Author: Oma

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Milk and Wine Crinum Lily

The Crinum Lilly is just a classic beauty! It’s long showy leaves and large  heavily scented flowers of milky white and wine make it one of my favorite bulbs.   It bottom line is next to impossible to kill.  It is also one of the few flowers that can do as well in a partially shaded area or a full sunny spot.  And even better, the Milk and Wine Lily is the first to bloom each summer and continues to bloom almost all season long.

Growing Crinum Lilies

The giant Crinum Lily is a member of the Amaryllis family and best grown in zones  6 and up as a perennial.  Its bulbs can get very large and they don’t like to be moved.  Not that one can’t move them.  That is actually one of the reasons the Crinum Lilly runs a bit higher in price than most bulbs. The large main bulb will form many smaller bulbs around their giant center giving the owner plenty of plants for moving around their yard if one wants to do so.   However,  once the Crinum has a home it loves, it will for sure grab hold and want to stay making it one of the tougher bulbs to pull up.

Tips 

  • Plant your Lily in the spring with the Bulb right below the surface.  It will dig down as it grows.
  • Keep the soil moderately moist until it is established. Once established it will take most weather.  I personally water my established bulbs only once a week even in extremely hot temperatures

  • The Milk and Wine Lily will produce long tall stems that hold up to a dozen flowers each.  The weight of one stem gets heavier as the flowers bloom lending at times to the need for staking.
  • Purchase a few of the 24 – 36 inch plant stakes with the loop at the top.   Then, place about 5 of them in the ground around the greenery and just leave them there.  As the stems start to appear just grab one, loop the stem through it and walk off.  Easy peasy!
  • Scotts offers a package of 24 Scott 36″ plant props for around 30 bucks.  I purchased a pack three years ago and have not purchased any since then.  I just move them from plant to plant as I need them.
  • Crinum Lily’s can get very large as they mature. As a result, their greenery or their flowers can sometimes look shabby.  An easy way to take care of the greenery is simply to trim it back.  They clip easily with shears almost like a shrub making the leaves very tidy and nice looking with the tall flowers sitting atop them.
  • To maintain beauty on the flowers snap the wilting flower off the head as they wilt leaving only the remaining fresh flowers on the stem.  This is simple to do as one is walking by the plant.
  • There is nothing like the smell of the Milk and Wine Crinum Lily.  Its fragrance will fill an area.  As such, place it in a spot by a window or patio  so on those hot summer days that fragrance can be enjoyed with company and a glass of lemon aid, wine or a cold beer.

The Milk and Wine Crinum Lily’s beauty,  whimsical leaves, bright flowers and lovely fragrance will make one feel as if they stepped onto an old southern homestead.  In addition, their greenery offers a nice texture to areas around houses or in corners even when flowers are not yet in bloom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Using Corn Stalks in your Garden

Using dried corn leaves for mulch

How do you use your corn stalks? I know several of you across the globe from me in places like Australia are gaining momentum and starting to hit your summer months in what is my winter! That means if you have planted corn your close to harvesting those babies and will be left with rows of corn stalks, leaves and husks. Those of you in the states like me in January are planning for your corn beds. As your seasons progress keep in mind some of the benefits of the corn stalks and leaves.

To Compost or Not to Compost

I used to throw all of the entire plant in the composter.  However, over the last few seasons I have started composting the husks as soon as I peel my corn and using the stalks and leaves real-time in my gardens as a natural wordless mulch!

Mulching your beds is great for moister retention and helps with water maintainance. However, using only wood mulch at times can make it hard to get into the dirt. Personally, I like to be able to easily move my soil.  In addition, if you’re in an area prone to termites and your beds are around your house, using wood mulch that will consistently be wet or moist may not be the best thing for your home.

Using your corn stalks in your beds

There are so many alternatives to using only wood. Your gardens plants can make some amazing mulch especially plants like asparagus and corn. Consider allowing your stalks a bit of time to die down after your corn is harvested. Let them stand until they have lost some of their green. You can still plant below them as they start to die. Leaving  them in the soil for a bit actually looks cool! More so however it helps return some of those used nutrients back to the ground.

Once your plants have lost some of their green lift them from the beds and chop them into small pieces. They will decompose faster this way. Lay them around your plants as you would mulch; or, till them into your beds. Both of these methods will help put organic matter back into you soil!1

 

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Step 2 of a Successful Garden: Soil Assessments

The health of the soil in ones garden is as important as the foundation of their home! As such, once someone has decided where they want to place a new bed, or even if they are using existing beds over and over again each season, an assessment of the soil should be completed. There are so many things to look at when it comes to soil one might wonder where to start. Two  primary options when determining the validity of your soils are:

Having your soil tested.

This process can take up to two weeks.  Stick around and I’ll share the ins and out of this as I go through a soil test for my beds in spring.

Performing a self assessment of your soil.

Self assessments are what I have used through the majority of my gardening life.  One does learn over time to look for specific signs that will help them determine the health of their soil. However, self assessments can be risky for new gardeners unless they have a good guideline on what to look for.  Luckily there is a very structured process one can follow that was created by Oregon State University to determine the health of a garden’s soil.

Oregon State  recommends five assessments a year covering 10 steps ranging from soil to water to plant life. We will review each of these steps in a series of articles and how to videos over the next few months.  However, let’s kick off the bulk of the assessments by focusing first on soil health  and how to asses the texture and structure of your soil

Soil Assessment 1: Texture and Structure

The texture and structure of the soil is how it is put together, how it moves, handles water, and allows plants to grow.  As such, soil texture is paramount to ones garden. Soil should have a crumb structure and be friable, (easily crumbled). It should also have good porosity so air, water, roots and organisms can  move freely within the soil. This is a balance game though. Why? Because soil that is too friable probably has poor aggregate stability, it won’t hold structure well or retain water well. If on the other hand it does not break apart at all, it’s too hard, cemented or full of clay there will be issues; organisms will not be able to move through the soil.

Many things can impact the quality of your soil.  Day-to-day life, weather, erosion, what and when one plant, as well as tilling or not tilling can impact positively or negatively a gardens soils texture.  

Completing the Assessment

First off ensure your attempting your assessment when your soil is neither too dry, too wet or frozen.  You will need a shovel (or tool to dig into the soil with) and a spray bottle with water.  

  • Choose a few areas of the garden that is considered representative. 
  • Dig a 6 – 10 inch deep area
    • Scoop up a portion of soil that is about the size and volume of a can of soup.  
    • Review the soil, are their crumbs, clumps of clay, granular soil only?  
    • If there are crumbs present squeeze them and note the amount of pressure it takes to collapse them while dry.  

  • Gently wet some of the crumbs and try to collapse them while wet.  Does this require more or less pressure?
  •  

Assessing the Findings

    • Lowest health:  Soil has powdery, massive or flaky structure without any visible crumbs.
    • Moderate Health:  There are some crumbs present yet they break under slight pressure.  They are also far more fragile when wet.
    • Best Health: Soil  is friable and crumbly! It has a clear crumb structure that maintains its shape under pressure even when wet and can also still be broken between one’s fingers!

Four easy steps to improve least desirable results

1: Allow plants to decompose naturally if possible. 

Late summer flowers naturally dying down

Allowing plants to decompose naturally is important to an organic garden. Not only that but if done correctly adds beauty to a garden and another season of life.  Decomposition promotes organic growth in the soil. On the other hand leaving soil completely empty for long periods of time can drive erosion or overly compacted soil making it hard to manage or work through.  

2: Have clear walkways through your garden!  

Stone Path for getting through the center of the garden

This is one of the simplest things to do. Consider what one weighs.  Consistently walking through the beds one is planting in can compact the soil to the point that it is no longer friable.  Therefore, create beauty and character in your garden while also respecting your soil by laying small stepping-stones through your beds.  Create committed walk ways such as my path directly down the middle of my large beds here. Plan for clearly laid out walkways between plants.  Giving enough room to walk through for harvest but not touching the base soil the plants are thriving in.

3: Add organic matter to your soil!  

Using dried corn leaves for mulch

Organic matter promotes organisms in your garden that break your soil down,  It also promotes drainage and worms. Here are some cheap and easy ways to add organic matter to your soil.

  • Using eggshells in your garden! 
  • Coffee grinds in your garden!
  • Add orange or banana peals
  • Utilize Peat or Coconut Moss
  • Save dried Leaves
  • Use corn leaves for mulch
  • Add compost annually
  • Grow companion plants that support your main crops but easily break down in your garden all summer long.  Borage, Comfrey, Yarrow, Marigolds

4: Use cover crops in the winter.

Garlic in Winter

In my experience the best cover crops are winter garden plants such as snow peas, cabbage, sweet peas, lettuce, radishes, garlic and other plants that love the cold.

These plants not only keep your soil busy but enable you to continue to eat the freshest foods available over your winter months. Other options are grassy plants, that die down easily preventing the need for heavy tilling such as alfalfa or buckwheat,

Want to see more?

Register with Oma’s Gardens and get notified as these and more steps are completed surrounding soil assessments over the next few weeks:

  • Compacted Layers of Soil: Garden Soil Assessment 2
  • Soil Work-ability: Garden Soil Assessment 3
  • Soil Organisms: Garden Soil Assessment 4
  • Earthworm Abundance: Garden Soil Assessment 5
  • Water Infiltration and Availability: Garden Soil Assessment 6

Other Related Articles

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Growing Tomatillos

When one mentions tomatillos to me  the first thing I think of is green salsa! Spicy green salsa at that or slightly brownish orange salsa!  The color that’s created when one mixes tomatillos with their cousin the red tomato. The second thing that comes to mind is the signature lantern or balloon like husks they grown in.  This is one characteristic that is so unique to the tomatillo and also makes them such an interesting plant to grow in your garden.

About Tomatillos

Tomatillos are native to Central America. According to Bonnie Plants they can be found growing wild in fields along with corn and beans.  This is not surprising actually because if you have ever grown them they tend to act like a wild plant.  Meaning they attempt to sprawl everywhere. They also grow very tall reaching heights of five feet or more and at least four or more feet wide. As such if your planning to grow tomatillos plan for space as they take lots of room!

 

Growing Tomatillos

Tomatillos can be grown with similar conditions as tomatoes. However, Unlike tomatoes who can be very finicky and sometimes hard to grow, the tomatillo, if grown correctly will produce abundantly allowing for many of the amazing Mexican food dishes we all love and plenty of canning. There are a few things to keep in mind when growing these green babies:

  • You can’t grow just one!  And that is a literal statement! One of the more interesting requirements for tomatillos is they must cross pollinate. As a result one must always grow a minimum of two. I personally prefer four to six in my beds.
  • Plan for their size! Tomatillos are big plants! They have long arms that will fill with husks and get heavier as the fruit matures. They require sturdy cages.
  • Full sun with shade! Tomatillos can take the heat fairly well for tomatoes; however like their cousins they flower and produce the most fruit in 80-90 degree weather. As such, plant them in an area where they can obtain some shade in the hottest parts of the day during high heat.
  • Keep them healthy in the hot summer months and you will have fruit both spring and fall.
  • Tomatillos require heavy pollination and as mentioned before cross pollination. As such plant them with other flowers that will be sure to draw the bees!

Planting

  • Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before the last frost unless you are in a zone that allows for warm nights.  
  • I prefer to plant in sets of two with about 6 inches between them and a minimum of three sets. Space sets at least 4 feet apart.   This works with one plant as well just space them apart the same as a set.
  • Tomatillos like well-drained rich soil and full sun.  
  • Harvest your tomatillos when the husks are well filled and the fruit is a bright green.  
  • If the fruit starts to turn a lighter yellow they are at risk of becoming overripe!

 

Companion Plants

  • Basil (let some bloom!)
  • Parsley
  • Marigolds
  • Daisy’s
  • Zinnias
  • Onions
  • Garlic
  • Carrots
  • Artichokes

Plants that should not be grown with tomatillos due to cross pest action

  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Potatoes
  • Eggplants

 

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The Planning

Sometimes this is my favorite place to be. Right here in an empty dying bed. Against a fence line still in PJ’s with coffee and quite. The left over struggling plants at my feet and around me. The gardens not clean it’s not really alive but it is waiting! It’s waiting for me to decide what i want it to become. For the planning yet to happen! How i want it to look and smell and the colors i want it to show.

Impression

How many things in life do we get to mold that completely? Our children are probably the only other thing we have that much power to impress our thoughts upon. Even they however will take their own path. I suppose plants will too at times. You plan one thing and something else comes out of it! But.. like your children when it turns out right the garden is a wonder to behold! That’s what i can do here along this fence when the garden is dead; plan for the wonder. Plan for the beauty and the life an empty garden promises to bring! Find your fence line folks, happy Friday!

 

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Step One of a New Garden: Location, Location, Location!

So you read the Eight Steps to a Successful New Garden and want a bit more details!  Great!  This article covers in detail Step One of a New Garden: Location! It also covers each of the sub items one should consider when looking for a good location. So…. let’s get started!

Location, Location,  Location!

They say this in real estate and it applies for gardening as well! Wait.. not plants?  No.  Plants are important and one should have an idea of what their wanting to plant. Several of these steps somewhat work together and one will find themselves at times considering them all! However, the location plants will reside is more important.  Not dirt? No. Not dirt location!

In my humble experience location is the number one thing one must consider when starting a new bed.  Why? Simply put, how important is ones home to them?  The spot one is planting in will be the home to their plants.  The location selected for a garden will be where they live and thrive.   Just as humans look for a home that “feels” right,” ones garden will 100% define if plants “feel right” growing there.  And believe me you want your plants feeling right.

Another reason  to consider location first is it forces the advanced thought and planning needed in all future steps. especially planting and landscaping steps. One can modify their space once a location is established, to a point; however, some limitations cannot be modified.  As such, when looking at location options, consider these sub items before making a final decision:

A: What is the direction of the sun in relation to the potential location?  

The direction of the sun in relation to a garden is paramount.  My very first garden was a failure because I did not consider this in the vicinity of my location.  What happened? I selected a spot that faced west and then planted shade loving plants!  What, they were pretty? They looked so lovely there! Until, they burned from the west sun. 

The direction of the sun will not necessarily stop an individual from planting in said location.   It can however,  define the kinds of plants one can sustain in the area being considered.  It may limit ones options and require planning to overcome issues of too much or too little sun. 

My space for example would have been fine if I had understood the importance of the sun. Tall plants or objects placed around the shade loving babies I selected could have protected them. Therefore, when considering a location study the sun and make note of the following:

  •  Does the location face North, South, East or West?  
  • Make note of the sun’s intensity (is it full, partial or shade)?
  • Study how the sun looks in the morning at noon and in the evening and make note of the differences.

Doing this ensures by Steps two and three (Soil and Plants) there has been thought in regards to the sun and its power.  It also helps plan for Step 7 Watering!

B: Are structures near the potential location (s)?

Consider in advance what structures surround prospective locations!  For example my shade loving plants, where that west sun hit, set against a big brick 1house.  I may as well have set them in an oven. West sun hitting hot brick all day long?  Oh yeah it was fry time! Look for the following clues to impacts on the sun with your structures:

  • Does the location being considered sit next to a house, a barn, a shed, a building, a tree, shrubs or taller plants?  
  • In relation to sun (Consideration A) do said structures create shade at certain points of the day, make it hotter or completely blocking the sun? 

Structures can be your best friend or your worst enemy.   Some structures can enable the perfect balance of sun and shade. Giving morning or afternoon sun and offering protection in high heat or cold wind. They can also completely take the sun away limiting one to only plants that live in the shade.  As such, look at the structures around a potential location. Make note of said structures and their potential benefit to plants and use this information in the final location decision.   

C: Are you using an existing bed or will you build from scratch?  

The final thing to consider is the positive or negative impacts of using an existing bed versus building from scratch. Using an existing space does not always mean your garden efforts will be easier.

  • On the positive side: a preexisting bed may mean less clean up. Perhaps an easier effort at removing deeply established grass.  It could also mean the soil has been rotated at some point, perhaps adding simplicity to revitalization of the area.  
  • On the negative side: a preexisting bed could mean additional work. Perhaps the removal of rocks from a once rock garden. The removal of heavily established shrubs, trees or sedentary objects such as water features arbors or other items to allow for sun etc.

Take time to decide if a new garden or an existing garden would offer more benefits and capture the impacts to the potential location. Capture the data gathered in this analysis stage, write it down and make a preliminary decision!

Here is a quick Video on putting Step 1 to use. The goal is to find a spot that gives the MOST options for planting and to know in advance what limitations one will have.   

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Eight Steps to a Successful New Garden

So you want to start a new garden?  Outstanding! I like to say, “planting a garden is the first step to true serenity.”   It can also however, be the first step to frustration and anger if one does not plan appropriately.  So where do you start; there are so many things to consider when planting a garden? For example: What plants do you want?  Do you want flowers or vegetables or trees or all? Are you doing landscaping for your front yard or planting for your backyard?  Do you want a personal retreat or a public oasis? Maybe you’re just trying fix that corner that’s been bothering you for years!  Regardless, you wish there was a checklist you could look at to guide you through this process. Well… here you go; eight steps to a new garden!

Garden Steps Checklist

Below is a simple checklist that can be used covering 8 steps to a successful new garden space.  

1:     Location, Location, Location! 

Look closely at the location you’re considering. Always ask the following questions when deciding where a new garden location will be:

  • What is the direction of the sun in relation to the potential location?
  • Are there Structures Around the area?
  • Is there an existing garden in the location or will this be a new garden?

2:     Soil; the foundation of your new garden! 

The health of your soil is as important as the foundation on your home!

  • Work this item in combination with Step 3 as you may have to consistently modify as you determine the types of plants preferred!
  • What is the texture of the soil?
  • What is the drainage of your soil like?
  • What amendments do you need? 

3:     What plants work best in the selected location?

If your primary is veggies plan for time to take care of them!

  • How much time is available for plant maintenance?
  • Will the plants wanted still work in this spot?
  • Tie 1 and 2 together! Is there a need to modify original thoughts on the location or soil?

4:     Landscape

  • Based on 3, What design will support the space?
  • Allowing for proper drainage (Use knowledge from Step 2 for landscaping needs surrounding drainage)
  • Is there a need to add trees or other tall plants to support primary plants?

5:     Planting Time  A: !

Transplanting or Sowing which is best?

  • Transplanting 
  • Direct Sowing

6:     Planting Time B!: 

  • Structures Needed for Plant Support

7:     Watering! 

8:     On-Going Maintenance

  • Trimming
  • Weeding
  • Harvesting

Did this checklist help you? 

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Sunrise in the Garden

There are few pathways to serenity in life more powerful than sunrise in the garden.  To wake up with the sun, to see life start to open. The dew on the grass, the sound of the birds even the smell is different in the morning. It's as if everything has that "new car smell." Like the world has been given a second chance with the rising of the sun.

 

The same can be said at sunset in a garden. Perhaps because the world is preparing for sleep.  The sun settles down and the heat begins to dissipate.  In contrast to the morning no longer is that new car smell present. It has been replaced with the smell of a loved home, one that has been visited often.  Even the birds seem slower. It's as if the garden is telling us regardless of how bad it was in the office, how tough it was with our children or how long that list of  "intended" things remains, put it away!  Building a garden gives a pathway to that beginning and end; and, a place to witness these moments in private.

George Bernard Shaw said "the best place to seek God is in a garden.. you can dig for him there."  Regardless of ones belief, there is never a moment these words hold more truth then when witnessing  a sunrise or a sunset. Especially when witnessed from the garden.  Life is simply enhanced at this time.  Why else would there be so many artists, photographers,  architects and even gardeners that plan their work  around these two moments, sunrise and sunset?  Because there is power in the light!

Many  a person have posted on social media "each morning I walk through my garden before I head to the office."  A garden provides a direct path to what these two stages in our day really mean.  A path enabling one to open their minds to the fact that they must rise, refresh and prepare for what is before them. And than... to put it away.

So in all things in life, find your garden; revel in the moment a garden provides! That moment to catch a sunrise and rest in a sunset.  It doesn't matter if it's  a single potted plant, a quarter of an acre,  a plot of land in an allotment or fields and fields of pastures make it your space! Make the garden yours and meet me there, at sunrise in the garden.

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Managing Powdery Mildew

Your walking around the garden looking at the all the beauty and notice this white powder that looks like its floating across your leaves.   What is that?  Well if you have had lots of rain, lots of humidity or have plants growing in a tight spot then you are more than likely dealing with powdery mildew. 

Powdery Mildew showing up on my Gourds!

About Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease that actually has several different strains.  Figures it would want to ensure it is available to a wide variation of plants!  It is most active in temperatures that range from around 68 to 90 degrees nights being the cooler of the range.   This means one will find it more often in their spring and fall beds which is right where my issues are showing up!  It’s also more often to show up during heavy rainy periods with high humidity.

Because there are multiple strains you will not always find it spreading; however, if you have like families of plants together watch out.  It can take over quickly if not cared for.  For example if you plant your Cucurbita together (Squash, Pumpkin etc) what ever strain hits one will quickly spread to the next.

Powdery Mildew on my pumpkins which are growing right next to cucumbers

What is on your Zinnias (another plant that is susceptible) will not effect your roses It will however effect other plants that are members of the same composite family.  Powdery Mildew is air born so be careful when removing effected leaves and never place them in your compost.

Easy Tips for Managing Powdery Mildew

  • The most common recipe is Baking Soda(1 tbsp); Dish-washing soap (2 tsp) and one gallon of water.  Spray this on your plants when the sun is low so as not to burn them.  Baking soda can also be strong for some plants so test them one day and check them the next before full application.  Adjust the tbsp down accordingly to 1/2 tbsp if needed.
  • Neem Oil, the pure organic cold pressed oil not what is pre-mixed, is also great.  Mix 1 tsp in with your baking soda. You can also substitute Neem Oil at 2 tsp in place of baking powder.
  • Milk has been reported to help stop the growth of powdery mildew.  I have not tried this recipe. I plan to test it out this month with the issues I have going on right now. I will update on that result!  Mix is 60/40 with milk at 60%.

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