before it begins! Eggs can be found on the underside of the leaves in clusters and can also be found on their own on the stems of the plants.  I have read some things that say they are at the base of the stems, they are! These moths will place their eggs wherever they land so they can also be found at the top and the middle and everywhere in between!

If the eggs are found remove them. Wipe them off with a damp washcloth, your fingernail, a butter knife or the edge of scissors etc. Also Look for damage from the worms. They can be little small holes with sawdust like residue around the wound or large holes in the major vine area of the plant. 

  • For the smaller stem holes use a pointed object to dig out the hole some.    Place your sprayer on the hole and fill the stem up with either Neem Oil mix or BT.  I like to tell them to just try and swim out of that while I am filling it up!
  • For larger holes if you can see the worm remove it or stab it and leave it there.  If you cannot see it, use the same method and fill the hole. Worms will ingest the Neem or BT mix and die in the vine or stem. Cover any of the large holes in the vine with fresh compost so they can heal and continue growing.

Sprinkling wood ashes on the stems along with Diatomaceous Earth (DE),  black pepper around the plants or growing radishes near them has also been reported as a deterrent for the moths.  I personally have not tried the ashes or pepper, I do use DE and I have had luck with radishes as a companion plant!  Crop covers are also an option with manual pollination of your plants.  I don't prefer this method.

It's even more important when growing squash to till your soil in the spring and the winter to remove the overwintering cocoons.  Also, strictly follow the rules of rotation and attempt to never place your plants in the same spot two years in a row. Last but not least, do NOT put your spent squash in your compost; if possible you should actually burn it.  If you can't burn it place the leaves and stems in a plastic bag and leave them in the sun.  Don't feel bad about any evil laughs that slip out as you imagine the slow death of any borers trapped in the bag!

My best luck has been with the "look for eggs and spray inside the stems method" if I miss them.  What has worked for you in protecting your plants from this enemy?  Do you have some tips to share?  If so leave us a message we would love to hear them!

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